Every year my buddy Howie from Sonoma and I spend a weekend together, eating our way through a new city. Last year, it was Washington D.C.
http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=5734
This year it was Seattle. Basically, we have not much new to report that LTHers won't already be familiar with. But I'll say a few words, nonetheless.
We got around to it a bit late Thursday evening, so when we got to Jasmine in Post Alley by the Market at 8:15, it was closed. We went around the corner and found an Ethiopian/African restaurant on First Avenue. It wasn't very good, and, I'm sorry to say, I didn't write down the name. But don't bother going looking for it, in any case.
Friday we were first in line at Salumi. Wonderful crowd of foodies, all standing around talking excitedly about where we'd eaten before, and what was in store for us behind the "Closed" sign. The crowd convinced us to order the grilled lamb sand, which we duly did, once the time came.
So the smiling man opened the door for us, we crowded in, and had an absolutely wonderful time talking to the staff, the crowd, ourselves, as we went through the ordering process. Howie and I both got the sandwiches, I on the country loaf/bun, he on the baguette. He chose more wisely--there's just way too much bread on the bun. We tasted some salami on the way down the line: simply terrific! I got a half pound of salumi to bring home.
The lamb sandwiches weren't teriffic. Not much lambiness, a bit dry (overcooked?), and the meat itself was too gristley. We were sitting next to a regular (in fact the guy who owned the shop next door), who got some other things for us to taste. He was eating this marvelous-looking concoction of baked acorn squash stuffed with pasta and meat.
So, all-in-all, a glorious experience, even considering the sandwiches. It is so delightful to be in amongst a bunch of folks who are absolutely dedicated to their work, who love doing it, and are having a great time doing their job with a crowd who is appreciating it as much as they are.
Mid-afternoon at Elliott's for oysters. Oh boy. We hit the happy hour (50¢ per oyster) precisely at 3, and chose to accompany the bivalves with the happy hour micro, a very nice porter, whose richness was a superb framework for the brineyness of the oysters. Great staff--again people who really believe in what they're doing. We sat at the bar and talked to the shuckers. The oysters were Calm Coves, from Hood Canal. Small, quite firm, nice and briney, with a long finish. I lusted after the Wescott Bay European flats, and one of the shuckers slipped me a couple. Yee-Hah! These are totally correct Belons, which I have eaten in a restaurant At The Vrai Source, so hey! I know pretty much mostly what they're supposed to be like. Imagine a 5mm thick silver dollar size, crunchy oyster delight, with an after taste that builds for 15-20 seconds after you swallow, metallic and beautiful.
The wine list was long and almost exclusively West Coast. That's commendable BUT: in a shellfish house, surely there just *has* to be at least
one from the Muscadet/Sancerre/N.Z. Marborough sauvignon blanc triad on the menu?
Howie and I can most seriously recommend Elliott's. A great experience.
That evening we went to a restaurant, Von's, owned by an old college buddy. Tim was treating us, so we had the best. Von's is most famous for their martinis, and justifiably so. We tried some fabuluous gins, some so floral they were gardenia-like, others just... well, different. I found my thrill in Broker's, which is medicinal-juniperish to the nth power. I can't afford the stuff, but man, what a martini.
Howie had the prime rib, I had the smoked wild salmon, which Tim had promised me I would find superb. He was right: nice and smokey, perfectly cooked, a real delight. I accompanied it with a very good Caesar, just eggy and anchovy enough.
Von's has a weird and wonderful wine list--nothing makes much sense, except the price and the policy that, if you don't like the wine, you can order another one free. Probably some of the finest wine values in Seattle restaurant history there.
Because Ivar's Acres of Clams was the site of my very first Real Date, long ago when rock 'n roll and I were about the same age, I convinced Howie that we needed to go there for fish and chips. My bad. 'Nuff said.
Saturday night we hit Seven Stars Peppers. Oh boy. What a place! Great staff, great service, great food. I did my Chinese restaurant trick-- saying the few words of Mandarin that I know (all about food, natch!), and the staff turned the hospitality up a notch, if that were even possible. We ordered, and the eats started appearing in under 5 mins. Everything was on the table before 10 mins. To start: the fried green onion 'pancake' was just superb, crispy, lots of onions, not at all doughy. Garlic baby bok choy (mei ching choi) were exactly right, bright shiny green, with a cosmic level of garlic, still a bit crunchy. Ants on a stick were ok, but that's a problem with the dish, I think, not the kitchen. Dan-dan noodles were excellent, served with a hot soupy sauce, and not the cold thick pasty version one often gets. The folks at the next table got them with shaved noodles, which they gave us a sample of. Yum!
The killer dish was the Szechwan Fish: equal parts very mild fish and tofu, a sour hot sauce with a haunting aroma (?small green bamboo shoots?tamarind?) that just kept us eating, and eating, and eating. We swapped tastes with our neighbors, who'd ordered the Szechwan Shrimp. Equally superb, but totally different treatment to the sauce, and the shrimp were crispy.
The whole trip was worth the Szechwan Fish dish.
We liked this place as well as we'd liked last year's winner, Joe's Noodles in Rockport MD.
On the way out of town, I stopped at Anthony's Fish Bar in the airport terminal. Got the fish and chips. Excellent. Entirely made up for the zilch at Ivar's. Anthony's has some awfully good looking fish tacos, too. I can easily say that this is one of the best values At The Airport I've ever seen. Maybe I should add it to that thread! : )
I'm not going to put on the contact info for these places--I think they're all mentioned above.
Seattle's a great town to eat in.
Geo
Sooo, you like wine and are looking for something good to read? Maybe
*this* will do the trick!
