Took the family to Katsu this past weekend to celebrate my son's birthday. He's a huge sushi fan and he'd never been there before. In fact, even for me, it had been a few years, which is all but inexcusable. Rarely have I been quite as excited as I was during the day leading up to our meal. There are only a select few places at which you just know you're going have a stand-out, superior-quality experience, and Katsu is one of them.
We walked into a mostly empty restaurant on-time for our 6 pm reservation. We were greeted warmly and seated right away (just so this important detail doesn't get lost later in this post, the restaurant was about 80% full when we departed at around 7:45). What followed was a glorious meal, which reflected the consistently high level of excellence for which Katsu is known.
We told Katsu that we'd come for the omakase and were then asked about our preferences. We explained that we liked everything and that we'd love a mix of things -- whatever chef felt was best. Katsu was very receptive to this and then asked my son if he would eat everything, too. Without missing a beat, my son told Katsu "please don't take it easy on me," and the procession of awesomeness began . . .

Anticipation, even though the wait was not long.

We know so little about sake but when we asked our server to select something for us, he brought us this small bottle, which was smooth and aromatic -- a great match for courses that followed.
Clams in Broth with ScallionThis was a great opener. I loved the tasty, tender clams and the complex broth, which I believe contained sake.
FlounderI'd had a similar dish at Sea Saw in Scottsdale, AZ a few years back but this was just as memorable in its own right. The filet of the flounder was cut into small chunks, lightly battered and fried. The crisp pieces were then placed back into the shell of the fish (skin, bones and head), which had also been battered and fried. We were told that the entire fish was edible, which we kind of already knew. Talk about using the whole fish!
FlounderFlounder, slowly disappearing.
FlounderWe saved the best for last.
SashimiThis was a barrage of some of the finest fish I've ever tasted. It was so clean, so fresh, it was in a class of its own. Top-right and left: Yellowtail from Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, Japan, top-center (and elsewhere): flounder with dried lemon, center: bluefin fatty toro, bottom-center: white super toro, bottom left: sea scallop, bottom right: salmon and salmon roe.
Wagyu Filet MignonWe loved how Katsu mixed it up for us. This filet was juicy, delicious and delicate (if beef can be delicate).
SushiAnother wondrous and immaculate assortment of fish, this time in sushi form. It was a moment of great parental pride and pleasure for me when the boy and I downed those delicious shrimp heads in unison.
Yellowtail from Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, Japan
Bluefin fatty toro
Flounder with Umeboshi (at least I think it was umeboshi)
UnagiThis unagi wasn't part of the sushi plate but my son mentioned early on that he loved eel. So, in a moment of much-appreciated overkill, Katsu sent this out for him with the sushi course.
Unagi Chawan Mushi (aka steamed custard with eel)
This savory custard caught our eye on the menu and even though we were darned full, we had to try it. In addition to the unagi, it also contained ginkgo nuts, shiitake mushrooms and fish cake. Delectable!
Navel OrangeThe season for navels in California is winding down but damn if this wasn't one of the best oranges I've tasted all winter. I laughed when I tasted it because even the citrus at Katsu is a cut above.
This was such a great meal, I warned the boy that I may have permanently ruined all other Chicago sushi for him by taking him to Katsu. This sets the bar so high that none of my other favorites can really touch it. The cooked courses were terrific (and may be equalled elsewhere, I suppose) but the raw courses were in a class by themselves. Add to that the excellent service, the reasonable (great value for what it is) prices and the overall vibe and it's easy to see why so many around here proudly refer to themselves as Katsu's beeyatches.
I mentioned to a friend that this meal was the antidote for last weekend's
tatami room kaiseki dinner at L.20 and then realized how snarky that sounded. I really enjoyed the meal at L.20 and its quality was inarguable. Chef Gras had put out more than a dozen courses that celebrated and showcased the sea. But in the context of what Katsu had done for us, I was now seeing that meal in a different light.
Even before Katsu, I felt like the dinner at L.20 was somewhat lost on me. At the time I thought that, perhaps, it was the all-fish and seafood-based menu that didn't entirely click with me ("really, it's not you, it's me"). So, while my appreciation for the quality of the ingredients and the skill used in preparing them was high, the meal as a whole didn't entirely compel me. Eating at Katsu helped me understand why. On some levels, Katsu did with one plate -- the sushi plate -- what L.20 took 17 courses to do -- showed off the wonders of the sea. No sea-faring ingredient I enjoyed at L.20 was any higher in quality than what Katsu offered, yet Katsu served us so much more. He took us on a journey. Beyond showcasing the immaculate fish, he served us soup and tempura and beef and custard. The sensations his creations delivered were unified in theme, yet varied enough to create a distinct progression -- a drama of sorts.
Again, I'm not bashing the kaiseki at L.20 because it was exemplary on so many levels. But it just didn't speak to me in the way our meal at Katsu did. I initially thought that chef Gras had adhered to the all-sea theme in duty to authenticity or tradition but that doesn't seem to have been the case. The omakase at both Katsu and the aformentioned Sea Saw -- both helmed by chefs of Japanese descent -- had contained non-sea-faring items. For that matter, so too did Gras' kaiseki -- bread, butter, chocolate, Western wines. So, the lack of variation at L.20 was not a necessary part of the experience. Instead, it was a function of the chef's choices, within the context of the restaurant's mission. But even L.20 serves wagyu beef and pork belly. And that's where the L.20 experience kind of unraveled a bit for me. But it took a phenomenal meal at Katsu to make me understand this. And my initial thought about wanting to return to L.20 -- but not for the kaiseki experience -- now made complete sense. To draw a weak metaphor, I appreciated the artistry of chef Gras' voice, I just didn't like the story he was telling.
So, anyway, I digress

The bottom line is that our meal at Katsu was not only amazing and thoroughly enjoyable but the experience was also so profound, that it helped me develop context and understanding about meals I'd had at other restaurants. I am almost ashamed that it had been over 2 years since my last visit to Katsu and I know (and have promised myself) that it will not be nearly that long until the next one.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain