About a decade ago, I used to live in Evanston and would eat at Thai Sookdee occasionally, even though I was never really much of a fan. Much time had passed and finding myself in Evanston recently, I figured it was worth another try, especially considering that longevity is tough to come by in the restaurant business and it usually means something good. I hate to say it but I was thoroughly disappointed by our meal at Thai Sookdee. Aside from the tom kha and the very friendly service, I left our meal feeling very unsatisfied. I really have to question the claim on their menu that they are offering "authentic Thai cuisine," because that's not how it felt at all.
Appetizer selections were an odd lot, with only a few truly Thai offerings, like satay and spring roll. Even the Thai-style potsickers, which we did try, were something I'd never seen before at any Thai restaurant. They were comprised of relatively bland minced chicken and spinach, formed into a puck, dipped in batter and deep-fried. OTOH, egg rolls, shu mai, crab rangoon and gyoza -- all, more often associated with other Asian cuisines -- were available.
We ordered the "som tum," but we should have read the fine print. Curiously, Thai Sookdee's version is made with cabbage, not green papaya, and it was a complete miss. The texture, flavor and absorption properties of cabbage are nothing like green papaya and, as such, the dish played more like Thai cole slaw, made from a recipe in a women's magazine, than actual som tum. The sulfuric aroma of the cruciferous cabbage stepped all over the very essence of the dish.
As for entrees, we were not really pleased with them either. We considered ordering the whole red snapper but were told that it was frozen. So instead, we opted for a curry dish, the "original hot number two" with chicken. Here, the all white meat chicken was very dry and the flavor of the curry was muddy and lacking sharpness and compexity. Yes, there was some heat, which I appreciated but it was the only redeeming aspect of the dish. The 'seasonal vegetables' listed on the menu were broccoli and nothing else. Pad See Ewe with pork was probably the best of the 3 entrees we ordered but it was not without its problems. The meat was moist and the noodles had a great texture but the entire dish had a very strong scorched aroma, which really detracted from our enjoyment of it.
The worst of the entrees we tried was the Ka Prao with chicken. Here, the dish deviated in curious ways from just about every version I've ever had before. This dish is normally served dry, with what little 'sauce' there is being a by-product of the fast cooking process and the seared meat rendering out some juices. Here though, the dish was a big bowl of gloppy sauce, containing some pre-ground chicken that seemed to have never been seared at all. Again, the dish was spicy, hitting one big note, but ignoring all the more subtle notes that create the complexity, balance and depth that normally define Thai food for me. I'm not 100% sure but I'm guessing that this version (along with the aforementioned "som tum") lacked fish sauce, which just made it come off like a dumbed down version of the real thing.
Unfortunately, I think that longevity is the one thing Thai Sookdee has going for it but I personally am at a loss to explain it. I'd have to rate it in the bottom 3 of all the Thai food I've had in Chicagoland. Perhaps we ordered wrong and missed out on what they do best, but what we were served provided us with absolutely no incentive to return.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain