My wife (the
Pad Sieu Princess, my respects to Vital) and I celebrated my birthday at
La Piazza tonight and were both pleased and filled by an inventive menu served fairly briskly but pleasantly over two hours. We arrived at 5:30 and were the only guests seated in the "loft" area over the entrance, right under the imaginatively painted ceiling. The early reservation time was recommended by the staff since we informed them in advance that we would be trying Chef Gaetano's tasting menu ($58 per person) - some of the freshest ingredients and most popular dishes can run out towards the end of the night, and the kitchen has more breathing room for care and inventiveness before the heat of the Friday night rush.
La Piazza is not a pretentious place, nor does it have the table accoutrements or staff-to-diner ratio of your Michelin-starred central city spots. Service and table presentation are not even as polished as Hemmingway's Bistro in Oak Park, another very fine restaurant (though in a less than perfect room that I hope is updated soon). However, everyone we encountered there cares deeply for the food, and most servers have tasted Gaetano's cooking or even have traveled with him - the focus there is the chef, and what the chef puts in your face. The service and table are just intermediaries. Our hostess for the evening was Jill, an Oak Parker who married an Italian and took a job there because of her fondness for the cuisine. She smiled knowingly upon reviewing our choice of the tasting menu and told us we'd need wheelbarrows to get home - she was quite correct.
The online menu states that the chef's choice is four courses. At many other places, this would mean four plates, plus an amuse or two. At La Piazza, this means seven generous appetizers (course one, delivered quickly over the first 15 minutes of the seating as each plate came out of the kitchen), three luxurious pastas (course two), two alarmingly large entrees (course three), three desserts (course four), cappuccino, and limoncello.
If you discount the fact that two of the appetizers came side by side, and that all three desserts were served on one gigantic terra cotta tile, there were 17 distinct dishes. Or count 13 plates plus the bread course, a meal in its own.
Many, many sea creatures died to bring us this meal. In order:
Bread: delicious homemade focaccia with a crisp crown and delicate honeycombed interior. Strong notes of tomato, garlic, and thyme (not oregano and rosemary, so standard everywhere else). Served with a small plate of chickpea puree with coarse black pepper and olive oil. A solid A.
1.
tempura calamari in home-ground sesame and white bean tahini, with lemon juice. I think there was also a touch of dark soy, since there was considerable color to the sauce and the only acid seemed to be the lemon (not balsamic vinegar). The tahini had a lovely, toasty sesame-oil flavor and the two large pieces of squid - tentacles gratefully included - were tender, crisp, and served piping hot from the pan. Grade: A
2.
beet carpaccio with a fried medallion of goat cheese. Raw yellow and red beets sliced paper thin, dressed lightly in vinegar, extremely earthy, offset perfectly by self-administered daubs of melty crumb-dusted cheese. Trying this one at home soon. Grade: B+
3.
eggplant involtini at plasma-like temperature. This tasted exactly like my Calabrian grandmother's eggplant parmesan - all bitterness leached out, good quality melted cheese, fresh breadcrumbs, no other detectable flavors. Delicious and nostalgia-invoking but fairly tame. Grade: B
4.
fried zucchini blossoms and green tomatoes. One large plate with two sets of appetizers served in a very piquant red pepper and tomato puree. The zucchini blossoms were stuffed with fresh, briny mozzarella and basil, and with their tempura coating were among the best deep-fried items I've ever encountered, including the
deep fried bacon baskets at the Prodigal Son, which burned down after a bring-anything-you-want-to-deep-fry night, true story. The green tomatoes were firm and slightly sour and very good with the sweet puree. Grade: A / B
5.
scallops with grapefruit. As Paco at New Rebozo down the street likes to say, "ohmygod." I don't even like scallops and these were spectacular - tender, buttery, no fishiness, that perfect seared exterior with the taste the night's well-seasoned grill, paired with sections of red grapefruit. This needs to make the menu permanently. Grade: A
6.
housemade ricotta and spinach. A generous dish of their home-made soft cheese baked over truffle-dressed spinach. A single spoonful of this would have been better at this point in the meal, but the flavor was undeniably great. The Princess loved this one. Grade: A-
7.
grilled octopus over arugula, fresh basil, bruschetta toast points, and marinated white beans. The star of the sea and the night, in my opinion. I spent two summers in northern Spain where they pull the pulpo right in off the beach and char it immediately on hot coals on the sand with garlic and lemon, and this tasted every bit as fresh, tender, and nutty. The accompanying bread-salad was a perfect mix of textures and fresh flavors. Already full, I didn't need any encouragement to continue to attack the remaining garnishes on this plate well into our next dishes. Grade: A+
8.
butternut squash gnocchi with truffle oil, tiny pencils of asparagus, and sauteed shallots. It's hard to find a gnocchi I don't like, but these were exceptional, and the PSP's favorite of the night. Plenty of gourdy flavor, respectfully little cheese. Grade: A
9.
anelli pasta with wild boar. Pasta and pig should be paired much more regularly. This also tasted to me like a hearty northern Spanish dish and brought wonderful memories flowing back. A rich gravy coated the ring-shaped handcut pasta, many of which encircled large porcini mushrooms. Over the top, a sprinkling of only slightly gamey shredded boar and olive oil. Somehow, I'm absolutely sure this would be my dog Fizzgig's favorite. Grade: A
10.
risotto with lobster and strawberries. I could never get away with serving this to a dinner crowd, but he can. It was like oatmeal gently boiled in butter with large, halved, perfectly-ripe strawberries on top, and then just as you're about to start your breakfast, a
magical crustacean-fairy comes and airlifts chunks of shrimp and lobster into your bowl. If that sounds like a delightful bonus to you, you'd be in heaven at La Piazza. It wins points here for both taste and imagination, but (gasp) needed salt or pepper to identify itself as an entree. Grade: B+
11.
broiled halibut with truffle butter on a bed of truffle-sauteed spinach with chopped wild mushrooms and french fried potato strings. This was a special on the regular menu and we heard that they were selling out quickly. Having seen ten plates to this point,
this was the first dish featuring rosemary. That's an accomplishment right there at any Italian restaurant, and tells you about the creativity and spectrum of flavors we experienced. Very high-quality ingredients, but I thought that the morning hash-brown aroma and crunch of the potato strings completely destroyed the balance of the dish, overwhelming the truffle and rosemary. I'm going to grade this one hard: C.
12.
chicken piccata on mashed potatoes and white beans. Probably the best chicken piccata I'll have, but a surprisingly pedestrian close to an otherwise inventive tasting. Boneless chicken breasts simply sauteed and well seasoned, but pale on pale accompaniments and wearyingly large portions at this stage. Roger Ebert would vacillate between four stars as chicken piccata goes (best for its category, like Shaun of the Dead for zombie flicks) and no stars within the context of the meal (unnecessary), and end up giving it two. I'll go with a C+.
13.
terra cotta dessert trio. The kitchen must have been optimistic as to our hypothesized total girth and
remaining innard space. A tablespoon each of rich citrus panna cotta topped with crystallized lemon rind and drizzled with olive oil would have been enough, but we then had the task of attacking a flower pot (replete with flower) of fresh whipped-creamy tiramisu and a pound of delicately spiced but over-rich pumpkin cheesecake. We didn't quite make it and were almost comatose when greeted by a red-from-the-kitchen Chef Di Benedetto. It was by this point 7:15 and the joint was jumping, and we were honored that he made the trip over and up, and addressed us graciously.
I complimented his octopus. He thanked us for our patronage and sent up some home-steeped limoncello. Grade: A+ (panna cotta), A- (tiramisu), B (cheesecake), A (chef).
Even given my entree grades, make no mistake - this was a magnificent birthday feast. While I would rather have seen smaller portions and slightly more unusual mainstays, I was heartened by the generosity and care given to each plate, and amused that a restaurant of this caliber asked if we wanted any unfinished portions wrapped, and let us walk out to the street with a recorked bottle of delicious falanghina. Our high expectations had been annihalated by the scallops, octopus, zucchini blossoms, and gnocchi, each of which were better than cousins experienced in Italy and Spain. My only hereto-unmentioned gripe was the pervasiveness of (albeit delicious) melted cheese in five of the dishes; we might have enjoyed the entrees more without the internal, eternal saganaki flame kindled by the appetizers. Looking back at other posts and reviews of this restaurant here and elsewhere, and the current menu, I was also quite pleased at the tricks Chef saved for the tasting menu - it seems like the kind of place where few repeats would be encountered even on visits relatively close together. Like Schwa's
quail-egg ravioli, La Piazza's squash gnocchi does seem to be one worthy constant.
Do not expect Moto's measured pace - dishes come out as they come up, quickly when things are slow, slowly when things are busy - but be confident you'll get the best the kitchen has to offer, with a full ladle of creativity by the chef. I note that a tapas tasting menu is also offered - currently $36 - and will come back to try that, and post for collective edification in a month or so. Don't think me too Vettelesque if I offer a "bravo" to Chef Gaetano and La Piazza.