After a meeting with the general contractor for Casa Pazzia I felt the need of some sustenance. Fifty-fifth street has at least 3 Thai spots within 2 1/2 blocks. The first 2 appeared (given a completely cursory, walk-by glance) completely generic. The Snail looked a bit homey, lived in and somehow slightly more interesting, so I went in.
I was immediately warmed by the enthusiastic but completely unforced welcome given me by the middle-aged hostess (owner?), who acted as if she had been actively waiting for me and was just starting to get a bit worried.
The menu is large, but largely standard. However I noted "northern style" grilled sausage among the apps and lost no time in ordering it.
The plate that arrived was full of bright colors and a generous portion. It's been a while, but as I recall Spoon's version of Issan sausage, the sausages are whole and there isn't a whole lot of garnish. Just a whole lot of meat. (Perhaps that's just my memory.)
Snail's version has the sausages sliced on the diagonal and into ovals about 3/8" think. The nice thing about this is that each bite gets almost completely crisped.
The sausage sat on a bright bed of thinly jullienned carrot, cabbage, ginger, and red onion scattered with cilantro and minced green chili.
One nice thing about all this was that there were lots of different kinds of crunch going on, from the variation between carrot crunch and cabbage crunch, to the crunch of the meat, to the softer crunch of the peanuts.
I was somewhat surprised that the flavor was very mild. Very good, but with none of Spoon's mind-altering funkiness, though the sausage looked like the same species. I asked the waitress if this was Issan style and she smiled and allowed as it was, but that they don't let it ferment as much as they would like because customers complained that they thought it was spoiled. She agreed that she preferred it more sour and squeezes lemon over it to get some kick back.
Despite the plate having reasonable amount of heat from the chilis, I found that dipping in Sriracha sauce really added to the overall, because it supplied both a different kind of heat as well as some vinegar tang. Despite the mildness, I enjoyed the dish a lot.
I follwed it with a bowl of Potak. The broth was fairly dark and rich and with a pretty significant kick, redolent of cilantro and filled with the expected mushroom, scallop, shrimp, cuttlefish combo. Very satisfying.
Service was friendly and quick. Water was continually refilled.
Very much looking forward to a return visit. (Perhaps if I call ahead, they'll ferment some sausage just for me.)
The Snail
1649 E. 55th St.
Chicago, IL 60615 773-667-5423
"Strange how potent cheap music is."