Whiskey-drinking locavores have it tough around here. Illinois (Peoria in particular) once produced large quantities of whiskey but these days Kentucky bourbon is about as local as it gets. So I was surprised to see an Illinois whiskey on the list at Binny's Tasting Room. Even more surprising it was bottled by Hirsch, one of the great names in American whiskey. As I understand it's essentially a bourbon except it was aged in used barrels (new casks are required if the whiskey is to be labeled bourbon).
I have to say I was disappointed. There's a pronounced acetone (nail polish remover) flavor I don't care for. It's not a terrible whiskey but at $15 a shot it's one of the few things on the menu that's not a good deal. That same $15 will get you a shot of Hirsch 21 year old rye, an extraordinary whiskey. It's like licking a smooth-sanded, freshly-shellacked oak table.
There are plenty of interesting things on the Binny's list, including some nice bourbons. For me, the star is Parker's Heritage Collection, Release 2 ($8 a shot). Parker's last name is Beam (his grandfather's brother was Jim) and he seems to know a thing or two about making bourbon. This might be as close to perfect as any I've tried. All the classic bourbon flavors are there—spice, caramel, vanilla, oak, leather—but all are in stunning balance. It's bottled at barrel strength (nearly 130 proof) so a little dilution will be necessary. Bourbon lovers who haven't tried this one are in for a treat.
Binny's South Loop Tasting Room
1132 S Jefferson St
Chicago
312-768-4400