Somehow, in 30 years here (5 years in an office 2 blocks away) I've known all about LM without ever actually eating there. I tried once, but wasn't carrying cash, and that was it. Monday I finally made the pilgrimage. With all the recent controversy over whether Edgewater Grill has gone off a cliff, it was very nice to be sitting in the center of a well-oiled, quietly humming breakfast machine.
No revelations and no debunking to offer. It was just what I'd hoped. Without being absolutely transcendant, it was completely solid.
Corned beef hash was generously portioned, flavorful and (thank you, God) a nice small dice allowing flavors to actually mingle, rather than the all too common large chunks that just lie there next to each other never actually becoming a hash. (After being served I realized that my one mistake was not requesting the hash extra time on the grill to get some burnt edges. Next time.)
Hash browns were thin rounds as opposed to cubes, very nicely browned-to-burned on the edges and outer surfaces. Greek toast was perfectly golden, buttered with restraint (as opposed to soaked) and -- mirabile dictu -- actually warm.
I went crazy and ordered a piece of coffee cake (pecan) and it was satisfyingly rich and unhealthy tasting.
My waitress seemed genuinely, morning-brighteningly friendly. I read the entire paper, drank too much coffee, and felt very cozily at home with the low buzz of breakfast activity around me.
Small demerits: the yolks of my poached eggs got a bit cooked and the coffee refills were a tad slow in coming.
My only regret was that such a satisfying yet essentially simple breakfast should cost almost $15, and that it is so hard to find at all. (The religious tracts offered free at the register were a surprising note, but didn't intrude on my breakfast at all.)
Miscellaneous note: Just across the street from the Duncan Donuts and bus stop at Addison and Ravenswood a truly terrifying little lunch counter whose name (but not whose chili) I forget, has turned into something called (I think) Denir's Turkish fast food. The former place was truly like something you might have stumbled upon in the Bowery during the depression. I haven't been into the new business, but the sign promises felafel and other middle-eastern fare and suggests, perhaps, a nice little honest business.
"Strange how potent cheap music is."