Pepper Relish: A New England Burger Topping?

This may be common knowledge-if so, I'm willing to be educated. Are sweet pepper relish and hot pepper relish de rigeur burger toppings in New England? Googling around, I found a post on the CH New England board from a transplanted New England guy who was looking for a mail-order source for pepper relish.

The first time I saw pepper relish was in New Hampshire in the 1970's. I am sure of this because, as all LTH-ers know, the first time for a taste of anything creates an indelible memory. It was served in a three-chambered stainless steel condiment caddy with my first New England Hamburger. I remember thinking that I liked it, and I made a habit of having my burgers and frappes at the place that served the red pepper relish all through college. Fast forward 30+ years and I'm offered that same condiment caddy at Shady Glen in Manchester, CT. Last weekend, my travels took me to my old stomping grounds in Litchfield County, CT, where I stopped for a burger at the Gooseboro Drive-In. Frankly, when I lived there, Gooseboro was never my #1 choice for burgers. That honor would go to Clamp's on Route 202 in New Milford. That may account for the fact that I don't recall the pepper relish at Gooseboro, though there are other theories floating around out there*.





Here is what I am talking about. This is a tray of three sweet relishes, one "spicy relish," the next "sweet pepper relish," and the third "sweet pickle relish."



We are not talking giardinera here, folks. This is some very sweet, minimally vinegary relish with mustard seeds stirred in.







My burger: nicely charred, with a side of excellent skin-on fries that never saw the freezer. Don't know about the burger meat, though, on that score--it could have been better.



I found a similar pepper relish identified as a Vermont Recipe in The New England Yankee Cookbook edited by Imogene Wolcott (1939). It calls for peppers (sweet and hot), onions, vinegar, lots of sugar, and celery seed. Most of the other pepper relishes I have come across include other vegetables, like corn or cabbage, and they do not call for cups and cups of sugar.

I'd be very interested to know more from those who have spent more time in New England than I have.

*The other reason that I may not remember the details of the Gooseboro experience is that there is a lot of competition for memory space where the Gooseboro is concerned. A friend of mine way back when was a Mariel Hemingway look-alike who was an aspiring journalist. She stopped into the Gooseboro one day and was approached by a vaguely familiar guy who tried to chat her up and get her number. She thought that he was the "annoying older brother" of a local fellow she knew, and she gave him the brush off by trying to be as boring and as ditzy as possible. It worked, and she left relieved, only to realize when she saw Saturday Night Live the next week that the "annoying older brother" was Bill Murray.

Gooseboro Drive-In
1293 Bantam Road
Bantam CT 06750
860-567-9356
(on route 202 north of Mt.Tom Pond)

Clamp's Hamburger Stand
Route 202
New Milford, CT
No phone
Seasonal: Late April-Early Sept.
11AM-2PM

Today's find at Quaker Diner, West Hartford, CT: Webber's Original Relish, Olde Tyme Pepper Recipe. Made by Webtel Eneterprises, West Hartford, CT.

Josephine wrote:Are sweet pepper relish and hot pepper relish de rigeur burger toppings in New England?

Josephine-

IMHO, the answer to that question is no. (And, FWIW, I was born and raised two towns over from the Gooseboro. )

Having said that, I have seen jars of pepper relish as a hamburger topping on the condiment tray at picnics. You're correct in characterizing its mildness. My maternal grandmother would jar a version of pepper relish which she prepared with peppers from her garden (God, that was good) -- but I don't think I recall it ever making it onto a hamburger in their house -- but then again, they were sausage folks. I have purchased it when I've found it in the store, but I personally would not characterize it as de rigeur by any stretch.

Growing up in Western New York, I was familiar with "hamburger relish" but almost never see it in Chicago. Whenever I travel I try to visit the local supermarkets' condiment aisle, mainly looking for new mustards. A very unscientific survey suggests hamburger relish is most common in the Eastern US but isn't restricted to New England. It seems to be more widely distributed in Canada; I've found Bick's Hamburger Relish from Ontario to British Columbia. I know I never found it in Seattle and this Chowhound thread suggests it's uncommon, though not unknown, in California.

If anyone is interested in buying this condiment in the Chicago area you should be able to find Tony Packo's Pickles & Peppers Relish (from Toledo, Ohio) at Meijer's. Pickles, peppers (red and Hungarian) and sugar are the main ingredients. No tomato, no HFCS.



Along the same lines, I've found Nance's Chili Sauce (from Macedon, New York) at Treasure Island but it's a little different—somewhat smoother and it contains tomato paste (but also no HFCS).

Rene G wrote:Along the same lines, I've found Nance's Chili Sauce (from Macedon, New York) at Treasure Island but it's a little different—somewhat smoother and it contains tomato paste (but also no HFCS).

Yes, chili sauce is similar, but a bit of a different animal. I don't recall ever putting it on burgers (although I've had done so with "hamburger relish"), just only eating the homemade variety straight outta the jar. Good stuff.

aschie30 wrote:

Rene G wrote:Along the same lines, I've found Nance's Chili Sauce (from Macedon, New York) at Treasure Island but it's a little different—somewhat smoother and it contains tomato paste (but also no HFCS).

Yes, chili sauce is similar, but a bit of a different animal.

Have you tried Nance's Chili Sauce? It's quite a bit different than, say, Heinz Chili Sauce—chunkier, sweeter, spicier, less tomato, closer to hamburger relish than to most supermarket chili sauces.

Rene G wrote:

aschie30 wrote:

Rene G wrote:Along the same lines, I've found Nance's Chili Sauce (from Macedon, New York) at Treasure Island but it's a little different—somewhat smoother and it contains tomato paste (but also no HFCS).

Yes, chili sauce is similar, but a bit of a different animal.

Have you tried Nance's Chili Sauce? It's quite a bit different than, say, Heinz Chili Sauce—chunkier, sweeter, spicier, less tomato, closer to hamburger relish than to most supermarket chili sauces.

No -- haven't tried Nance's. Will certainly do so at some point.

Rene G wrote: Whenever I travel I try to visit the local supermarkets' condiment aisle, mainly looking for new mustards.

Excellent suggestion. I'm more of a mustard fan myself, but in the interests of this investigation, a supermarket visit seemed like the next step. At "Big Y" in Manchester, CT I found the following brands of pepper relish:



Howard's Sweet Relish (Howard Foods, Danvers, Massachusetts) seems to be the simplest version of the condiment: red peppers, vinegar, HFCS, onions & spices. No tomato. This is the way I remember the New Hampshire version. And the most visible spice seems to be mustard seed. Howard's Hot Pepper Relish contains red and green peppers, vinegar, HFCS, onions, & spices. Again, no tomato. Note that the Howard's Jars both read: "Great on hamburgers, hotdogs, and in dips and dressings." [emphasis added].

CAINS Pepper Relish, "Barrel Cured" and "Since 1901," is the only relish in this bunch that contains pickles (1st ingredient), as well as peppers (2nd ingredient) and onions. It's made by M.A. Gedney Company, Chaska, Minnesota. Now, growing up in Minnesota, I never saw pepper relish. Would I have noticed such a thing as a child? Ja sure, you betcha !

ReneG wrote:If anyone is interested in buying this condiment in the Chicago area you should be able to find Tony Packo's Pickles & Peppers Relish (from Toledo, Ohio) at Meijer's. Pickles, peppers (red and Hungarian) and sugar are the main ingredients. No tomato, no HFCS.

Uncle Maynard's Hot Pepper Relish (Waterbury, Connecticut - GLS Foods) is the only one of this bunch that contains no HFCS. The ingredient statement specifies brown sugar and fruit juice along with fresh red and green bell peppers, onions, jalapenos, vinegar, soy sauce and natural spices. Sounds kinda fancy-schmantzy, though, don't you think?

aschie30 wrote:IMHO, the answer to that question is no. (And, FWIW, I was born and raised two towns over from the Gooseboro.)

It's worth a lot. As you know I am a big fan of Torrington-at least as it was a few years ago. I'm headed that way in a couple of weeks, so I may just have to do some further investigation at the local Stop & Shop.

Josephine wrote:

aschie30 wrote:IMHO, the answer to that question is no. (And, FWIW, I was born and raised two towns over from the Gooseboro.)

It's worth a lot. As you know I am a big fan of Torrington-at least as it was a few years ago. I'm headed that way in a couple of weeks, so I may just have to do some further investigation at the local Stop & Shop.

The Stop n Shop or the Big Y (if it's still around) should, at least, have the Cains relish, which I've had. I vaguely recall a red Vlasic version. But, by all means, please report back.

This is semi-unrelated, but....

There's a radio show on WNYC (in New York) called New Sounds that introduces its audience to new, often avant-garde music trends. The other night the show was entitled "Inadvertent Songs" (http://www.wnyc.org/shows/newsounds/episodes/2008/09/16), and one of the artists, Gabriel Kahane, produced a song that resonates with this thread about pepper relish...

Kahane's songs are based on random craigslist.org postings. If I remember correctly, one fantastic piece was about the narrator finding an outstanding sandwich spread that, years later, she couldn't find again and was constantly seeking. I believe the song was called "Two Years." From the descriptions provided within the narration, I have no doubt that the sandwich spread in question was New England's very own pepper relish.

Let's hope (if the narrator is still searching) she comes across this very informative discussion in her research!

artichoke wrote:Kahane's songs are based on random craigslist.org postings. If I remember correctly, one fantastic piece was about the narrator finding an outstanding sandwich spread that, years later, she couldn't find again and was constantly seeking. I believe the song was called "Two Years." From the descriptions provided within the narration, I have no doubt that the sandwich spread in question was New England's very own pepper relish.

Let's hope (if the narrator is still searching) she comes across this very informative discussion in her research!

Yes indeed, artichoke. I guess it takes an LTH-er to empathize with the driven quality of such a quest.

Truly excellent reference work Josaphine! You are right on the money. Growing up hot pepper relish was, along with Goulden's Spicy Brown Mustard, was the hot dog topping of choice. Cains hot pepper was the fist choice (we usually had sweet pepper in the fridge too, although those jars lasted 3 times longer) and Howard's was the second choice. I remember having to send a case of Cains to my mother when she moved to NC. I do not recall seeing any form of pepper relish on burgers growing up. I don't think I saw relish applied to a burger without special request until I came to Chicago and had burgers at The Wiener's Circle.