We arrived about 6, and unfortunately the place was empty and remained that way for almost our entire meal.
Yeah, well,
that's over already.
In fact, although we were easily seated around 6:20, people were waiting for 4-tops (though not 2-tops) by the time we left around 7:30. (I suspect the chocolate cake that takes 15 minutes to bake will soon be off the dessert menu by necessity.) Two weeks from now, they'll be lining up outside, and the chef told us he's already thinking about expanding into the space next door.
And this success will be entirely deserved. I don't know where Mixteco ranks yet in the pantheon of
ex-Frontera employee restaurants but as far as I can recall it is probably already the best Mexican restaurant east of Western on the north side, which not that long ago was just about the entire restaurant world as far as anybody besides a few culinary Magellans was concerned. (Even if it's not necessarily saying much in the greater spectrum of Chicago Mexican-- wow, it's really better than Mamacita's, El Jardin AND El Burrito Loco? Yes, but don't take that as damning with faint praise.) And so I think it will go from cute little discovery to everybody's jampacked favorite in record time. Like, sometime this week. Give it a GNR now, while the chef's still returning your calls.
What we had, that is, after the fresh chips and brightly ancho-flavored salsa:
Tacos ensenada, that is, fish tacos in the more typical style (eg. Fonda del Mar, not Tacos del Pacifico). I've liked Fonda del Mar's a lot but these blew them away-- seasoned/vinegared tomatoes sharpened this dish up to a fine point.
Empanadas, which we basically ordered for the kids (though I knew they'd only eat the beef and cheese and the best one, olive-y tasting huitlacoche, would be saved for me).
Uchepos Gratinados-- this extremely photogenic dish was corn tamales with cheese and roasted corn. Everybody loved the pure comfy scarfability of these, in fact we ordered a second plate of them because the kids liked them so much.
Some kind of white seafish-- corvina? what is that, dover tilapia?-- grilled with a green mole and white beans. The mole wasn't the most profound I ever had, but it was fine, and I liked that they weren't afraid of charring the outside to the point of bitterness.
Our old friend cochinita pibil, familiar to me from the Yucatan, or at least Chuck's earlier in the week-- and a fine rendition.
We just dabbled in dessert, ordering a single plate of crepes with cajeta (goat milk caramel). The sauce on this, bright was cinnamon and the cajeta's own caramel flavor, was terrific, but the texture of the crepes was a bit odd-- maybe they were rewarmed, but they seemed kind of heavy and mealy. Strange. Too bad, because the sauce really was great.
All in all, an impressive level of performance for a place in its second week (and obviously coming under the gun very quickly), but to their immense credit, they're staffed for it-- I've never seen so many people working so small a room, including four cooks in a space big enough for one or two. And the level of hospitality was extremely high, even under the beginnings of real pressure. This is one of the best casual-level additions to the north side since Spacca Napoli opened a few blocks away, and you'll want to go soon.