I've dined at OdT twice now, once shortly after it opened, and then last night. The only consistencies on both visits were the slow and distant service and the corporate-hotel atmosphere. That's not to say it's bad -- in fact, I think it's pretty good, but don't go there expecting to find a boutique Italian restaurant because that's not at all what they are aiming for. And as far as hotel dining goes (especially as far as suburban hotels), I think they're better than most.

In terms of food, I recall enjoying it much more on my first visit, although that's not to say that the food was bad last evening. Last night, I started out with a beet salad (golden beets), served with ricotta salata, walnuts, walnut oil and watercress. My only real complaint with this dish was the small excess of vinegar. Otherwise, it was the standard (and respected) combination of beets and walnuts, although I also might have preferred a beet variety. The ricotta salata was certainly a welcome addition.

I tasted the minestrone which I thought was one of the better versions of this soup that I have tasted. The Italian chopped salad was also nice (perhaps too much vinaigrette) -- and very large though, enough for at least two.

My Tramonto's pizza had good flavors -- mozzarella, tomato, arugula, garlic and olives (there was supposed to be truffle oil -- I think they missed it) but the crust was way too chewy. On my previous visit, I tried the pizza and the crust was much better. I shouldn't have to give my teeth a workout like a dog eating a rawhide bone.

The linguine with Littleneck Clams in a red tomato sauce was very tasty -- a simple, yet delicious presentation. The sauce had such fresh flavors and the pasta was cooked just right.

Braised monkfish with roasted peppers and tomatoes was fine, nothing exciting.

For dessert, I had the Torta Cioccolato, which was a moist thin layer of chocolate cake studded with hazelnuts, topped with a chocolate mousse (with some hazelnut flavor) and served with three dollar-coin sized banana pieces and hazelnut gelato. The gelato was a bit mild in flavor, but the texture was smooth. The cake portion was exceptional, although the mousse was a little too sweet and not dark enough for my taste. Overall, a solid dessert though.

When leaving, we (and I believe all diners) were treated to a small takeout bag containing an apple bran muffin and a pain au chocolat -- very nice gesture to say the least.

I will say that the service has disappointed me on both occasions. Pacing between courses was a major issue on both visits. Visits by the waiter can also be a little slow when it's crowded.

In terms of where OdT is headed, hopefully not the direction of Corner Bakery, which started out so nice and then became big box bakery so quickly. But I believe it's important to note that they will be opening up a new location in Rosemont shortly, so who knows where they are headed after that.

I too, dined again at OdT this week (for the first time in a long time) and felt that things had improved marginally, although some of that may be attributable to my lowered expectations. I went in expecting conventional, red-sauce-esque food and that expectation was met, head-on.

For us, service was excellent but I'll state for the record that we were waited on by a couple of very professional servers who we know from the FOH at another restaurant. They always take great care of us.

The slight uptick in food was due, I believe, to 2 factors. First of all, this was the first time I'd eaten at OdT during produce season and I will say that there was a nice emphasis on locally-sourced produce (Nichols Farm, etc.). Such offerings were all over the menu, often identified by their origins. Secondly, just like at some of my favorite restaurants, several other ingredients were identified by their pedigrees. On this night the heirloom tomato salad transcended just about everything else we ate and the Berkshire pork chop had the tell-tale intense and slightly gamey flavor that distinguishes it.

I can't say that I was wowed or compelled to the point of returning soon but I was impressed by the fact that even at 9 pm on a Wednesday, the dining room was very full. This place seems to have found its niche and its audience. Quality-wise and stature-wise, it's far cry from Tru -- and I can't believe that everyone involved is happy about that -- but it's a business with a lot of customers and I'm sure that's making some of the interested parties very happy. Mission accomplished, so to speak.

=R=

ronnie_suburban wrote: . . . this was the first time I'd eaten at OdT during produce season and I will say that there was a nice emphasis on locally-sourced produce (Nichols Farm, etc.). Such offerings were all over the menu, often identified by their origins.

I neglected to mention this in my post, and I'm glad you brought it up. And I agree, an impressive selection of local offerings.

I cannot speak to how this place has been, but as to how it is now, well, I really liked our experience the other night. Of course, I'm a real sucker for any place that puts a chalk board out listing its farmers, but I will also say that I very much more enjoyed OdT better than North Pond, which I visited the nigt previous.

Firstly, I will agree with Gwiv above that the TVs were not really appropriate for the space. Is this because so many people now eat in front of the television at home? Does this make us feel more comfy?

Now, food, the bread's been praised, but I actually did not love it. It looked better than it tasted. It needed a harder crust and a softer crumb. We also did not get any olives to nibble. That aside, I liked a lot everything else I tasted. The one thing that worried me, I've never been to Trio (under Tramonto) or Tru, but I had been a few times to Brassierie T. My overwhelming memory of those meals were of menus that sounded so good then tasted so flat. There was a lot I liked on this menu. I was afraid the same would happen.

No. I decided I had to try the tomato/burrata salad. For one thing, I had to compare against a very mediocre version the night before; for another, I wanted to try the burrata. Needless to say, as this is going, these tomatoes just blew by North Ponds (whose were killed by slicing/friding ahead of time). The burrata may have been the lead actor, but the tomato chorus stole the show.

Thought my entree of chicken giardinara, or chicken cutlet with pickled vegetables was very well done (and huge); really liked the braised short ribs I tried, and really, really liked the seared whitefish--exceedingly fresh fish cooked just absolutely right, the thinnest venner of skin crisp and then an inside just to the right side of set.

I had no problems at all with the desserts, especially liked that they featured local fruit. The crostada had a buttery shortbread crust that you cannot not like, blueberry conserva on the cheesecake made that one worth ordering, and like with SteveZ's meal above, the birthday girl got a small chunk of flourless chocolate cake. We liked ours.

I would like to know that the commitment to local/seasonal is not a fad for the tomato season. There were many displays of canned product. Maybe they will be used come winter. I do not have high expectations that this place will be like Vie, where the menu is always local, but I can sure hope. Right now, the way the menu read, with its ample us of tomatoes, greens, peaches, chantrelles, etc., it seemed very in the spirit of a true Italian restaurant.

Vital Information wrote:Firstly, I will agree with Gwiv above that the TVs were not really appropriate for the space. Is this because so many people now eat in front of the television at home? Does this make us feel more comfy?

Personally, I'd guess it's a concession to the solo hotel diner.
For me? No. I'll always take a book.

I'll make this quick. My parents went here just after they opened and had been raving about it ever since, so I made the drive out to Tramanto last weekend, and I wish I had stayed home and made dinner myself.

The Bread was the only thing enjoyable about my meal. The Calamari, though I normally prefer grilled, was soggy and had absolutely no flavor at all. I think it's the first time my family left Calamari on the plate.

For dinner, I had a Capellini with Onions, Eggplant, and Pecorino. It's the single worst dish I've ever had in a restaurant. The pasta was grossly over cooked. The "eggplant" was just the seeds and core, which was cooked down to a mush as well. I had about 3 bites and then spend the next 5 minutes eating the cheese and onions out of the dish before sending it back.

My brother had the same dish as me and ended up doing the same thing. My parents also remarked how flavorless their food was as well, and could not understand how this place's quality could have dropped off so quickly.

The brick paved ceiling was nice.

Has anyone eaten here recently? Is it still in this sort of not as great mode?

I had worked at the Osteria since it opened. Have things changed since then? Yes.

The Osteria was first conceived to be "Casual-High End". We had an amazing 2 1/2 week training period where we were shown all the small things we should do to make the guest feel like they were having a great dining experience.

The chefs were top-notch. The food they churned out was phenomenal and somewhat adventurous.

Our wine list was amazing. We were marketed as a WINE restaurant and therefore we had a very limited bar menu. We were told to not push any drinks but wine.

Once the restaurant opened, things slowly began to change. The corporate gentleman who had taught us the finer things of dining was "let go to pursue other options". With him gone, we weren't pushed to keep things as "high class".

Since we were the hotel restaurant, we had a lot of traffic coming from hotel guests. They were walking in in shorts and flip flops and they felt that we were too stuffy and made them feel uncomfortable. They didn't enjoy us pulling out their chairs and laying napkins in their lap.

Apparently the North Shore has a lot of people that cannot handle eating adventurous foods. There were a lot of, "Don't you have Fettuccine Alfredo??" and other silly questions. Also, a lot of Jewish people don't tend to order the 7 different kids of pork salumi that we used to offer. The chefs would also easily tire of hearing from a guest, "I want a chopped salad, but I want that with no avocado, no bleu cheese, dressing on the side."

People WERE intimidated by the wine list. They would say, "Can't I just have Bud Light?" "No, we don't offer Bud Light," we would reply. Eventually enough customers complained that we now have a full bar. Not quite was Belinda Chang was going for before she jumped ship.

The Osteria is a hotel restaurant and fortunately it cannot escape that fact. It's obviously a viable restaurant or they wouldn't be building a second one in Rosemont.

I can't vouch for the current service as I don't work there anymore.

I still don't understand how a place in Wheeling can call itself "North Shore."

Also, a lot of Jewish people don't tend to order the 7 different kids of pork salumi that we used to offer.

I have a number of responses to this, but will settle for: may I introduce you to the LTHForum? You might just be happier here.

Santander wrote:

osteria wrote:Also, a lot of Jewish people don't tend to order the 7 different kids of pork salumi that we used to offer.

I have a number of responses to this, but will settle for: may I introduce you to the LTHForum? You might just be happier here.

LOL . . . Rabbis aside, this Jew would have probably ordered them if they had actually been made in house, as they were touted to be in the multiple press releases I was sent before the restaurant's opening. When I learned that none of them were made in-house, I decided not to bother.

=R=

osteria wrote:Apparently the North Shore has a lot of people that cannot handle eating adventurous foods.

Here's my question: has the same experience documented in this user's post held true at Tramanto's steak house? Given the number of high-end steak houses in the area, I wonder if area residents are more apt to accept "casual high-end" only for certain restaurant concepts and not others. This would not surprise me. How many "contemporary" Italian, French, Spanish, et al. restaurants in the area can you name? Right across the street, Solara still sits uninhabited...

chezbrad wrote:

osteria wrote:Apparently the North Shore has a lot of people that cannot handle eating adventurous foods.

Here's my question: has the same experience documented in this user's post held true at Tramanto's steak house? Given the number of high-end steak houses in the area, I wonder if area residents are more apt to accept "casual high-end" only for certain restaurant concepts and not others. This would not surprise me. How many "contemporary" Italian, French, Spanish, et al. restaurants in the area can you name? Right across the street, Solara still sits uninhabited...

I wonder about the steak house too. And do they have the RT Lounge there as listed on the website? The RT Lounge is the one I could actually have some use for, although menu is irritating with the patronizing explanation of "sushi."

To me, the addition of "North Shore" to this discussion-- as suggested above-- adds to the perplexity. You have one set of suburban restaurant problems on the North Shore and another in the western suburbs, which is what Wheeling really is. For one thing, you have quite a few hotel rooms in the western suburbs; on the North Shore, not so much. My go-to Italian restaurant in the western suburbs is Cafe Lucci-- although I see their website also describes them as being on the North Shore. (What is up with that?) Every time I go in there, it's a combination of locals and people from nearby hotels. The hotels shuttle people over on a regular basis. Because of all this, plus lower rents, it seems to me like the western suburbs are probably an easier area in which to keep any kind of restaurant going but maybe a little more dependent on a "tourist" or out-of-towner crowd.

bibi rose wrote:To me, the addition of "North Shore" to this discussion-- as suggested above-- adds to the perplexity. You have one set of suburban restaurant problems on the North Shore and another in the western suburbs, which is what Wheeling really is. For one thing, you have quite a few hotel rooms in the western suburbs; on the North Shore, not so much. My go-to Italian restaurant in the western suburbs is Cafe Lucci-- although I see their website also describes them as being on the North Shore. (What is up with that?)

North Shore is a meme which has been trying to spread its way west for ages, because of its cache.

It used to be limited to those actually on the, well, shore, but at this point I might have to grant it anything east of the Des Plaines River or perhaps Milwaukee or I-294. The Wikipedia article limits it to the shoreline, but admits that Deerfield, Gleview, Northbrook fit well (this map makes that possible by inclusion of the Skokie Valley branch of the North Shore railway line, a bit of which survives as the Swift/Yellow Line).

I would not call Wheeling one of the "Western Suburbs". "Northwest Suburbs" perhaps, but that's a huge swath that covers, in my opinion at least, an arc from wherever North Shore ends on the west to, probably, Irving Park on the south, to encompass Schaumburg and Streamwood, although that would also take in Elgin, which is, well, clearly Western. You might have to put the dividing line at I-90, although Schaumburg is usually called Northwest Suburbs.

Western, I'd put between I-90 and I-88, with stuff south of there as Southwest Suburbs.

I appreciate osteria's post - even though I'm not in the geographic region to visit that location, I have friends up in that area who do stay at that hotel occasionally, and it's nice to get some insight. And as somebody who would probably stay at that Westin if I was coming from out of town on a business trip to that area, I can understand the tension it causes the restaurant. But there are restaurants out there that can handle that kind of tension better than what it appears is happening at ODT. Haray Caray's, while not my personal choice, seems to do well in its hotel outposts both in Rosemont and now in Lombard - the Lombard location also being in a new Westin.

Regarding the North Shore, having lived the first 30 years of my life in Wilmette, I'm probably biased. But I have always considered it any suburb touching a suburb touching the lake, and stopping at Great Lakes Naval Base. So Glenview, Northbrook, Deerfield, Riverwoods - all yes. But Morton Grove, Prospect Heights, Wheeling, etc. - nope.

It's the North Shore if you're selling, the northwest suburbs if you're buying. Wheeling and Prospect Heights have officially designated themselves as Chicago's North Suburbs.

So basically you have the North Shore and then you have Greater Woodfield, which covers everything west till you get to the Fox River.

On the subject of the North Shore, I'm a purist. If it's not touching the lake, it's not on the shore.

=R=

landlocked in Deerfield, inc.

re: osteria's post ...

it really seems someone screwed the pooch on the market research if they were so surprised by the Jewish folk, people in flip-flops from the hotel, even if it is 'upscale' for the 'burbs. Jews in the north surburbs ? Who'd a thunk it !

I, for one, HATE stuffy hotel restaurants. Every time I've been out of town on business I've avoided them as my work is business casual and I can basically wear jeans every day. A super formal place makes you feel like even more of a dork if you're by yourself.

With Tramonto apparently basing his business outside of the city proper I think it's something he's going to have to reckon with.

This thread really is beginning the befuddle me.

Wheeling a western suburb? The dumbing down of OdT is a result of Wheeling being an unsophisticated restaurant market? That makes no sense at all.

Corporate hotel chain. Need to provide hotel guest 7x24 cafe. In the words of one of Chicago's finest - form follows function, and OdT is a hotel cafe, and is gradually going to act more and more like one.

And, tem, while I share your distaste for stuffy hotel restos, that really only applies for me when the food is mediocre and over-priced. If the food is really good, then it is a mazel indeed. And as for Jews not ordering pork products, help me out here, Ronnie, where is the nearest wildly successful barbecue joint?

Lastly, I cannot see how any of OdT's issues would apply to the steakhouse, since it is not being required to serve as a hotel cafe. Anyway, steakhouses are already dumbed down by definition aren't they? Hotel guest goes into door, and immediately gets that this is a swanky steakhouse with all that means. Where is the issue?

Anyway, someone should ask Graham Bowles or Sarah Stegner about the conflicts inherent in trying to run a really great restaurant, while also being the hotel dining room - it is always a challenge in a lot of ways, including the need to feed so many people, and the need to provide meals for people who just want something to eat now and without a lot of fuss and have zero interest in any culinary aspirations.

dicksond wrote:And, tem, while I share your distaste for stuffy hotel restos, that really only applies for me when the food is mediocre and over-priced. If the food is really good, then it is a mazel indeed. And as for Jews not ordering pork products, help me out here, Ronnie, where is the nearest wildly successful barbecue joint?

Is that a trick question?

Being jewish and having grown up in Glencoe (amongst many other Jews), I can say that I know very few of my faith who actually keep kosher or avoid pork. I just can't believe that Wheeling is such a hotbed of judaism that it is a factor in the non-ordering of pork charcuterie/salume at Osteria. In fact, if I had to offer a theory, I'd be more inclined to guess that it is a health issue. Folks 'on the shore' like to keep fit and they don't see cured meat products as being a part of that lifestyle.

I have no idea how successful the foodservice ventures are at the Westin North Shore but I do wonder if the scheme there could be more successful if a separate coffee shop were part of it. That way, the Osteria wouldn't have to attempt to satisfy multiple audiences and those seeking "plain" food would also have a place to comfortably dine inside the hotel. From the outside looking in, that seems to be the missing piece of the puzzle.

=R=

Doesn't seem that banqueting is a big priority at present; also, they do not cater, as per Gale Gand, with whom I was lucky enough to work last Sunday at the Botanic Garden.

The magnitude of their operation (which will be expanding shortly to Schaumburg) could be better compared to Gordon Ramsay's affiliation with The London in NYC and LA than Ms. Stegner's position at the Ritz-Carlton or ChefGEB's at the Peninsula. Keep in mind that ChefGEB was not the EC there, and didn't have to deal with any of the other restos at the property. I would think that Ramsay is the model for what Tramonto/Gand are trying to do.

BTW, Chef Gand is a hoot, and so are her kids, all three of whom participated in the demo - 11-year-old Gio Tramonto, and her 3-year-old twin girls, who helped make a vanilla bean panna cotta with two fruit sauces, strawberry and rhubarb. Nice people - VERY cute kids!

ronnie_suburban wrote:I have no idea how successful the foodservice ventures are at the Westin North Shore but I do wonder if the scheme there could be more successful if a separate coffee shop were part of it. That way, the Osteria wouldn't have to attempt to satisfy multiple audiences and those seeking "plain" food would also have a place to comfortably dine inside the hotel. From the outside looking in, that seems to be the missing piece of the puzzle.

=R=

I agree. I also think that absent a non-demanding restaurant in the hotel, a lot of guests from the Westin will walk over to Claim Jumper or RAM, and it's a hop, skip and a jump to a bunch of places like Benihana or Buca di Beppo. Unlike on the actual North Shore, there are a lot of out-of-towners in Wheeling (and nearby) looking for that type of meal.

sundevilpeg wrote:Doesn't seem that banqueting is a big priority at present

The hotel has its own banquet kitchens, which are totally separate.

For whatever reason, the Gale Gand quick-serve coffee shop closed pretty quickly.

sundevilpeg wrote:
The magnitude of their operation (which will be expanding shortly to Schaumburg) could be better compared to Gordon Ramsay's affiliation with The London in NYC and LA than Ms. Stegner's position at the Ritz-Carlton or ChefGEB's at the Peninsula.

Regarding the Schaumburg expansion, I'd just like to point out that Schaumburg is getting a Tramonto's Steak and Seafood, while Rosemont is getting the Osteria.

I wish we were getting the Osteria. I haven't made it out to the Wheeling location yet, but the thought of another steak/seafood place in the Woodfield area is disappointing, even if it is run by Tramonto/Gand. Within 2 miles of the new Tramonto restaurant (located in the Hyatt Woodfield) are the following steak and seafood places:

Sam and Harry's
Morton's
Pete Miller's
Wildfire
Davis Street Fish Market
Shaw's Crab House
McCormick & Schmick's

That's a lot of options for steaks and seafood. Perhaps Osteria would stand out more.

Kim

Yeah, but within half a mile of the Rosemont location Osteria is going into is Gibson's, Morton's, and Gianotti's. Carlucci's also has steaks and is pretty close by.

I think Osteria will probably stand out more on that strip of River Rd. than it would in Schaumburg. Amazingly.

gleam wrote:Yeah, but within half a mile of the Rosemont location Osteria is going into is Gibson's, Morton's, and Gianotti's. Carlucci's also has steaks and is pretty close by.

I think Osteria will probably stand out more on that strip of River Rd. than it would in Schaumburg. Amazingly.

You forgot Harry Caray's, which along with Giannotti's and Carlucci also serves Italian food.

Both Schaumburg and Rosemont have a lot of Italian places, too, though they tend to be more red-sauce.

LAZ wrote:
Both Schaumburg and Rosemont have a lot of Italian places, too, though they tend to be more red-sauce.

True (there's Rosebud, Olive Garden, and Maggiano's all within 2 miles of the Hyatt) , and since Osteria is not trying to be a "red-sauce" place, that's why I thought it would stand out.

Kim

Dined at the Osteria tonight. I thought the menu reflected the change of seasons since the last time I ate there. I had the butternut squash soup which was a little sweet at first but then fantastic. We shared the braised duck cavatappi (?), very good pasta. ANd then I had the salmon with beets and spinach which was the least exciting thing of the night. I wish I had ordered the wine-braised short ribs which I know are really good. Husband had the zuppa di pesce. Nice job on that one. Not bad overall. I have kids and they both enjoyed it (spaghetti and meatballs). I like this place in general, especially for an early family dinner. Good wines and I like the quartino, mezzolitre way of ordering.

It appears the Wheeling location might be closing next year due to economic troubles or something.

I read this on Chicago Tribune's "The Stew": http://leisureblogs.chicagotribune.com/thestew/2008/10/tramonto-gand-p.html

I haven't tried it yet even though I live about 3 minutes from there, mainly because I can't afford it. Might have to try it before it moves though!

chewonthat wrote:It appears the Wheeling location might be closing next year due to economic troubles or something.

I read this on Chicago Tribune's "The Stew": http://leisureblogs.chicagotribune.com/thestew/2008/10/tramonto-gand-p.html

I haven't tried it yet even though I live about 3 minutes from there, mainly because I can't afford it. Might have to try it before it moves though!

Well, Tramonto and Gand are out, as Cenitare has decided to jettison them. My guess is that the restaurants will be reconcepted and reopened once the contract expires.

Hindsight is 20/20 but this whole venture seemed doomed from the beginning. I think they really misread their prospective audience and way over-estimated the draw of these chefs -- especially given the location.

My guess is that more conventional restaurants are on the horizon at the Westin Wheeling.

=R=