Roy’s: South Seas on State Street

Roy’s: South Seas on State Street

For a restaurant group that’s been around for so long, and that’s located so far and wide, it’s a little surprising that Roy’s hasn’t been mentioned more on LTH…a “little” surprising, but I can imagine why it hasn’t.

• For one, in Chicago, we’re not used to Polynesian food except in somewhat cartoon-y versions at places like Trader Vic’s. Not sure why. Maybe lack of sufficient South Pacific population to support such a venture? Lack of availability of the right ingredients? Years ago, on Chowhound, my friend Vital Information asked what type of cuisine we’d like to see more of in Chicago, and my answer was simple: “Anything Samoan.” There are many cuisines that are not represented on local menus, and the foods of the Pacific Islands are at the top of the neglected foods list.

• For two, Roy’s is a fusion place, so although it shows Polynesian (specifically Hawaiian) influences, it’s not really ethnic cuisine, which is probably (and understandably) the most common type of chow lauded on this site.

Eager to learn more about the food of the South Pacific, I attended a media event at Roy’s.

The way the restaurants in the Roy’s empire are structured, about one-third of the dishes are “classics” designed by Roy Yamaguchi himself, and the others are developed locally by the chefs.

We tried to balance our dinner with classics and local specialties, and found a few common themes in all.

• This stuff is sweet. Whether with pineapple juice, guava or just cane sugar, this food is prepared with a hefty blast of sweet flavorings, which I understand to be typical of the Polynesian culinary tradition. I don’t believe it’s a sop to America’s big sweet tooth but rather a reflection of a “regional” preference. In summer, this sweetness is just fine.

• This stuff is soft. I’m not sure if it’s owing to preparation techniques or the time the stuff spends in sugar, softening up, or what, but this is some easy to eat food. Goes down like the setting sun over water.

• The stuff shows a good balance of fruit/veg and protein. Somewhat similar to Chinese cuisine, the food here features a healthy blend of plant and animal life. Unlike yer standard seafood or steak joint, the fruits and veggies are mixed in with the main course.

The Wife wanted a roll, and although I feel I've probably had enough rice rolls for a lifetime, this one epitomized the soft/sweet of Roy’s regular texture/flavor profile, and it was about as fresh as you can expect in the Midwest.



I had the Kajiki, which is one of those fish that seems to have swum to the surface of Midwestern menus in the very recent past. The basic ingredients are good quality, though I found the sharp right angles on my fish unsettling: not sure why, but I imagined them chain-sawed in some sunny, aquarium-type island abattoir. This was some mild fish, very delicate and not at all what I’d imagined this member of the marlin family to be. It, like all the fish, was cooked with considerable care, and it sat on some rice spiked with sweet pineapple.



The Wife had the "Classic Roasted Macadamia Nut Crusted Corvina in a Main Lobster Butter Sauce," and really liked it a lot. Don't believe I've had Corvina before, but again it was a super-light fish that got a significant flavor lift from the nuts and lob sauce.



Maybe it’s because we associate the islands with vacation or maybe they drink a lot on the southern islands, but booze seems to play a big part in meals at Polynesian-type places. I had an “Original Hawaiian Martini,” with Maui pineapples infused with vodka and coconut rum. It was a good match for the food.

Our server, Prisicilla, was fabulously knowledgeable; she seemed to know a lot about every dish, which is good for a guy like me, who would like to know more about island food.

Roy's - Chicago
(312) 787-7599
720 N. State Street
Chicago IL 60610

Well, I apparently misremembered posting about our dinner there, but I didn't misremember this previous thread.

Gypsy Boy wrote:Well, I apparently misremembered posting about our dinner there

Well, now's your chance.

Roy's is a nice circus, but if you're looking for some more authentic "ethnic" cuisine, you need to check out Aloha Grill on Clark Street. Check out the loco moco or one of their combination plate lunches. That is much more indicative of what the locals eat in the islands, rather than the touristy type stuff that Roy's serves (not that there's anything wrong with a nice piece of fruity fish).

Aloha Grill
Hawai'ian BBQ
2534 N. Clark St.
Chicago IL 60614
773-935-6828

I'm going to have the opportunity to eat at two other Roy's establishments in August: in Honolulu, and then in San Francisco. I'm glad to see this thread started because I'd like to add my impressions of those other locations when I get back.

stevez wrote:Roy's is a nice circus, but if you're looking for some more authentic "ethnic" cuisine, you need to check out Aloha Grill on Clark Street. Check out the loco moco or one of their combination plate lunches. That is much more indicative of what the locals eat in the islands, rather than the touristy type stuff that Roy's serves (not that there's anything wrong with a nice piece of fruity fish).

Comparing Roy's menu with those of Aloha Grill and Tiki Terrace, I'd say Roy's distinguishing feature is the focus on fish (with correspondingly higher prices) and, as you suggest, a somewhat "fancier" presentation.

Is the "local diet" on the islands -- Hawaii in particular -- really so meat heavy?

Say what you will about Roy's, but they actually do a really nice job with Valentine's Day. We've gone there twice for Valentine's Day and both times have avoided any of the typical restaurant horror stories.

I haven't eaten at Roy's in a few years but I can distinctly remember that it was really a lovely and lush meal. It was, however, so fricking rich that i remember lolling around like a beached whale for at least 2 hours afterwards -- me and my dining companion pretty much sacked out on a bed and thought calming thoughts because it was that incredibly over the top. And i love rich food!

Maybe I'm sufficiently recovered for another bout.


Shannon

earthlydesire wrote:I haven't eaten at Roy's in a few years but I can distinctly remember that it was really a lovely and lush meal. It was, however, so fricking rich that i remember lolling around like a beached whale for at least 2 hours afterwards...

Yes, the sauces do tend toward the buttery, but still, at Roy's it's usually fish, and Tiki Terrace and Aloha Grill seem weighed heavily toward the land animal link in the food chain. But maybe this comparison is not fair, as Roy's seems definitely geared toward the more "fine dining" end of the spectrum.

Funny that stevez should compare it to "tourist food" -- I did kind of get that vibe when I was eating there, as it reminded me of similar fancy food dinners on various Carribean islands.

David Hammond wrote:Is the "local diet" on the islands -- Hawaii in particular -- really so meat heavy?

Yes, when it comes to the "Samoen" diet that you mentioned. Loco Moco is a pretty typical lunch in the islands.

You can get fresh corvina at Dirk's (well, as of a few weeks ago you could).

Actually, some of the better dishes i have had at Roys have been pork entrees. Having eaten in their restaurants in both New York and LA, I have found the slow braised pork and the ribs both to be great dishes.

I'm really a fan of their poke (ahi tatare), lightly dressed so that the flavor of the fish shines through and is served with piping potato chips. It's a great dish.

I'm a big fan of Aloha Grill. But, it is an apples and oranges comparison to Roy's - both are different restaurants. But, both are really good, IMO.

I've been a long-term fan of Roy's in Honululu and Waikoloa. Eating at the Chicago branch (which I've done 2-3 times) feels wrong to me. Maybe it's how local Roy's focus in a Hawaii, with a lot of catch of the day type fish specials. It's the right flavor for the islands. On the mainland, it really does taste too sweet.

Are people still going to the Tiki Terrace? I gave up on them a while ago.

bibi rose wrote:I've been a long-term fan of Roy's in Honululu and Waikoloa. Eating at the Chicago branch (which I've done 2-3 times) feels wrong to me. Maybe it's how local Roy's focus in a Hawaii, with a lot of catch of the day type fish specials. It's the right flavor for the islands. On the mainland, it really does taste too sweet.

I'd assume most of the Pacific Ocean fish that makes its way to Chicago has been frozen. I wonder, though, if Roy's fish is fresh-not-frozen even in Hawaii. You'd think, with all that water around, that the fish could be pulled in regularly and so never frozen, but I'm not sure the distribution system allows for that.

David Hammond wrote:

bibi rose wrote:I've been a long-term fan of Roy's in Honululu and Waikoloa. Eating at the Chicago branch (which I've done 2-3 times) feels wrong to me. Maybe it's how local Roy's focus in a Hawaii, with a lot of catch of the day type fish specials. It's the right flavor for the islands. On the mainland, it really does taste too sweet.

I'd assume most of the Pacific Ocean fish that makes its way to Chicago has been frozen. I wonder, though, if Roy's fish is fresh-not-frozen even in Hawaii. You'd think, with all that water around, that the fish could be pulled in regularly and so never frozen, but I'm not sure the distribution system allows for that.

I really doubt whether places like Roy's and Alan Wong's are serving a lot of frozen fish in Hawaii. Of course, some fish is frozen at sea, so there's that. Things like that miso butterfish could come from frozen without screwing up the texture too much. On the other hand, I eat a lot of sashimi in Hawaii and am frequently told something like, "It's right off the boat; still jumping." And it certainly seems to be.

The menu at a Roy's in Hawaii also normally includes a lot more varieties of fish than what I've seen on my visits to the Chicago place, some of them with names you never hear on the mainland.

Glad to see Roy's getting some LTH love. Have enjoyed it both times we were at the Chicago location, the one time we were at the Scottsdale location, and the time I was on business in Kauai. When mom-and-pop places deliver good food, it is to be celebrated; when national/international places deliver good food, it is also to be celebrated. While it's natural to root for the little guy, it's the customer experience that ought to matter, not who owns the place. Unless you're a stockholder.

On CNN tonight, they showed Barack Obama leaving a northside restaurant, and I'm pretty sure I recognized the purple awnings with white script. Makes perfect sense: Hawaiian.

bibi rose wrote:Are people still going to the Tiki Terrace? I gave up on them a while ago.

Have you tried their new location?

It is an improvement!

If you enjoy the food at Roys you will like the food at the new incarnation of Trader Vic's (if they ever get it open). We ate at the Vics in Scottsdale and were inpressed with the food. I always remember Trader Vic's food as a pupu platter-afterthought when they were at the palmer house. At the new incarnation they cook the fish or meat in a wood fired oven that looks like a big sake drum located in the middle of the restaurant. We enjoyed it quite a bit.

We ate at Roy's last night and it was very good in every way. For starters we ordered the "Maine lobster dim sum", steamed dumplings full of lobster morsels, and the "crunchy golden lobster potstickers", which were indeed crunchy but not that lobster-ey (we had asked our server when ordering and he helpfully described these differences, and he was spot on). We had the grilled endive salad, which was good, albeit unremarkable. For entrees, we had the blackened ahi and the braised short ribs. Both were excellent. I enjoy really good short ribs, and these were some of the best I've had. It was one "formed" piece, briefly grilled before serving, and it was very tender, not at all "stringy", and not overly fatty like short ribs sometimes can be. The accompanying red wine reduction was slightly sweet and tangy, just perfect for the dish. (This was the version on their prix fixe menu, not the "honey mustard" version on their a la carte menu.) For dessert, we had the hot chocolate melting souffle, which can be found a lot of places but this was a particularly good one. Our server (Avery) was outstanding, consistently helpful and friendly without being overly so. That prix fixe menu is also an excellent value, with three dishes for $35 and a nice selection of 2-3 options for each course. It was a very enjoyable dinner!

Roy's is a competent Asian Fusion place in the same way that Smith & Wollensky is a good steak house. I've been to both on a number of occasions but only return there when circumstances dictate (mostly birthday or group outings selected by others). My most recent Roy's experience was in Phoenix/Scottsdale. Food was good, but nowhere near worth the price. It's a 1-1/2 to 2 star experience that can be beaten by other non-chain offerings. I'd recommend Sola over Roy's any day.

Roy's isn't "Asian fusion"; they don't have any Chinese, Korean, Indian, or Thai dishes on the menu, let alone mix those cuisines with each other. Roy's serves food in a style that's Hawaiian/Polynesian - from the mid-Pacific, not Asia.

I've been to Sola. It's pretty good. I like Roy's at least as much. And Roy's offers a 3-course prix fixe menu for $35, a price you can't even approach at Sola. Excellent food with a bargain price available - Roy's.

nsxtasy wrote:Roy's isn't "Asian fusion"; they don't have any Chinese, Korean, Indian, or Thai dishes on the menu, let alone mix those cuisines with each other. Roy's serves food in a style that's Hawaiian/Polynesian - from the mid-Pacific, not Asia.

I've been to Sola. It's pretty good. I like Roy's at least as much. And Roy's offers a 3-course prix fixe menu for $35, a price you can't even approach at Sola. Excellent food at a bargain price - Roy's.

Looking at a menu with Thai Spiced Shumai Meatballs, Crunchy Golden Lobster Potstickers with Spicy Togarashi Miso Butter Sauce, Rock Shrimp with Malaysian Curry Aioli, Maine Lobster Dim Sum, and Szechwan Spiced Pork Ribs, Asian fusion seems like a perfectly reasonable description to me.

And Sola's 3-course prix fixe (Monday through Wednesday only) is $30.

Kennyz wrote:Looking at a menu with Thai Spiced Shumai Meatballs, Crunchy Golden Lobster Potstickers with Spicy Togarashi Miso Butter Sauce, Rock Shrimp with Malaysian Curry Aioli, Maine Lobster Dim Sum, and Szechwan Spiced Pork Ribs, Asian fusion seems like a perfectly reasonable description to me.

Touche!

Kennyz wrote:And Sola's 3-course prix fixe (Monday through Wednesday only) is $30.

Roy's 3-course deal is available seven days a week. The point remains, you don't have to pay a fortune to eat at Roy's.

I thought it was excellent.

FWIW, Roy's refers to themselves as "Hawaiian Fusion"


http://www.roysrestaurant.com

I love Roys!! I don't get down there as much as I'd like and it ain't exactly cheap, but I feel I always get a very good meal at a fair price. I love the seafood and the braised ribs especially. It may be a chain (albeit a pretty small one overall) but all the individual restaurants are run by a chef-co-owner so it's got a much more mom n pop feel than a chain owned by a big corporation. And Roy visits each place (at least the bigger outlets) each month.

--Dirk--

Went to Roy's last night for the Prix Fixe Mondays. Went with two friends, and had a piece of everything. A little bit of a flavor overload and by the end of the meal I just wanted a wheelbarrow out of there.

Sunrise at Haleakala Tuna, Yellowtail, Salmon, Avocado, Asparagus Crispy Roll, Spicy Butter Sauce


Crunchy Golden Lobster Potstickers Spicy Togarashi Miso Butter Sauce


Roasted Mussels and Clams Garlic, Ginger, Parsley, Clam & Bacon Dashi


Maine Lobster Dim Sum White Truffle Emulsion, Lobster Cream Sauce


Kalbi Grilled Hangar Steak Brown Rice Futomaki Roll, Almond & Red Pepper Chimichurri


Iron Seared Filet Mignon Roquefort Puff Pastry, Broccolini, Foie Gras & Honshimeji Pan Sauce


Crab Dynamite Crusted Nairagi Coconut Rice, Kim-Chee Lime Butter Sauce


Roy's Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé Raspberry Coulis, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream


Bread Pudding


Peanut Butter Crunch Bar

Thanks for bumping this thread, incite. I pass Roy's frequently on my way to Whole Foods around the corner. I had quickly judged it (and long dismissed it) as a tourist trap. Awnings can mislead, apparently.

I just realized who your photographic style makes me think of: Laura Letinsky, a Canadian-born Chicago-based photographer on the faculty at U of C. She often photographs white tabletops sometimes with very steep planes and high vanishing points (and, of course, food). Her (color) palette is softer than yours though still very white. Maybe you don't care, but here's a sampling of her work.

happy_stomach wrote:I just realized who your photographic style makes me think of: Laura Letinsky, a Canadian-born Chicago-based photographer on the faculty at U of C.

Very often on the internets, "I was thinking the same thing" means precisely the opposite. Here, you'll just have to take it on faith: I was thinking the exact same thing.

I had a memorable meal at Roy's Ko' Olina and would certainly give this outpost a shot. The particular menu described actually seems somewhat more playful from what I recall, possibly a good sign (even if it hasn't changed since Kenny's perusal of the 2009 version above).

Very cool! Thanks for the name, happy_stomach.

As far as chains go, I don't think you'll get much classier than Roy's. Their service is outstanding, and their food is pretty good for the price.