Man, it's tough to figure out where to post about a Sweets & Savories meal - there are a gazillion threads associated with the place. Anyway, this one seems to be where positive comments go, and oh boy do I have positive things to say.
Last night was my first attendance at S & S' annual white truffle dinner. What a meal! As the seven courses progressed, I kept insisting that there was no way the current course could be topped. Then it was.
Everything below had white truffle shavings. However, these dishes were not great because of the truffles. They were great because they were great. In each case, I felt that the truffle worked well and - of course - provided wonderful fragrance. But I would be more than happy to return for every one of these dishes, with or without the extravagant addition. I hope they become part of the regular menu or continue on as specials available at least semi-regularly.
Course 1: butter poached Maine lobster egg creamA nicely cooked, meaty claw topped a delicious chanterelle cream sauce. Alongside the plate was a shot glass with more chanterelle cream and some diced celery root. The dish was chopped with shaved white truffle. While it took a minute to figure out what to do with the shot glass (couldn't drink it, as the chunks of celery root got in the way), once we all just decided to pour the whole thing over the lobster, this dish really came together. A beautiful, perfectly balanced combination of flavors. I don't get the presentation idea, but that's an incredibly minor quibble.
Course 2: parmigiano reggiano consomme with crispy veal sweetbread This was everything a great consommé should be. It tasted light and almost cleansing, but also had an incredible intensity of flavor from the cheese. No actual cheese in the soup, just intense flavor from - I imagine - making a stock out of the rinds. It was strange and wonderful to get that intense a cheese sensation in something with a texture that was almost the antithesis of cheese. The sweetbread was fried to perfectly crisp, meaty and tender goodness.
Course 3: seared scallop with black truffle polenta cake and sweet corn nageAgain, a terrific combination of flavors. The scallop and corn had a terrific natural sweetness, balanced very nicely by the super-earthy polenta. My one quibble with this dish is that I would have preferred a firmer-textured polenta cake.
Course 4: roasted bone marrow carnaroli risottoSince the week Sweets & Savories opened, I have known that chef Richards is a master with risotto. This dish took him to whatever the title above master is. It was simply amazing. As always, he cooked the rice to a perfect texture with some nice bite to it. He also composed a dish with incredible intensity of flavor. This risotto oozed meaty, gamey marrow. The intensity grew from one bit to the next. Sometimes I find that intensely meaty dishes like this - after a few delicious bites - begin to induce an unpleasant, heavy or greasy mouth feel. Somehow, as intense as the flavor was in this risotto, the dish still felt light on the palate from start to finish. My non-meat-eating wife may have been converted by this dish. She tries a taste of meat dishes every now and then to remind herself that she doesn't really like them. In this case, a taste became a spoonful, then another, and before you know it - I had to grab my bowl back from her.
Course 5: pheasant breast with foie gras spoonbread and a currant gastriqueThe currant gastrique which - I believe - had a good hit of ginger - paired beautifully with the rich foie gras. Actually, I would have loved for the dish to have stopped tehre, as the pheasant breast was, well, OK. Somewhat bland and a little overdone for my taste.
Course 6: warm gorgonzola cheesecake with roasted pair and frisee saladThis dish was a totally unexpected wow. I anticipated something relatively sweet and dense, but instead got a wonderfully savory and light-as-air "cheesecake". I have no real clue how the chef made this, but here's my guess. Good-quality sweet gorgonzola had been lightened with cream and whipped egg (maybe just egg white), then pan fried in a very hot skillet. Imagine a great crab cake, where the sear creates a nice crust on the outside, and the inside is airy and intensely flavorful. This was the gorgonzola version of that dish. The pears were at their height of ripeness, and the frisee added a very nice crunchy textural contrast. This dish was another masterpiece.
Course 7: stone fruit cobbler with pecorino-bacon gratin and white truffle ice creamFor half our party, this finale challenged the palate in uncomfortable ways. It was too much for them. For the other half, which included me, it was simply marvelous. I can understand both sides though. each component of this dish was - by itself - very intense. It's easy to see how - if not very well balanced - this could overwhelm one's palate. The bacon was incredibly smoky. The cheese very sharp. The fruit was super-sweet. The truffle ice cream was beautifully earthy. For me, when I got a bite with just the right amount of each of these components, it was heavenly. Not so for everyone. One thing we did all agree on: we'd like a quart of that ice cream to take home. Wow was that good.
This was a truly memorable meal, and I am happy to say that Sweets & Savories is right back at the top of my list of Chicago restaurants. When you put your palate in the hands of a chef that is bold and adventurous like David Richards, it's possible that you'll come upon a few things that are not to your taste. That happens to me occasionally at Sweets & Savories, but the upside is so wonderful that I wouldn't suggest that chef Richards change a thing about the way he cooks.
...defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in
The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis
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