My sister and I dined at Graham Elliot last night and had a very nice experience. I had actually had a mid-June reservation, which I canceled, having lost a lot of my excitement about the place with all of the buzz and because of some of the tepid reviews I had read. This is just to say that I went in last night almost not wanting to like it.
My sister and I decided yesterday morning that we would meet for dinner, agreed that we wanted to try some place new. She suggested GE. I was surprised to find a slot on OpenTable, granted for 5:15. We may have been the first party seated, and we got the table right at the windows in the far corner of the restaurant. As tables filled up, the traffic inside reminded me a lot of Central Michel Richard in DC, without the open kitchen, of course—about the same number of tables, spacing, music and overall volume. I’m really glad we were seated where we were at GE. As someone who doesn’t like feeling like I’m in a sea of tables, especially in a dim space, I felt last night like we were more to ourselves, just our table and the big window.
I think the comparison GAF makes upthread to OTOM is a very apt one, though my preference is for GE. My sister said something toward the beginning of our meal (she’s not a foodie, despite my efforts to turn her into one, and is therefore someone who comments on her food in a way that is sometimes refreshingly naïve) that really captured what I liked most about GE. Taking her first bites of the Caesar salad, she said, “I feel like this is something I’ve eaten before, but it wasn’t a crouton.” She intended her comment as praise. It seems like what places like GE, OTOM and Central have set out to do is not wholly reimagine comfort food but rather reconfigure it.
(I’ll fight the temptation to diverge into a discussion of Roland Barthes here; I’ll save it perhaps for an LTH happy hour at GE, with a few London Callings in me, I’m sure I could talk about Barthes in relation to Caesar salad for hours!)The Caesar salad is an excellent example of reconfigured comfort food. Going in, I had no interest in trying this dish. Caesar salad is the quintessential comfort food for me, but because of my food OCD, I eat it in only one context: as my post-race food, only after big races and accompanied only be steak fries. I otherwise never eat it. I took the bite my sister offered only because I rarely refuse to try something at least once.

The dish completely surprised me. The “Twinkie”-crouton was perfect in flavor, texture and amount of filling. Also, the croutons last night were bigger than I had seen in pictures. I liked the play of scale on the plate. My sister was the one to point out the novelty of eating a salad in a way that you could actually control the size of the lettuce bite by bite since you were cutting your own romaine. I really liked this aspect of the dish, not having to deal with the usual too-large lettuce pieces that then have to be cut awkwardly.
For my cold starter, I had the beet salad, which was plated more handsomely than I had seen in pictures before.

This dish was probably the least impressive of our meal last night. The flavor combination was very familiar to me. Also, I didn’t think anything of the lightness of the chèvre. It was perfectly enjoyable, just not distinctive in any way.
For our hot starters, my sister had the artichoke (?) bisque, and I had the gnocchi.


The latter was really beautiful. I’m glad our waiter told me to break up the egg and mix everything well. I probably would have done it anyway but not as emphatically. I felt like the mixing was a little magic trick that transformed the dish. The first bite (well, and every one after that) was superb. I loved the play of flavors and textures and weights. Egg yolk is such a miraculous thing.
For the third course, we had the short rib stroganoff and the lamb with Israeli cous cous and pine nut salad.


The crème fraîche with the stroganoff overwhelmed and therefore turned me off to that dish. The lamb, however, was outstanding on all counts. It reminded me a little of a lamb dish I had at L’Etoile in Madison earlier this summer, but the dish at GE was far superior because there was a nuanced play of flavors but the taste of the meat remained front and center. It was cooked to a beautiful medium.
Both my sister and I were quite full by the end of the third course, so we chose to share a dessert, the recommended and well-documented dark chocolate brownie with peanut ice cream, brûléed banana and crushed chocolate malt balls.

I easily ate 2/3 of this as it was very yummy. I could have sworn that our waitress described the dish when it arrived at our table as having crushed malt balls, “commonly known as Milk Duds.” As soon as she left, I looked at my sister and whispered, “Whoppers?” My sister had not been listening to the waitress so she couldn’t tell me if I had heard incorrectly. It’s very possible I was wrong since I was in a few cocktails and some wine deep at that point. The possible misidentification of the candy was somewhat disturbing but ultimately did not cloud the dessert at all…as it was very yummy.
All in all, the food, drink, service and value were very, very good. I think I may have had an easier time than others assessing GE because I never made it to Avenues while Chef was there. What I know of his food—that is, direct experience—is limited to my experience yesterday. I look forward to eating from the fall menu and also seeing what it would be like to stop in and just sit at the bar. My sister and I saw Chef on the way out last night. I had never seen him in person before. GWiv is right. He is cherubic.