I decided to hit Assi Plaza tonight, since nobody else is home. I figured if their food court isn't interesting, there's plenty of other chow in the neighborhood.
How does it stack up to H-Mart? Pretty well, except for atmosphere. I'd say it's about 2/3 of an H-Mart overall, and that applies pretty well to each department (meat may be pretty close). I didn't buy much, since I wasn't planning anything in particular, and had shopped recently, but I took some mental notes for future visits. Galangal? Check. Live Seafood? Yup -- didn't see fish, but lobster and a couple kinds of crab including dungeness. Panchan counter? Check -- self serve no less. That was kind of a theme, I noticed: self-serve bins of marinated meats, a large number of self-serve seafood items (about six different sizes of shrimp, including large head-ons for $2.99).
There seems to be a bit more coverage of southeast asia: more varieties of fish sauce, rice paper wraps, etc. I found wide, flat rice noodles, which I haven't seen since Di-Ho market in Morton Grove changed names (here comes a batch of pad si-ew tomorrow night).
Prices varied: the produce seemed cheap (3 huge oranges for $0.99 for instance), meat perhaps a little more than H-Mart. I didn't see prime shabu-shabu, but there was "blue ribbon quality" items at up to $17/lb, down to $2.99 "sliced beef" for bul go gi etc.
There's a sushi counter in the main store, kind of sparse at 6PM, but there are single nigiri for $.79, california rolls for $2.99, and a few other items. I grabbed a CA roll to eat later. There's also a dumpling counter, but it didn't look like they do carry out, and there's only two seats, and a line.
The food court has one Chinese stall that didn't look terribly appetizing, one Japanese place that did (more on that in a moment), and three Korean stalls with different items at each: one focused on soups, but otherwise it's hard to say what the dividing line was. I did notice very different transliterations than I'm used to (twae ji pol go gi instead of dowae ji gi, pi bim bap instead of bi bim bop). Lots of choices, but I didn't feel like experimenting so I went for a simple donkatsu at the Japanese stand (there's that spelling difference again). For $6.99, it's served with miso soup, rice, shredded cabbage topped with a seasoned mayo (DIY slaw, I guess), two sauce (tonkatsu and something a little mustardy), pickled ginger and a small amount of kimchi.
I mentioned atmosphere earlier: H-Mart goes to a lot of effort to look high end, even with the warehouse-size packaging in a lot of aisles. The lighting is indirect or straight-down, there's a lot of wood trim. Assi doesn't achieve that, except in the produce area. Otherwise, it looks like an older Jewel: Dentist-office bright, slightly narrower aisles, it just feels less refined.
It's about half the distance from my house to H-Mart, and probably adequate for most Asian ingredient hunts, so I'll probably be back on a regular basis. I like H-Mart's meat better, and they do have more produce, especially herbs, so I'll probably occasionally go there too.
What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang