I posted my very preliminary initial impressions above. I've had a bit of time to come back to earth and wanted to add just a little in the way of comments on the specific dishes. (My parenthetical descriptions draw heavily on the wonderful accounts from GAF and makisupa12, above.)
Amuse (red grapefruit with honey sorbet and chamomile agar atop a cold glass "ice cube") -- wonderful taste, excellent starter. The acid of the grapefruit and the sweetness of the sorbet were perfectly matched. Loved it; a great combination of clean flavors, refreshing and palate-readying.
Jonah Crab (Crab, both “straight” and pickled, accompanied by a slice of dehydrated banana, batons of celery, celery root and a celery root puree. cube of brioche injected with hot banana liquor) An unexpected combination of tastes and textures; worked well together. Overall, I found it very interesting and good, but not a knock-out.
Beer Cheese Soup (exactly as it sounds, from cheese and beer made by a Belgian monastery, accompanied by a tiny pretzel ball and dill pickle puree and a dehydrated mustard chip)
Extraordinarily concentrated and unfortunately, a bit too salty. The concept and the flavor were obviously excellent and had the saltiness not been at the fore, I would have probably named this as one of my top dishes. The tiny pretzel “hole” was wonderful but I didn’t really get much flavor from the dill pickle puree painted on the plate. The dehydrated mustard chip was a terrific accompaniment but overall, I was disappointed because of the saltiness.
Pad Thai (Traditional noodle dish with a peanut puree and jellyfish as the "noodles")
A disappointment. I found the pad thai flavors just didn’t really remind me of pad thai. Had I not know what the noodles really were, I would never have guessed jellyfish. I didn’t find them a revelation; heck, I didn’t even think that they made much difference. The dish simply didn’t work for me.
Arctic Char Roe (Tiny slices of pumpernickel, candied mustard seeds, and miniature balls of rutabaga with the roe on a Meyer lemon puree, all accompanied by a rutabaga juice shooter)
The shooter was extremely concentrated rutabaga: too much so for me. Since the miniature rutabaga balls were already on the plate, I thought the dish would have been fine without the shooter. As it was, it was far too strong for me. Even so, I enjoyed the rest of the composition, though fish roe of most kinds aren’t exactly my cup of tea.
Quail Egg Ravioli (off menu: ravioli with cheese and brown butter with a quail egg yolk in the middle)
Exquisite. Stupendous dish. Others have waxed philosophical and ultimately, I agree with them: simple perfection.
Pine Cone (sea urchin ice cream on a maple syrup flavored tuile with some pine essence)
Intriguing combination yet again. I didn’t get much sea urchin flavor (which is probably for the best). I enjoyed it but overall, it wasn’t one of the top dishes for me.
Kona Kampachi (three slices of kampachi accompanied by lime gelee, a galangal crisp, and a maple foam, batons of salsify, and tiny slices of (pickled?) daikon sprinkled with cayenne)
Absolutely wonderful. The flavors combined in a way I would never have suspected. Lime and galangal matched, a reasonable expectation, but when added to the daikon and the fish, the whole exceeded the sum of the parts.
Lamb brains and morels Small cubes of lamb brains accompanied by morels and a mushroom foam (if memory serves).
Once again, a fascinating dish that suffered from too much salt. The “crispy lamb brains” were rich, with a very delicate flavor. They were accompanied by some too-salty morels with nasturtium and a poached quail egg. I wasn’t eager to try this one but found it much more to my liking than I expected. Had salt not been the issue, it would have ranked high on my list.
Antelope (a rectangle of butternut squash separated antelope prepared two different ways: tenderloin sous vide and a stewed ragout. Accompanied by white chocolate mousse and macadamia puree)
Fabulous dish. Antelope and white chocolate?? Yup. Astonishing combinations that worked perfectly. A dish of genius. The sous vide antelope looked beautiful and tasted even better. Talk about melt-in-your-mouth…. I don’t know that the rectangle of squash was the best way to incorporate it and would be the one thing I might change, but the flavors—especially the two presentations of antelope—were excellent. And the white chocolate turned out to be a perfect foil for the meat.
Cheese (A tiny slice of savory cheesecake made from Humboldt fog blue cheese with black truffle ash atop a graham cracker crust).
Not sure I’m gonna run right out and look to replicate this one. For what it was/is, I thought it was excellent. Just not to my taste, I guess. I love the cheese, although I think that it was a little less fully flavored than I expected. I’ve pondered this for a while and can’t quite figure out why it was less successful than I expect. For some reason, I just couldn’t quite wrap my head around this one. Nothing I’d have changed in the execution or ingredients...
Dessert (Parsnip custard, maple syrup and lavender foam. Dabs of passionfruit and candied sweetbreads)
Who’d a thunk? Parsnip custard? Wow! Astonishing, amazing, delicious, scrumptious, and just plain remarkable. Or if you prefer, as was said above, positively ethereal. Truth be told, although I enjoyed the other components of the dish, they paled in comparison.
We brought a number of bottles and my take was that the champagne (we started with a Bollinger brut) was an excellent match. I was surprised when the kitchen opened a bottle of
txacoli, a light, bright, slightly effervescent wine from the Basque region in Spain. It was thoroughly enjoyable but just didn’t have the body needed to stand up to the food. A great summer wine but the wrong one for this food. My sense is that a good sauvignon blanc/pouilly fume/gruner veltliner would have been a much better choice. We had two reds and let the kitchen choose. Although we eventually opened and tasted both, their choice was wrong, in that the second bottle would have clearly been a much better choice for the last couple courses—especially the antelope.
What am I saying? Be careful. These guys know a lot about wine but they can’t know everything a sommelier would. They’re chefs and they’re top-notch performers in that arena. It may be too much to expect them to know every conceivable bottle that a party might bring into the restaurant. In our case, I think they chose the wrong bottle twice. Horrible mistake? No. Just that the right bottle in each case would have added much more to the overall experience. If need be, take the menu from the website and go into a liquor store where you have confidence in the people there and ask for their help matching.
All in all, for the price—$105—this has got to be one of the greatest deals in the city, if not the country. I won’t rhapsodize about the room, the staff, or experience. Others have done so far more successfully than I could. But, the several dishes that I was less than pleased with don’t diminish my pleasure from this meal. My criticisms about the wines, while significant in its way, are almost beside the point. Dining at Schwa (or any other place like it) is about the entire experience and, all taken together, it was really a
tour de force. Each of us enjoyed the meal tremendously, as much for the experience as for the food. It was a wonderful evening and I can’t imagine one quite like it anywhere else.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)