Although my usual first answer to this question would be Cyrano's as the most consistent and most complete of the traditional bistro menus, dinner at Cafe Matou two weeks ago adds CM to that list of restaurants like Mon Ami Gabi and Le Bouchon that can turnout a very fine little steak a less than half Morton prices.
Of course the chef, Charlie Soucher, may have "cheated" a little by wrapping his hanger steak in bacon, but I just consider that good packaging.
Unfortunately the sweetbreads were off the menu, but overall a rich, sometimes old fashioned French preparation of a variety of dishes. Doubling your Lipitor may be necessary to deal with the richness of some preparations.
Nonetheless I think the best choice to deal with a French food "jones" is Cyranos. His menu will have more of the classics than anyone else, his preparations are basically classical but with a lighter touch, and all the rest of the experience will be traditionally French-aperitifs will be available in red and white, good bread with unsweetened butter will be quickly presented, wines are presented in bottles, half bottles, carafes, glasses, and an order of eau de vie or calvados will be greeted with several options not a glazed look.