For those of you who wistfully remember La Cucina di Donatella when it was a take-out place in its infancy, you will be delighted by this little locationally challenged spot in Evanston. It's apparently been open since February, but has escaped notice on the forum; Heather22 mentioned it in passing:
Heather22 wrote: Speaking of picnics, has anyone tried the "Simple Gourmet" on Elmwood, across from the police department? They have to go sandwiches and prepared food as well as a few tables and chairs outside. I've walked in but have never tried anything, generally since when I walk past, I'm on my way home from working out.
While the food has a similar style to the prepared foods section of many natural food stores, it is decidedly better: freshly prepared, appropriately seasoned and made by someone who understands what they're doing. Even better, the place is filled with sample trays: before we even ordered, we'd tried an excellent Cobb Salad wrap with blue cheese and fresh veggies, and some kind of Avocado sandwich, also excellent. My favorite sample (which was hard to pass up as an order, but there was a wealth of choices) was the blue cheese and pear scone, chewy sweet fruit and bold cheese in a biscuitty pastry.
The place also has a good understanding of their limitations: foods are chilled for takeout, but can be heated in their microwave on request, infinitely preferable to foods languishing in steam tables. They also offer panini, house-made baked goods, and many good-looking salads as well as prepared cold sandwiches of both lunch meats and salad; two offerings I regret missing were a shredded vegetable salad with crispy prosciutto and a tuna salad with artichokes.
We tried the inescapable steak and blue cheese panini, including lovely veg - among them, I think, red onion, spinach and mushrooms. It was excellent, exactly balanced in flavor, gooey and rich. The 'spouse, a lover of all things pot-pie, opted for the turkey pot-pie: more of a cobbler, really, with a thick biscuit crust that had bits of the prosciutto studded throughout. The pot-pie filling was heavy with thick-cut vegetables that hadn't been cooked into submission, chunks of turkey breast, and the sauce was an herb-rich bechamel. Sitting outside on a brisk day, the richness was really appreciated. Including the two main courses, a potato-chip cookie and a chocolate rugalach, and two sodas, our lunch was not inexpensive at around $25 - but at least it felt worthwhile.


Other interesting offerings: a series of home-canned pickles, vegetables and giardinera (which looked terrific) and house-made soups which I don't recall, but which really looked interesting. It reminded me a bit of
Harry's In A Hurry in Atlanta, in that you could grab some food items to take home for dinner while you were picking up lunch: the refrigerator case also had a small selection of cheeses, etc. and you could pick up other components of a meal in the prepared-food case: asparagus viniagrette, the aforementioned salad, lamburgers, huge samosas, homemade breadsticks.
Not only is the location challenging (across from the police station and next to a dry-cleaner, just outside of the boundaries of Downtown Evanston) but the lack of indoor seating - not to mention the name (I don't know about you, but I'm automatically suspicious of any eatery who titles themselves either "simple" or "gourmet") may make for a bumpy ride for this place. It was refreshing to find, at least in our experience, the moniker to be quite accurate.
Simple Gourmet
1459 Elmwood Ave
Evanston, IL 60201
(847) 332-2100