John Danza wrote:I hate to stir controversy, but my point is that there's more to being a top restaurant than being inventive with food. Every one of the places I named offer a truly fine dining experience with atmosphere, the ability to enjoy the people you're with, and inventive food. Every one of the places on my list provide that. I'm afraid that Schwa only provides one of the three things. Just my $0.02.

No reason to apologize, John. If Schwa isn't your thing, it isn't your thing. I also dislike loud restaurants, and I didn't find the volume objectionable on either night I was there, but that doesn't mean it wasn't for your meal. I do, however, object to the implication that Schwa lacks atmosphere, or that there's some fine dining ideal that is "proper" (not your words, but that's how they come across to me). Quite the contrary, I think it has a very distinct atmosphere and that to transplant Carlson to a more traditional fine dining setting would, in fact, detract from the experience. To suggest that the only thing Schwa has going for it is excellent food is to sell them short. The difference in atmosphere isn't an omission, it's a choice. And my point is that while you may not like that choice, I don't think it's fair to simply dismiss it.

But again, diff'rent strokes... there's no reason to apologize for not liking it.

I have always found the service at schwa to be excellent and the noise to be nothing out of the ordinary at a non-classical music place. While it may be difficult to make a reservation, I feel the experience is always splendid and the food audacious, savory, and incredible (and perhaps on the heavy side.) I truly think we are fortunate to have a gourmet restaurant where the (tiny) kitchen turns out 25 covers a night. You can't say that about baboo, blaring LZ and all!

Chico

I think I need to reiterate that it was not the music that was too loud. It was the din of the room itself. In my original post a few back, I suggested turning the music up!

For the record, I loved the food. Also, the service was excellent as well.

Having read the last few comments, I think I see the crux of the discussion. IMHO Schwa is a restaurant that is a combination of styles that typically do not go together. Carlson's food is truly inventive and would be classed as "fine dining". However, the atmosphere of the restaurant (loud music, loud talking, walls that won't absorb sound so everyone talks louder trying to be heard) is more in style with what I'll call "modernistic club" where you typically only see folks in their 20s (before you ask, I'm 48). I'm not sure that there are that many people who would flock to a "modernistic club" style of restaurant to eat the type of cuisine Carlson produces, as my experience with those types of places are that they sell run-of-the-mill fare.

John Danza wrote:I'm not sure that there are that many people who would flock to a "modernistic club" style of restaurant to eat the type of cuisine Carlson produces

Then why is it so hard to get a reservation???

stevez wrote:

John Danza wrote:I'm not sure that there are that many people who would flock to a "modernistic club" style of restaurant to eat the type of cuisine Carlson produces

Then why is it so hard to get a reservation???

Winking smiley-face noted, but the answer is: not necessarily because of popular demand!

John Danza wrote:For the record, I loved the food. Also, the service was excellent as well.

Having read the last few comments, I think I see the crux of the discussion. IMHO Schwa is a restaurant that is a combination of styles that typically do not go together. Carlson's food is truly inventive and would be classed as "fine dining". However, the atmosphere of the restaurant (loud music, loud talking, walls that won't absorb sound so everyone talks louder trying to be heard) is more in style with what I'll call "modernistic club" where you typically only see folks in their 20s (before you ask, I'm 48).

Interesting points, John but I have to respectfully disagree. I've always felt that the food and the space at Schwa are harmoniously paired. In fact, as I've wondered over the years what might come next for chef Carlson, I've felt that his style of cooking would be incongruous with a larger, more buttoned-down space. Of course, that's just my .02.

=R=

stevez wrote:

John Danza wrote:I'm not sure that there are that many people who would flock to a "modernistic club" style of restaurant to eat the type of cuisine Carlson produces

Then why is it so hard to get a reservation???

I think you know the answer on this one, hence the winky face. The place is so small you have to go outside to change your mind. The last Saturday that I was there, he did a total of 30 covers and the place is set to hold 24 people at one time.

Just one more thing on the noise level in the room. I did notice that it depends on where you sit, which surprised me for a room that size. I sat against the wall to the kitchen, under the window. In that position, I could barely hear the music but the conversation in the room was deafening. When I stood near the door at the other end of the room, the music was a roar. If I go back, I would ask to sit against the kitchen wall.

I like the atmosphere of Schwa quite a lot. I like the music playing, the informal service from the chefs, and the intimate space. I've had some of the best dishes I've ever eaten there. But, as they experiment quite a lot with flavor/texture combinations, and perhaps more so than a lot of other fine dining establishments do, there is more potential for there to be some misses. I think it's ok to acknowledge that some of the dishes are a disappointment. It helps to set more realistic expectations for people going there.

I'm not sure I'd call dishes "misses" unless they are sending out dishes that the chef is unhappy with. That doesn't mean that the client may not be disappointed But just because I don't like them, well, that's my taste, not necessarily something wrong with the dish.

I did not mean to come off as arrogant. So many restaurants have to compromise themselves to become successful businesses. Carlson has found a business model that works for him and which allows him to act as he wishes. He has accepted his space and style of service so he can do his style of food. Even proven famous chefs have to bow to their investors.

I ate at Lula, Schwa and Blackbird this week. Blackbird had the best food and service but Schwa was the most memorable because of the whole experience. Lula was not far behind but very very good.

Unless I'm misreading you, the idea that Lula gave Schwa (and Blackbird?) a run says a lot, both about Lula and the latter two. I mean, I've really loved what I've eaten at Blackbird, and at Schwa the experience (as such) ultimately made up for any perceived deficiencies. But that's one of the great underlying themes of the whole Forum: you can have a great meal for a lot less than $100+ a person. I guess the experience I took away from Schwa (and to a lesser extent, Blackbird) is that in retrospect, I'd rather have several great meals at Lula than one great enough meal at a high-end place.

Then again, some of you guys clearly have much deeper pockets than I!

I am really bummed out. We had reservations at Schwa for tomorrow evening. Last week Chef Carlson called having to cancel the reservation, but offered to seat us on the day before or after as long as we got back to him. After leaving multiple messages for him, no return call. Looks like another month or two wait to eat there as the restaurant VM is full again.

We look forward to getting there when we can. All these pictures and descriptions are killing me right now though.

msmre wrote:I am really bummed out. We had reservations at Schwa for tomorrow evening. Last week Chef Carlson called having to cancel the reservation, but offered to seat us on the day before or after as long as we got back to him. After leaving multiple messages for him, no return call.

Does this strike anybody as remotely acceptable? (The first part, maybe...but the second part, after doing the first part?)

riddlemay wrote:

msmre wrote:I am really bummed out. We had reservations at Schwa for tomorrow evening. Last week Chef Carlson called having to cancel the reservation, but offered to seat us on the day before or after as long as we got back to him. After leaving multiple messages for him, no return call.

Does this strike anybody as remotely acceptable? (The first part, maybe...but the second part, after doing the first part?)

As someone who is generally a defender of Schwa's (lack of a) reservation system, no, not remotely.

That said, is this a discussion we really want to resurrect?

It isn't my intention to call anyone out. I was rather expressing disappointment in missing out on the Schwa dining experience.

He is a busy guy and we'll get reservations later.

msmre wrote:It isn't my intention to call anyone out. I was rather expressing disappointment in missing out on the Schwa dining experience.

That's fine, msmre, but I'm allowed my reaction, too.

Dmnkly wrote:As someone who is generally a defender of Schwa's (lack of a) reservation system, no, not remotely.

That said, is this a discussion we really want to resurrect?

To simply re-tread our reactions to past conduct would be absolutely pointless, I agree. Msmre reported new conduct rising to a whole new level of egregiousness (a characterization I gather you agree with), warranting (IMO) a fresh response.

Again, my intention was to simply convey the disappointment with not tasting Chef Carlson's dishes that were so finely described and captured in photo in the thread. Everyone is free to their opinions however.

I got a call from Chef Carlson tonight and we are on for next week. We are so, so excited. I'll be sure to report back.

We went to Schwa last week and had a great time.
There were some new courses I haven't seen written up before.

For those dishes previously described, I will defer to those who
are better writers than myself and keep my description short.


Amuse Grapefruit Ice on Glass Ice Cube


Hendricks Gin A salad using the flavors of Hendricks gin.
This had cucumber ribbons, cucumber pearls,
tapioca soaked in rose and coriander all in a shallow
gelee. A side of juniper ice was the fourth flavor
As Mark Twain said about opera, it was a lot better than it sounds.
Gelled textures are amongst my least favorites, and Chef Carlson said
not to feel obligated to eat all the gel.
I liked it so much I ignored the chef and ate the whole thing.


French Onion Soup
A small cup of rich onion consomme.
Served with a brioche crouton covered with melted gruyere.
The plate was smeared with an onion sauce.
This was sick good.
I could eat this all day if given the opportunity.

Pad Thai As previously described, a take on pad thai, with thinly sliced jellyfish in place
of noodles. I enjoyed it.

Whitefish Roe Two types of whitefish roe - regular and dehydrated.
The plate had a spear of white asparagus and a piece of dehydrated bacon.
All on top of two sauces, one a beautiful, rich bacon sauce, the other
dark and garlicky.
My friend loved the dehydrated bacon.
Me? I'm sad anyone dehydrates bacon.
Overall, this was a great dish.

Cobia A red pepper sauce with Israeli couscous.
The cobia was smoked and served atop with a vegetable that now slips my mind.
Served with a small drink of pure watermelon juice
Good, but I didn't think it was particularly special.

Pine Cone Off menu choice. As previously described


Morels Morels in a rich mushroom foam/sauce with three pieces of fried
lamb brains.
Served with a poached quail egg, along side of a deep green sauce made from nasturtiums
We both thought this was great.

Rabbit Rabbit served two ways.
Some pieces of sous vide rabbit and a disk of rabbit rillete.
Served on a peach carpaccio with a piece of salsify.
Accompanied with a foam of Gumballhead beer from Three Floyds.
I'm a big fan of rabbit and this dish did not disappoint.

Cheese Humboldt Fog blue cheese with an ash of truffle on a graham
cracker crust.

Dessert A vanilla and parsnip custard.
Served with three pieces of candied sweetbreads and a dried parsnip chip
I've got a major sweet tooth, and this really worked for me.


On an unusual note, we are pretty sure we saw a group of three show up without
reservations and talk their way into a table. As the room was about 2/3 full,
that wouldn't be a big deal were it not for the difficult reservation system.
I'm not sure I would recommend this approach.

Overall, the occassion was very special and I look forward to a return trip.

Tom

msmre wrote:It isn't my intention to call anyone out. I was rather expressing disappointment in missing out on the Schwa dining experience.

He is a busy guy and we'll get reservations later.

Most chefs are busy guys, & that's why they pony up the money to hire a dedicated staff to answer the phone, listen to voicemail, return calls, etc. & generally provide the basic amenities to those who are financially & otherwise supporting them. Having dined there twice, I still don't understand why Schwa gets a pass on providing their guests with the basic amenities that other restaurants at this pricepoint do. The food is interesting at times, self-indulgent at others, but not quite worth the hoops that people jump through to get a seat there. Come on, if Tru, Trotter's, Alinea, or any other place not even at this pricepoint (say a chain or LEYE place) was canceling reservations on whim, not answering the phone, not returning calls, etc., would there not be some sort of uproar/backlash? I suppose people are enthralled with Schwa's self-proclaimed "DIY, punk rock" attitude, but to me (and several well regarded chefs in town that I know of) it's nothing more than pure arrogance & reliance on what they can get away with, not to mention cheaping out on things. Just hire someone to answer the phone for chrissakes, not to mention all the other things they're not spending money on that people expect at other restaurants of the same caliber!

I've come to refer to Schwa as "Baa," in reference to those who flock there like sheep. I just don't get it.

Oh yeah, forgot to say, longtime listener, 1st time caller. Welcome to the board & all that jazz.

The point of Schwa is that they do it their way. If money were Michael's driving factor, I am positive he could pick a position making 4 times as much as he does now. It is not supposed to be like other restaurants. If you like your experience or not you have to give him credit for that.

I appreciate the unique experience of Schwa. If someone else doesn't, that's cool with them. They aren't going to change to please everybody, which makes me happy.

msmre wrote:Again, my intention was to simply convey the disappointment with not tasting Chef Carlson's dishes that were so finely described and captured in photo in the thread. Everyone is free to their opinions however.

Absolutely. You are entitled not to be angry, just as I am entitled to be angry on your behalf even if you are not.

If LTH had a "mission statement," it would probably say something (in addition to being about sharing info with one another) about supporting the Chicago restaurant scene and making it stronger. This can sometimes be about calling attention to wonderful places that would not otherwise be widely known. It can also be about criticizing the failures of restaurants to deliver what they should in one department or another, not for the fun of criticizing, but in the hope that criticism can make things better. Schwa has been the beneficiary of both kinds of comment here. And I use the word not facetiously. It can benefit from criticism, if it chooses. If not, well...our collective criticism, even when not read or heeded by the chefs, proprietors, and managers who are the subject of it, may serve the purpose of establishing a standard of just what is acceptable in restaurant dining and what is not, and in so doing strengthen the Chicago restaurant scene.

I got a call from Chef Carlson tonight and we are on for next week. We are so, so excited. I'll be sure to report back.

Great news!

I managed, at least, to get a functioning answering machine on the line - and left a message with my reservation request for mid-september. But I forgot to leave a phone-number, since Iam calling from germany...from your experiences: do you think the request will be ignored for this reason? (I tried again several times - but the voicemail is always full...)

thanks
kai

krs wrote:I've come to refer to Schwa as "Baa," in reference to those who flock there like sheep. I just don't get it.

Welcome to the board, KRS!

Your thoughts on Schwa's setup are not unreasonable.

As for what draws some of us there, I can only speak for myself, but over the past few years I've dined at Alinea, twice at Trotter's, twice at Moto, twice at Schwa, and three times at Tru. Out of those ten meals, setting aside everything else and speaking purely in terms of how much I enjoyed my food, I'd say the two at Schwa came in at number two and three. I probably enjoyed Alinea a little more -- at more than double the price. Trotter's was incredibly sophisticated but, for the most part, lacked visceral appeal. Moto and Tru weren't even worth comparing.

It is possible to objectively feel that Carlson has produced some of the tastiest food in the city. And what's more, many of us here held that opinion long before Schwa was the hot reservation.

Because somebody disagrees with your assessment of Schwa's food doesn't mean they reached that conclusion based on Schwa's "DIY punk rock attitude". That's interesting -- fun at times and frustrating at others -- but if the food isn't on, it's meaningless, and some of us do, in fact, believe that the food is ON.

Point is, we're perfectly capable of thinking for ourselves, thanks.

Unless I am mistaken, I believe Trotter was suppossed to eat their again last night. So take that for what it is worth.

Baaa for now

TomH wrote:We went to Schwa last week and had a great time.
There were some new courses I haven't seen written up before.

That was a terrific write-up, Tom, thanks for the post!

My wife and I made it to Schwa last Friday evening after a long time looking forward to it. It was nothing short of spectacular. I went in with high expectations, boosted by many of the great text and photos in this thread. The menu consisted of

1.) Grapefruit-Black Truffle Amuse
2.) Hendrick's Gin Salad with cucumber gelee and gin/rosewater granita
3.) French Onion Soup with brioche topped with melted Gruyere.
4.) Jellyfish Pad Thai
5.) Off Menu Quail Egg Ravioli with shaved white truffle on top.
6.) Whitefish roe with black garlic and bacon puree and poached asparagus
7.) Kobia in red pepper couscous with watermelon juice.
8.) Morels and Lamb Brains
9.) Sous-vide rabbit with rabbit rillette and kidney
10.) Green curry and rootbeer cone
11.) Cheese course
12.) Parsnip custard, maple syrup and lavender foam with passionfruit and candied sweetbreads.

Highlights were the jellyfish pad thai, the rabbit rillette, the brioche with gruyere, and finally the ravioli, which as far as I remember, was the best thing that I have eaten. Chef Carlson brought out the white truffle and showed it off like a kid showing off his new bike. His enthusiasm for his food is clear as is his talent preparing it.

We swapped some wine with the table next to us, facilitated by Chef Carlson. We had a spectacular time and look forward to returning.

I'm new to posting, but I've been reading for several years. I'll try to contribute as much as possible, but my tastes, admittedly, are not very mature. I'm going to keep working on it.

My boyfriend and I try to go out about once a week to try a new place; last week was Aja Steak (he loved his fillet mignon; I thought my sushi was passable, but I prefer Meiji). This week is Graham Elliot.

Anyhow, my point. We got a reservation at Schwa for 8:30 on Halloween. He was so excited when someone answered the phone that he just said "yes, that's great!" without question. I think it might be the perfect time, as I imagine Schwa to be absent the myriad "sexy" costumes: nurse, cheerleader, cab driver, whatever. I realize this might not be a selling point for everyone.

What was curious was that they answered right away. This was about 10 minutes ago. Just a heads up, if you've been trying to get through, now may be a good time! Or maybe it's not hard to get through any more and this is silly news; it's entirely possibly that I wouldn't know, I'm quite a far cry from cutting edge. Happy to be here, nonetheless.

Meiji
623 W Randolph St
Chicago, IL 60661
(312) 887-9999

Aja Steak
660 N.State Street
Chicago, IL 60610
312-202-6050

Welcome, cakeless, and thanks for pointing out the open line at Schwa this afternoon. I, too, am a Meiji fan.

That open line is good news, if it turns out not to be an anomaly. Why, I might actually go there again sometime!