Borincuba - Puerto Rican & Cuban Cuisine

Borincuba, a simple Puerto Rican/Cuban storefront, opened Saturday in the former home of the Serbian bakery Fontana. I dropped in last night, and although the menu was limited to jibaritos, picadillo and lechon asada, plus a lone empanada and relleno de papa (the owners said they were wiped out the first day—a good sign), what we sampled was tasty.

Frank (Efrain) Aguilera and his sister Aracelia, the friendly, chatty owners, assured us that as they work out what the clientele wants, they’ll offer more of what’s listed on the menu—a standard lineup of classics from both cuisines. Ropa vieja, fricasse de pollo, pan con lechon, carne con papa, bistek, alcapurrias, mofongo, masitas de puerco, plus plantains, tostones, arroz con gandules, etc.

I can already guess that ‘what the clientele wants’ is empanadas. Despite the fact that the loner we had was sitting in an unlit warming box (Frank politely tried to dissuade us from ordering it by saying they were all out; someone else delivered it to us), the empanada packed a really nice (could it be fennel?) flavor. They make a small batch every day, and when they’re out, they’re out. I plan on calling in a to-go order next time, and eating ‘em while I wait for a table. (Frank suggested this tactic.)

We also ordered the jibarito and the lechon asada—both fine examples of the dishes. The garlicky aioli was punchy, the steak properly tender. Lechon asada was melt-tender and nicely seasoned, as well. The sides were a little weak—the arroz con gandules a tad dry, and the white rice with the lechon asada a bit…meh.

I’m looking forward to trying desserts—flan, arroz con leche, baked coconut—next time around, if they're available.

The place has good potential--the owners seem committed to a slow and steady start, and sticking to a limited, made-fresh-daily menu.

Borincuba
3424 W. Irving Park
Chicago, IL
773.866.2822

crrush wrote:Frank (Efrain) Aguilera and his sister Aracelia, the friendly, chatty owners, assured us that as they work out what the clientele wants, they’ll offer more of what’s listed on the menu—a standard lineup of classics from both cuisines. Ropa vieja, fricasse de pollo, pan con lechon, carne con papa, bistek, alcapurrias, mofongo, masitas de puerco, plus plantains, tostones, arroz con gandules, etc.

Ten days later, as Crrush anticipated Borincuba is starting to fill in the lineup, some of the specials on offer yesterday were Chuletas Fritas, Lechon Asado, Ropa Vieja and Fricase de Pollo. Fricase de Pollo for me, two tender slow cooked chicken thighs in a light tomato sauce with a scattering of potato and pimento olive, which came with bread and a choice of two, black beans and rice, arroz con gandules, tostones, maduros or salad.

I opted for salad, which came with a vinegary house made dressing with bits of red pepper, and black beans and rice. The black beans, which came in an individual serving container, would please both JeffB and the abuelitas as they were somewhat neutral and made without meat.* My comment stems from a thread last year where JeffB outlined it was considered bad luck to add meat, lard etc to black beans in Cuba.

I was amazed at the physical transformation of the place from when it was Fontana, they have done extensive remodeling and the space is now open, bright and there are 8-well spaced tables.** As Crrush mentioned the owners of Borincuba are extremely friendly.

One small quibble, when I order cafe con leche in a Cuban restaurant I expect scalded/boiled milk not steamed milk.

Enjoy,
Gary

*I did not ask about meat in the black beans, I am going on taste alone
** Might have only been 6-tables

I've only eaten here twice now and I'm already a devoted fan. I'm particularly inclined toward their jibarita entree, which is sort of a sandwich only it uses slices of sweet plantains in place of bread (similar to a jibarito which uses green plantain instead of sweet). I also adore the relleno de papas, the tasty hand-made empanadas and their wonderful homemade hot sauce (almost more of a "hot paste"). I'll be back again and again.

I finally sat down for a pleasant lunch at Borincuba: Ropa vieja for me and chuletas fritas for Cookie. The pork chops were the highlight: tender and perfectly spiced. I cleaned my plate of ropa vieja (a nice dish for one of the coldest days of the year), even though I thought the gravy flavor was lacking a little something (nothing a little hot sauce couldn't cure).

While I'd hardly peg this place as a destination, it certainly is the kind of place that every neighborhood needs: A small cafe with reasonably priced daily specials and a friendly group of people cooking and serving the food. I'll be back to try the lechon asado for sure.

Best,
Michael

I made it here this afternoon for a nice late lunch. The owner, Frank is very welcoming, and can make you feel like long friends on your first visit (lamenting about Chicago parking tickets, and extolling the virtues of Chicago tap water).

For the food, I was just going to have a quick sandwich, so I ordered the Cuban sandwich with lechon. They also offer one with steak. The bread was deliciously crispy, the ham and cheese tasty, the pickles plentiful, but the standout was the fresh-made lechon. They roast the pork daily, and they do a great job. The sandwich was bursting with plenty of the juicy, tender, well seasoned lechon, making this a great value, and nowhere near the modest lunch I had aims to find.



Also, the Frank suggested the Rellenas de Papas, a delicious crisy on the outside and soft on the inside sphere of fried mashed potaoes. These were also seasoned well, and served with a side of hot sauce that was redolent of smoky dried chili, but only slightly sneak-up-on-you hot.

And there went any hope of keeping calories to a minimum.

*Note. . I am still figuring out how to work the pictures. I used Image Shack, but couldn't figure out how to make it bigger.

Drover wrote:I've only eaten here twice now and I'm already a devoted fan. I'm particularly inclined toward their jibarita entree, which is sort of a sandwich only it uses slices of sweet plantains in place of bread (similar to a jibarito which uses green plantain instead of sweet.

Ive eaten here only once, but Ive got to put in a discordant note - I wasnt
that impressed at all. I went with the jibarito (as opposed to your jibarita),
and it was... just meh, IMHO. It was ok - the plantains were nicely mashed
and served as the oute layer etc, but it was just bland. Nothing really
to it. Especially with memories of Norka's much-lamented jibarito at
Cafe Salamera... it was not even on the same planet, IMHO, not even
the same sandwich, really. Just seemed like there wasnt much to it -
not much spice, not much garlicy-ness etc.

With the quality of a few other Cuban places nowadays, I dont know
how much Id be tempted to go back - El Cubanita, for example, seemed
like it was at a different level, to me.

I will say that the empanadas looked interesting - maybe, when passing
by the next time, I'll just stop in and pick up a couple of those to go.
They were out of those when I stopped by (a little after lunch a
few days ago).

c8w

c8w wrote:

Drover wrote:I've only eaten here twice now and I'm already a devoted fan. I'm particularly inclined toward their jibarita entree, which is sort of a sandwich only it uses slices of sweet plantains in place of bread (similar to a jibarito which uses green plantain instead of sweet.

Ive eaten here only once, but Ive got to put in a discordant note - I wasnt that impressed at all. I went with the jibarito (as opposed to your jibarita), and it was... just meh, IMHO. It was ok - the plantains were nicely mashed and served as the oute layer etc, but it was just bland. Nothing really to it. Especially with memories of Norka's much-lamented jibarito at Cafe Salamera... it was not even on the same planet, IMHO, not even the same sandwich, really. Just seemed like there wasnt much to it - not much spice, not much garlicy-ness etc.

With the quality of a few other Cuban places nowadays, I dont know how much Id be tempted to go back - El Cubanita, for example, seemed like it was at a different level, to me.

I will say that the empanadas looked interesting - maybe, when passing by the next time, I'll just stop in and pick up a couple of those to go. They were out of those when I stopped by (a little after lunch a few days ago).

c8w

After getting a chance to try out other menu options, I can see where you're coming from. The steak sandwich was disappointingly bland -- it certainly doesn't stack up to El Cubanito's. (Then again, I haven't found a steak sandwich anywhere in any form yet that does). I also wish they'd offer the ropa vieja in sandwich-only form since $12 seems a bit steep for the full platter. Finally, I wasn't too crazy about their breaded pork.

But I stand by the jibarita with its lightly garlicly mayo -- just enough garlic flavor to add some zing but not so much as to overwhelm the rest of the flavors -- and the tasty, fresh empenadas and rellenos de papas as appetizers. And I love their homemade hot sauce for dipping the appetizers into. Very tasty without being overwhelmingly hot. And their Cubano sandwich is bar none the best in the city -- better than El Cubanito, which I had thought served the best Cubano in town until I tried the one at Borincuba. they used shredded lechon instead of sliced -- and a lot of it too -- which gives it a slightly better texture and helps to moisten the bread on the inside (outside still stays nice and crunchy) which makes it easier to eat without tearing at the bread with your teeth like a Cro-Magnon.

I have become a pretty regular customer now both here and at El Cubanito. Which one I go to depends on what I'm in the mood for. They each have their strengths and weaknesses: El Cubanito clearly has the better steak sandwich and has great breakfast options too (Borincuba doesn't even open until 11am); Borincuba has a better Cubano (though El Cubanito's is certainly a contender), the lovely (IMO) jibarita (which El Cubanito does not offer), and a far broader menu that includes full sit-down meals and some pretty tasty appetizers.

After wanting to stop for some time (they seem to close early on weeknights and the metered parking spots along the side of the building are always full) I finally had the opportunity to stop in to pick up some dinner last night. The empenada was tasty but had been sitting for a while (it was 8pm...) and was hoping for some sauce to dip but not sure how these are usually served. I also tried the chicken fricasee (sp?) -- 2 semi boneless chicken thighs in a sauce similar to what I've experienced w. ropa vieja. A light but tasty tomato based sauce with onions / green olives. Oh and a few slices of potato. For my side I chose the Puerto Rican rice -- huge portion and very flavorful with pigeon peas. Also came with sweet plantains (3 large pieces) and a small salad that I didn't touch.

Overall a thumbs up for about 11 bucks and enough for 2 meals. Will definitly stop in again to try the jibarito!

anyone know if they are closed for good? they have not been open for weeks and the voicemail does not indicate they are on vacation.

gls wrote:anyone know if they are closed for good? they have not been open for weeks and the voicemail does not indicate they are on vacation.

I just drove by there today and the LED "Open" sign in the window was lit. Mysterious...

well, the mystery continues as they have been closed every night so far this week......

gls wrote:well, the mystery continues as they have been closed every night so far this week......

I think the mystery may be cleared up. I rolled by on the Irving Park bus this afternoon. The "Open" sign was lit -- and there was a big blue hand-written sign in the window announcing their new hours, namely that they now close at 6pm. So, better get there early if you want din-din from them.

gls wrote:well, the mystery continues as they have been closed every night so far this week......

They've changed their hours yet again (which, unfortunately, I take as not a good sign for their future prospects). They are now open until 8pm Monday through Saturday.

Looks as though Borincuba has closed for good. Windows were papered over when I drove by this afternoon with large signs proclaiming brasa roja coming soon, rotisserie chicken and steaks.

Someone has the exact same sign up, just blocks away, in a storefront on Elston, just north of Irving, east side of the street, roughly next door to the empanada joint.

Two of the same restaurant that close together? What gives?

Buddy

BuddyRoadhouse wrote:Someone has the exact same sign up, just blocks away, in a storefront on Elston, just north of Irving, east side of the street, roughly next door to the empanada joint.

Two of the same restaurant that close together? What gives?

Buddy

Nah, the one on Irving and Elston is the forthcoming 2nd location of El Llano.

That said, there is a Brasa Roja roughly four blocks north of the old Borincuba location on Montrose and approximately Kedzie. I don't know if they're moving or if they're opening a second location 4 blocks away. The second option would seem superfluous, but they are popular enough that I could see them pulling it off, having two locations just four blocks away.