Ritual Hatting: New World Hatters

Ritual Hatting: New World Hatters

Every tribe has its rituals. For ours, it's the traditional seeking of the hat. Though this rite of passage lacks the wild fresh-air adventure of the walk-a-bout, and the transcendental pain of clitorechtomy or adult circumcision, it bears some resemblance to the Native American vision quest for one's "name" – a seeking for personal identity.

So it was that Saturday my daughter and I made our way to New World Hatters. It's on Madison Street, and it's my idea of what a hat shop should be. It's got the standard black fedoras, straw hats, cowboy hats, chartreuse beaver hats, party-colored pork pies, Kangols, the whole range, sophisticated to street.



New World Hatters is owned by a guy, Ray, who still makes them, and he's one of the last who still cleans them in the Midwest (hat cleaning, even more than hat making, is a dying art; though we do what we can to keep it alive).



Ray is the real deal. He came home from WWII (France and Belgium), and thought he'd work at the hat store until "he got his feet on the ground." That was fifty or so years ago. His store has seen a lot. The Westside burnings after the King assassination drove a lot of businesses out, but Ray has been able to stay, and his relationship with the neighborhood is neighborly and cool; every time I've been there, many locals have been hanging around, sometimes just sitting quietly watching the hats, eating and talking.



Ray sold me my first hat in the 90s, and so Saturday, after my daughter's apparent uncertainly about this hat or that, but watching her seeming inclination toward a beret, Ray said, "Here. Take it as my gift to you. Your dad does a lot of business with me."

That action seemed so right. To receive the ceremonial head gear from the Shaman of the Chapeau, who would not accept payment, fulfilled the initiatory function of the event, and set the right tone for the Blue Moon lunar dance, ritual sacrifices and other highlights of this very important weekend for me and my people.

New World Hatters
4146 West Madison Street
Chicago, IL 60624

Excellent stuff.

I'm all for a new hat board. Maybe a retrospective on Johnny's or a bit on Optimo. I've been thinking about an Optimo/Top Notch/Rainbo Cone swing lately.

Hey Mr. Hammond,

I like hats, I have several, and for my wedding even trimmed (or decorated or whatever the word is) my own hat. But it's not easy -- for me anyway -- to wear hats in this city. And I know that "they" say that the Windy City appellation is supposed to be for the political discourse and not the actual weather, but it's certainly gusty enough here that I have to walk around with one hand clamped on top of my head if I don't want to chase my headgear down the sidewalk. Not the look I'm going for!

So, David -- what's your secret for keeping that hat on your head??

Amata

p.s. I once took advantage of Brasserie Jo's Thursday night deal -- wear a hat and get a free "Chocolate Chapeau" dessert. Anyone know if they are still doing that?

Amata wrote:So, David -- what's your secret for keeping that hat on your head??

I would imagine that out in the bucolic environs of Oak Park, such a bothersome thing as wind does not even exist.

Then again, it may very well have been outlawed at the inception of The Republic.

Erik M.

Amata wrote:So, David -- what's your secret for keeping that hat on your head??

Amata,

There are few things sadder than the sight of a man chasing his hat down the street (it's sad for a woman to be in the same position, of course, but somehow not quite so pathetic).

To ensure hat stability, you have to choose the right hat for the environment.

My favorite black hat (I own three of exactly the same type) has a short brim (ensuring reduced loft during high winds) and it sits deep on my head (ensuring good cranial grip).

For Chicago wind, you want a hat with a short brim and a deep seat; a beret is ideal from a practicality standpoint, but I don't prefer them – being completely brimless, berets are worthless for keeping rain/rain/sun off the face, which is a consideration, at least for me.

For everyday practicality in relatively windy weather, I would discourage you from choosing wide-brim head gear, such as many Sunday lady hats and all sombreros.

Hammond

There are few things sadder than the sight of a man chasing his hat down the street (it's sad for a woman to be in the same position, of course, but somehow not quite so pathetic).

What you need to do in that circumstance is to turn the pathetic situation into a comic one, imitating the vaudeville comedian Ben Blue (the same bit was imitated by someone else in Robert Altman's Popeye). The instant you reach the momentarily still hat and seem to be reaching for it, the last foot to stop before you stop kicks the hat forward another ten or twelve feet, to your immediate befuddlement. Repeat indefinitely....

David,

I almost pulled your post, hate of any kind, including ritual, is not subject matter for LTHForum.

When I realized you were actually talking about hats I read, with pleasure, your post. Really a very sweet post, it's obvious you have a deep love for your daughter and great respect for Ray.

As my nephew, who is a Sergeant in the LA County Sheriffs Department, says to his customers, "don't be hating".

Enjoy,
Gary

David Hammond wrote:... a beret is ideal from a practicality standpoint, but I don't prefer them – being completely brimless, berets are worthless for keeping rain/rain/sun off the face, which is a consideration, at least for me.

For everyday practicality in relatively windy weather, I would discourage you from choosing wide-brim head gear, such as many Sunday lady hats and all sombreros.

I marvel at all the fine cowboy or western hats I see in Pilsen... I'm a beret guy... both military and basque... the kind a proper bohemian who writes in bars wears (I know, I'm losing it )... Anyway, because I read and write in dark bars a lot, my eyes are bad and I wear glasses... I started early... I've been wearing them since I was ten... Can't remember when I started with the bars... But berets don't help the glasses stay dry when it's raining... That's when I wear my I-Tech hockey helmet with the half shield... Keeps the glasses dry, never blows off and offers good protection to boot...

Antonius

Antonius wrote:I'm a beret guy

My problem with berets is that they seem too costume-y (except when worn by Jean Paul Sartre).

But that's definitely a style preference, and the costume aspect is a problem with hats in general (at least in the current sartorial climate).

I always wear a hat in autumn and winter – my head feels cold without one – but even then, because they're so uncommon, the hat sometimes feels overly formal, archaic, "costume-y."

Kids recognize the almost "funny" aspect of most all hats, and they refuse to take them seriously. Rob (bless his righteous concern) is forever shouting "Sophie, don't touch his hat!" and I remember the first time I went to MikeG's house, his oldest son grabbed my hat and pulled it hard over his head, until the crown precisely contoured the shape of his tiny skull, imitating, I'm guessing, some comedic action from a Mack Sennett comedy (thus again we see the pernicious influence of modern media upon the malleable minds of the young).

But hats are serious business, and I think many people would find them quite nice if only they wore them. I blame their lack of current popularity on the hat's apparent strangeness and "formality," on John F. Kennedy, and, of course, on a world gone mad.

Hammond[/quote]

David Hammond wrote:

Antonius wrote:I'm a beret guy

My problem with berets is that they seem too costume-y (except when worn by Jean Paul Sartre).
But that's definitely a style preference, and the costume aspect is a problem with hats in general (at least in the current sartorial climate).

Unfortunately, David, I have to agree with you on pretty much all counts, which means I'm so far gone that I now know I look absurd or -- worse still -- silly and wear the darn things anyway. Cold and precipitation cannot be ignored completely. Hatfullness as masking for the ravages of time is vulgar and I denounce it as a bourgeois, reactionary and counter-revolutionary practice, but shelter for a still vaguely active noggin is good (and, I believe, party approved).

I wear a costume when I wear a beret... But then, who is not wearing a costume but for the noble naked savage (who perhaps wears the most affected costume of all)...

But hats are serious business, and I think many people would find them quite nice if only they wore them. I blame their lack of current popularity on the hat's apparent strangeness and "formality," on John F. Kennedy, and, of course, on a world gone mad.

Hats are serious and Kennedy was surely culpable in their precipitous demise... Khrushchev wore a nice fedora (or is that Federov?) sometimes... Also a fur cap now and again, I believe... Saddam too... Times have changed...

A

My son and I are considering a hat outing. Do you have the hours of this establishment? Is it open on the weekends at all?

As to this other piffle on hats - I salute the bold statement they make and fine figures Antonius and Hammy cut. As to the style of it, from this perspective it seems hats are coming back. You just have to wear your doo rag underneath, gangsta. (Gee, I hope I got the terminology right).

There is, though, a liberation to recognizing one will never be cool again. Of course "again" may be overly generous in some cases, like mine I mean.

dicksond:

You're too kind, at least toward me... My figure unfortunately has come to reflect years of Lucullan excess (bring on the Corsican lampreys!)...

So what style(s) of hats do you and your son sport?

A

David

Sounds like a great way to spend the blule moon weekend and support a worthy business at the same time.

Gave me an idea for a bumpersticker. With just a few modifications, that same sticker that is seen on practically every Volvo from Oak park to Evanston can be made to read.

HAT IS A FAMILY VALUE

Hell, might even make a good tagline for NW Hatters

John

dicksond wrote:My son and I are considering a hat outing. Do you have the hours of this establishment? Is it open on the weekends at all?

Butch,

New World Hatters doesn't seem to have hours posted, but I know they close well before dark on weekdays (like 6:00 or so), but they are definitely open on Saturdays (I usually go Saturday afternoons). I doubt they're open on Sundays.

Also, be advised: Ray doesn't take credit cards (another endearingly retrograde feature of the place).

Hammond

Amata wrote:what's your secret for keeping that hat on your head??

I got out of the hat-wearing habit when I had a squashable hairstyle, but I used to wear hats regularly. A secret weapon, for women anyway, is the hat pin. Somewhere I still have a collection of these, some inherited, some purchased. Better hat shops ought to have at least a limited selection, and you can regularly find them at antiques shops and shows.

Be aware that you will not be allowed to enter a courtroom (I know from experience) or an airplane (I imagine) wearing one.

I'm a bit of a kangol addict and Sid's has one of the better selections in the city among other hats/button-down shirts... closes at 5pm daily.

Sid's Clothing Inc 609 West Roosevelt Road

Hats Plus at 4706 W Irving Park , Chicago.

ab wrote:I'm a bit of a kangol addict and Sid's has one of the better selections in the city among other hats/button-down shirts... closes at 5pm daily.

Sid's Clothing Inc 609 West Roosevelt Road

I like Sid's a lot too, and it makes a fine tag-team for a rico huarache.

I forget to mention/link to this the other day, but Hammond's quite the trend setter:

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/08/17/fashion/17DRES.html

(registration required)

David Hammond wrote:

dicksond wrote:My son and I are considering a hat outing. Do you have the hours of this establishment? Is it open on the weekends at all?

Butch,

New World Hatters doesn't seem to have hours posted, but I know they close well before dark on weekdays (like 6:00 or so), but they are definitely open on Saturdays (I usually go Saturday afternoons). I doubt they're open on Sundays.

Also, be advised: Ray doesn't take credit cards (another endearingly retrograde feature of the place).

Hammond

First post, glad to be here!

An acquaintance suggested I have them make me a hat. He indicated the price would be very reasonable.

Although I've Googled them, I haven't come up with any website or detailed information on what they offer. Are they strictly a custom hat maker? The fellow who told me about them owns more than 300 hats, and said they would make me a great hat.

What should I expect to find if I'm able to make it down there one of these days?

Thanks!

Fedoraphile

Unfortunately, this thread has been demolished during the transition to the new platform. I'll see if I can find the original thread and repost.

David Hammond wrote:Unfortunately, this thread has been demolished during the transition to the new platform. I'll see if I can find the original thread and repost.

Good morning, David. Have you had any luck finding the original posting? If not, could you say just a few words on what to expect should I pay them a visit?

Thanks so much,

Fedoraphile

Fedoraphile wrote:

David Hammond wrote:Unfortunately, this thread has been demolished during the transition to the new platform. I'll see if I can find the original thread and repost.

Good morning, David. Have you had any luck finding the original posting? If not, could you say just a few words on what to expect should I pay them a visit?

Thanks so much,

Fedoraphile

The original (sans pix) was put up yesterday by tech-savvy germuska. You should expect to find a great old hat-maker a few hundred hats.

David Hammond wrote:

Fedoraphile wrote:

David Hammond wrote:Unfortunately, this thread has been demolished during the transition to the new platform. I'll see if I can find the original thread and repost.

Good morning, David. Have you had any luck finding the original posting? If not, could you say just a few words on what to expect should I pay them a visit?

Thanks so much,

Fedoraphile

The original (sans pix) was put up yesterday by tech-savvy germuska. You should expect to find a great old hat-maker a few hundred hats.

Thanks so much!

David Hammond wrote:

Amata wrote:So, David -- what's your secret for keeping that hat on your head??

Amata,

There are few things sadder than the sight of a man chasing his hat down the street (it's sad for a woman to be in the same position, of course, but somehow not quite so pathetic).

To ensure hat stability, you have to choose the right hat for the environment.

My favorite black hat (I own three of exactly the same type) has a short brim (ensuring reduced loft during high winds) and it sits deep on my head (ensuring good cranial grip).

For Chicago wind, you want a hat with a short brim and a deep seat; a beret is ideal from a practicality standpoint, but I don't prefer them – being completely brimless, berets are worthless for keeping rain/rain/sun off the face, which is a consideration, at least for me.

For everyday practicality in relatively windy weather, I would discourage you from choosing wide-brim head gear, such as many Sunday lady hats and all sombreros.

Hammond

Please don't buy hats this way. Choose your brim width according to your own face. If it is too windy, simply take your hat off of your head. I have a full face and happen to prefer a shorter brim. Incidentally, it does not help with the wind. However, if you have a thin face and happen to be tall, you want a larger brim.

David thank you for a beautiful post.

A wind trolley is a perfect way to keep a hat in your posession on a windy day. No reason to chase a fine hat down the street.

A well fitting hat with a proper sweat band and conformed custom fit will stay on in most winds anyway.

In my younger days, when I worked downtown, I was fascinated by the different kinds of hats available, and bought a number of differing types over the course of a few years. Unfortunately, my wife at the time (no longer a player in the game) felt that they all looked wrong, and somehow would manage to damage or "lose" them for me in short order. Maybe that's why I lost her. But I miss my berets, Greek fishermen caps, fedoras, et al. I will have to give Ray a look-see. I'm kind of in the mood for a nice Kangol cap. At least I feel like I will be able to at least maintain semi-permanent possession of it this time.

Wives have a way of doing such things. Mine tosses my favorite old work hat of 25 years often and was amazed when I started taking out the garbage so I could get my hat back each time. She finally gave up tossing it but I am still stuck with trash detail.

BlueWater wrote:
Please don't buy hats this way. Choose your brim width according to your own face. If it is too windy, simply take your hat off of your head. I have a full face and happen to prefer a shorter brim. Incidentally, it does not help with the wind. However, if you have a thin face and happen to be tall, you want a larger brim.

I think the notion of this was started in the 50's with 50's style hats and was the ugliest hats ever made with the most unflattering looks as well.

30's- 40's tall staight crown, wide brim hats do more justice to more people than any style.

Went by New World Hatters yesterday morning and yesterday afternoon. Closed, with refrigerators lining the front. Ray hit 90 this year. I suspect he retired...I hope he retired.