I suddenly found myself kidless and wifeless for just long enough to dine somewhere close by last night. And an idea popped into my head-- maybe this was, at last, my chance to try TerraGusto again. It had been over a year, since that time I tried walking in with the whole family and was turned away. Now, at least, I wouldn't have the rest of them staring at me wondering what to do when I was turned away. And it would be a chance to evaluate the reports of Terragusto's friendliness-- or unwelcoming quirkiness.
I popped my head around 5:45. It was obvious that they were not open yet, but when I asked about the possibility of dining, Theo quickly looked at the reservations and made me one for 6 pm. (Point 1: walk-ins
are possible, though they do book fairly full.) Then I decided to push their hospitality a little and asked if I could hang out somewhere out of the way until then. (I wasn't really trying to put the screws to them, I just saw little point in walking straight home, turning around, and walking right back; but I was curious what the reaction would be.) They scanned the room for about 2 seconds to figure out where that would be, but were happy to set me up at the front and brought me water and a menu to look over, no "c'est impossible!" or "well I guess we can make an exception
this time" attitude as one might well have found in many other places.
Right at 6 I was seated and the first question was, have you dined with us before? I said yes, and the whole question of the "FBI warning" preamble as discussed above was dropped without a word. (I did hear it delivered to another table later, it didn't seem that egregious, well within the typical pretension level of the modern restaurant.) So point 2, whatever the full-of-themselves level they were at some months ago, when a lot of the posts in this thread were made, they seem to have mellowed out since then and nothing about the service (which was perfectly good-- of course it should have been, considering that the place didn't start to fill until I was nearly done) suggested that TerraGusto is wound any tighter than any other popular restaurant.
And the food? Very solid. A mushroom sformato, an eggy custard topped with toasted cheese, was a bit much for one person but had a nice comfy feel. Tagliatelle with roasted walnut pesto, little cubes of pancetta and some bufala ricotta on top was dynamite, I feared the ricotta might serve as a flavor extinguisher but far from it, all in all confirming (not that there was much doubt) that the fresh pastas are the star here and they have as good a handle on them as any place in town. Olive oil for dipping the bread was ordinary, but the two green olives placed in it were excellent, the best olives I've had since my
Spain trip.
I had thought TerraGusto overpriced at times in the past, I still think the secondi are (the price may be justified by the use of naturally-raised meat, still, I'm not there for a $40 steak), but the pastas, antipasti etc. are all fair value and so, I think, is the "Italian meal" prix fixe for large groups. All in all, I think the quirks/off-putting aspects mentioned above were anomalies, growing pains, or have been smoothed out over time, and I would not hesitate to recommend a return visit. I'd still call before tromping the family up there and setting myself up for
that look, though.