I went in search of dinner tonight on foot down North Clark Street. I decided to try Sabor Michoacan, a determinedly "cute" restaurant that's been
briefly mentioned by a couple of LTHers.
I don't mean to mock the decor -- in fact, by the time I was done I decided I liked it a lot -- but it is the kind of quaintness that can be really grating if it's done without soul. There are lots of bright colors, a hand painted sign, and a counter with stool seating.
To start, they bring chips with both red and green salsa, as well as a small dish of refried beans. Both salsas were thicker than most places I go, and the red had a very slightly creamy color as well.
The special tonight was chicken en mole, which is usually one of my favorites. I almost didn't order it, because I wasn't in the mood for quite such a heavy meal, but I decided if it's the special and something I usually like, I ought to give it a shot. I also decided to have one taco al pastor, just to see how they hit it.
The taco was hot and fresh tasting, although the heat seemed to me suspiciously even, as if it had probably just gotten a quick griddle, and there wasn't a whole lot of char either. Satisfying, but not legendary.
The mole was also well prepared--perhaps almost too much, as one of the drumstick bones literally pulled right out of the meat, it had stewed so long. I might have liked a little more give to the meat. The mole was dark and thick, but a little "one-note" compared to the best.
I also ordered a big mango water (they have watermelon on the menu, but I was told that tonight was mango). It was excellent: I'm so accustomed to mango flavored things really laying it on, and the relatively refined flavor in the "water" was a nice change.
Overall, my take is that my meal was made with care from reasonable quality ingredients. My personal taste would call for a little more fireworks in the seasonings all around, but the server was very nice and the room was after all quaint and not cheesy, so I would basically recommend anyone in Rogers Park giving this place a shot. It's definitely a step up in aspiration from most of the taquerias, more in the vein of La Cazuela and Cuetzala (but cuter

)
(They advertise a mixed seafood grill for two, four, or six that includes octopus and shrimp, a few other things I can't recall, and also steak and a few kinds of vegetables, presumably grilled. It costs about $38 for two, but I have a hunch it could be pretty good. Could be a good anchor order for an LTH outing!)
Sabor Michoacan
7021 N. Clark Street
(773) 465-1122
Joe G.
"Whatever may be wrong with the world, at least it has some good things to eat." -- Cowboy Jack Clement