Great Soups of Chicagoland: Tan Tan Men, Matsuya

An oft-repeated, lazy myth: the area around Wrigley Field is bereft of decent dining options. I have reiterated my list refuting this idea often over the past several baseball seasons and won't bore you again with it. A related issue is the tendency for folks to identify places that are literally miles from the ballpark as being close to Wrigley. No need, since Clark, Addison, Southport, Sheffield, Irving, Broadway and other streets very nearby the field have plenty of options -- West African, East African, Mexican, Thai, Japanese, Korean, etc.

No, I write to recommend an obscure dish from one of the neighborhood's Japanese-American holdouts from the days when Clark south of Wrigley had many such establishments. Now there are maybe 2 or 3, sort of, including Hamburger King (now more Korean), Nisei Lounge (a good bar, but Japanese-American in name alone), Shiroihana, and Matsutya.

Matsuya has a Japanese take on the ubiquitous Sichuan noodle dish, dan dan mein. The Matsuya version should not be confused with the "authentic" Beijing version of the stuff on hand at Katy's. Matsuya serves a ramen in the style of dan dan mein, describing it as "tan tan men" on the menu. It's a simple, comforting dish of good, wheaty ramen in a spicy, miso-fortified broth. On the side come accoutrements including pickled mushrooms, plump seaweed, and a dollop of the unique Japanese version of the ragu' that, for me, completes the dan dan mein trinity along with broth and noodle. For all I know, the Matsuya version comes out of a jar. A very sweet, slightly piquant, black, sesame-paste chock full of tiny dried BBQ'd pork "debris." Like they say at the not-too-distant Diner Grill, don't ask, just eat. At $7.50, the tan tan men might be a buck or two overpriced. And for sure, the bowl of soup is not the ideal dan dan mein of Katy's, nor is it the ideal spicy ramen of Santouka (in Mitsuwa), but good luck finding a better bowl of the Japanese-style Sichuan staple a short walk from Wrigley.

PS, when you order this, consider also the box-pressed Osaka-style sushi with saba (like a robust cinder block of sushi, a sushi for Chicago) and remember Tokyo Rose. She might have ordered the same not so long ago.

JeffB wrote:Matsuya serves a ramen in the style of dan dan mein, describing it as "tan tan men" on the menu.

Maybe this naming convention is a nod to the patrons of the restaurant that come from the area slightly south of the restaurant along Halsted . Seriously, Matsuya has long been one of my favorite restaurants in the area. I've never tried their version of dan dan mein, but I'll put it on my list for my next visit. Thanks for the heads up!

PS, after I wrote the above, I opened the Sun Times today to see that Nisei Lounge is shuttering. I must have felt a bad vibe about the block. It's a nice read, and gives a look at how much that stretch of Clark has changed in the past 10-20 years. For the worse, as far as I am concerned. Treasure Hamburger King and Matsuya. And yes, I know Chesters/Hamburger King and Nisei are actually around the corner on Sheffield. But it's a short stone's throw away.

Kitikata at Arlington Heights Rd. and Golf in Arlington Heights serves a very tasty version of the same, for a similar price. Spicy hot broth is a great winter dish there.

JeffB wrote:No, I write to recommend an obscure dish from one of the neighborhood's Japanese-American holdouts from the days when Clark south of Wrigley had many such establishments. Now there are maybe 2 or 3, sort of, including Hamburger King (now more Korean), Nisei Lounge (a good bar, but Japanese-American in name alone), Shiroihana, and Matsutya.

Jeff,

Hamburber King and Matsutya are two Chicago gems, well, ok, Hamburger King is a gem, Matsutya is an always solid very recommendable Japanese restaurant and one of my brides favorites. Nisei was an infrequent, but always interesting, watering hole option when I lived at Diversey and Hampden many a moon ago. I suppose I am now old enough to lament the passing, changing and various ways in which time has screwed with my old favorites, but I will try to resist, I'm not quite ready to reach my anecdotage [sic] stage.

JeffB wrote:Matsuya serves a ramen in the style of dan dan mein, describing it as "tan tan men" on the menu. It's a simple, comforting dish of good, wheaty ramen in a spicy, miso-fortified broth. On the side come accoutrements including pickled mushrooms, plump seaweed, and a dollop of the unique Japanese version of the ragu' that, for me, completes the dan dan mein trinity along with broth and noodle.

"tan tan men" is high on my list of must tries, though it will be hard to resist the charms of Matsutya's simple, yet delicious, salt grilled fish offerings.

Enjoy,
Gary

G Wiv wrote:tan tan men" is high on my list of must tries, though it will be hard to resist the charms of Matsutya's simple, yet delicious, salt grilled fish offerings.

I agree. I like Matsuya a lot; I don't go there nearly as often as I should. Every time I go, I tell myself to try more of the menu, but I always wind up ordering saba shioyaki (salt grilled mackerel) unless they're out of it. Next time, I'll order the tan tan men and get the saba to go.

I have to say, though, that I don't expect the tan tan men to be as good as the yet ca mein at Hamburger King. The yet ca mein is the best bowl of soup/noodles around for me, with the wonton noodles at Sun Wah a close second.