I May Never Eat Oysters Again -- Neptune Oyster, Boston
When Bill Barclay, an old friend of mine and recently deceased English professor at Elmhurst College, had a bowl of French onion soup in France, after he helped win WWII, he decided it was so good, he never wanted to have French onion soup again. That post-war potage was so earth-shakingly excellent, perhaps for reasons of historical moment as well as taste, he saw no point in having any version of this dish that would inevitably be less good and that would, I suppose, sully the memory.
Last night, the family and I went to Neptune Oyster in Boston’s North End. It was a rainy and crummy night, but inside it was crowded and warm and we felt good together.
We had oysters as an app…and after our entrées, oysters for dessert.
Four Island Creek oysters (Massachusetts) and four Pemaquid (Maine) were the perfect way to end my oyster eating forever. Like the oysters (Wellfleet, Katama Bay, and Island Creek) we had before dinner, these were some of the finest bivalves I’ve ever had and maybe will ever have. Each one, beautifully shucked without a speck of shell and with a good mouth-filling splash of liquor, had a personality, a deep oceanic succulence that would not let go. An hour later, this morning, tonight, I can still imagine their living flavor.
The Wife, daughters and I had a wonderful dinner together. We frequently do, yet this was kind of a different night. Better than usual.
The oysters still resonate, soft yet powerful, deep, and I'm not sure I want to mess with that memory.
Neptune Oysters
63 Salem
Boston, MA
617-742-3474
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins