Manhattan, drink of the week

The "Manhattan" was named Drink of the Week by the Centerstage column in the Sun-Times.
http://www.suntimes.com/entertainment/1 ... 22.article

"I knew I couldn't carry on as a Chicagoan with any sort of authority on cocktails without heading to the West Town watering hole and ordering one -- despite the fact that Manhattans usually make me cringe. The combination of bourbon and grenadine always has reminded me of cough syrup. But now I'm convinced it's not the drink's fault; true to its accolades, Matchbox's version made me a believer."

I think the author can stop worrying about being regarded as "any sort of authority on cocktails." Please tell me that the Matchbox does not make Manhattans with Bourbon and grenadine.

Cheers, Jen

Edited to add: In the online version of the article, the author does state that the Matchbox uses two vermouths, plus "they have perfected the grenadine pour."

Nice. She doesn't even know what's in a manhattan.

JenM wrote:Please tell me that the Matchbox does not make Manhattans with Bourbon and grenadine.

The Matchbox pours in a little juice from the container that the cherries are in, which I believe is cherry-infused brandy (the cherries are soaked in brandy). Definitely no grenadine.

Yes, they add brandy, something which I learned from this very board is a geographical variation borrowed from our neighbors to the north. From the linked thread:

jcat wrote:At the risk of tipping this toward the "something to drink" forum, I must stand up in defense of the brandy Manhattan as a regional specialty.

...

I'm a bourbon fan, too, and feel no need commit either way. But I do think the brandy Manhattan is quite excellent, especially on a chilly night (on occasion I prefer mine on the way to "perfect," finding the dry vermouth a nice balance to the brandy, but that depends on the day).

Even Wikipedia's entry on the Manhattan notes the Wisconsin brandy variation (I didn't plant it).

Until doing a bit of research on this, I had no idea of Korbel's grip on the WI market. They ship about 1/3 of their brandy to the state, and the brand far leads WI consumption (my dad included). In the mid-1960s, according to the Milwaukee Journal, WI consumed 49% of the national market in brandy.

...

That's not to suggest that the brandy Manhattan is superior, only that it's just the kind of regional variation that many readers of this forum relish.

danimalarkey wrote:Yes, they add brandy, something which I learned from this very board is a geographical variation borrowed from our neighbors to the north.

Just to clarify, I've only ever had bourbon Manhattans at the Matchbox/Silver Palm -- it's just that they add a splash of the cherry-infused brandy to the shaker along with the bourbon and vermouth. I only point this out because in the linked thread, there is a suggestion that the default Manhattan at the Matchbox is made with brandy (as opposed to bourbon) as the base, which has not been my experience.

If you really want to get technical (and who doesn't!), the Matchbox uses griottines.

It is entirely possible that she asked what went into the Manhattan, bartender shouted "griottines!" in a loud bar, and author heard "grenadine!" That's not to excuse it - but it is a possibility.

Gotta love those Sun-Times fact-checkers.

whiskeybent wrote:If you really want to get technical (and who doesn't!), the Matchbox uses griottines.

I'm surprised that more bars and home enthusiasts don't make their own versions of these. Every summer I buy I a few pounds of sour cherries from the farmer's market, put them in canning jars, fill with alcohol (some with brandy, some with kirsch), and sometimes spices. Park them in the fridge for at least a month. They will last indefinitely, but after about a year there isn't much distinctive cherry flavor left in the cherries themselves.

Hello everyone! I am said crappy authority on cocktails from Centerstage and wanted to thank you all for starting this thread. You're right. I totally missed this one. Naturally, I was a little tipsy the night I went to Matchbox but before I wrote this article I called and talked to a bartender to confirm the ingredients. I wrote this piece a couple months ago, so I honestly don't remember the conversation verbatim, but it's quite plausible that he said 'cherry juice' and I stupidly took that as 'grenadine,' which we all know are not one in the same! Again, apologies and thanks for calling me out. I'll let my Centerstage editor know.

-Dana

Dana, thanks for being so good-natured about my snarky comments. For the record, I do enjoy and regularly read your column-- do also let your Centerstage editor know that-- it has given me many a good tip over the years.

Cheers, Jen

Interestingly the photo from the Reader shows rye, not bourbon. A truely accurate Manhattan should use rye-does Matchbox? And there is a name for their drink;it's a Perfect Manhattan! If I asked for a Manhattan, I would not expect any dry vermouth.

While we should try to keep the terminology correct-a martini does not include vodka, but a vodka martini does-I think that the variations on a manhattan may be the best, most versatile concept for a cocktail, suitable for all sorts of permutations. While I normally use bourbon, I do so because I have more of it. I actually like the rye taste better. Last night I used Cruzan Dark rum with sweet and bianco-smooth as could be. I found the bianco good in a manhattan, terrible in a martini. I actually think bitters are more indispensible than cherries in a manhattan.

I think the Reader article is incorrect to classify kirsch as a liqueur. It is an eau de vie.

To my mind the Negroni (because it has gin) and the Manhattan are the most perfect cocktails.

MLS wrote:And there is a name for their drink;it's a Perfect Manhattan! If I asked for a Manhattan, I would not expect any dry vermouth.

I made a Perfect Manhattan tonight, before I saw this. The only rye I had upstairs was Old Overholt, which isn't my preferred Manhattan whiskey, though quite serviceable. But it's a little too something, I don't know, sweet maybe?

Anyway, it was a nice change of pace,

3 oz Old Overholt
.75 oz Noilly Prat dry
.75 oz Martini & Rossi sweet
a couple dashes Angostura and a couple drops on top

I have some brandied sour cherries in my fridge, but forgot to add them (I was in a hurry, remember, I didn't even want to go downstairs).

I've got some Punt e Mes, too, which I may sub in for the M&R next time around. A fine variation, the Perfect Manhattan.

MLS wrote:Interestingly the photo from the Reader shows rye, not bourbon. A truely accurate Manhattan should use rye-does Matchbox? And there is a name for their drink;it's a Perfect Manhattan! If I asked for a Manhattan, I would not expect any dry vermouth.

I had thought a "Perfect" Manhattan required both sweet and dry vermouth, as evidenced by the first hit I got when I googled "perfect manhattan recipe":

http://www.drinksmixer.com/drink5828.html

However, it's been my experience that there is a lack of consensus about the components of this and other classic drinks. MLS, I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying it's sometimes hard to determine who's right. The use of rye, for instance, though I understand it was an ingredient in the "original" Manhattan, is rarely used (at least in Chicago).

I think the "Perfect Manhattan" was in reference to this:

JenM wrote:Edited to add: In the online version of the article, the author does state that the Matchbox uses two vermouths

Although it does not necessarily follow that "two vermouths" means one sweet and one dry, it's a reasonable assumption.

I have a question for you more advanced cocktologists (is that a word? "what do you do for a living?" "oh, I'm a cocktologist.")

I like to shake the hell out of my drinks so I get those little ice particles on the top of my drink. Is that considered "uncouth?"

teatpuller wrote:I have a question for you more advanced cocktologists (is that a word? "what do you do for a living?" "oh, I'm a cocktologist.")

I like to shake the hell out of my drinks so I get those little ice particles on the top of my drink. Is that considered "uncouth?"

Are you using a hawthorn strainer?

http://www.drinkboy.com/BarTools/Strainer.html

That will take care of most of that.

MLS wrote:Interestingly the photo from the Reader shows rye, not bourbon. A truely accurate Manhattan should use rye-does Matchbox?

For the record, that's not a Matchbox Manhattan in the photo, but a Perfect I mixed myself (the griottines are legit). I don't believe the Matchbox carries Beam rye but I could be mistaken. I usually order it there with Sazerac.

MLS wrote:Interestingly the photo from the Reader shows rye, not bourbon. A truely accurate Manhattan should use rye-does Matchbox?

I have had a rye manhattan at Matchbox. I believe they expect you to call for the rye, however; otherwise they'll use bourbon. It's been a while.

They are very fine manhattans, as I recall. Love the griottines!

jpschust wrote:

teatpuller wrote:I have a question for you more advanced cocktologists (is that a word? "what do you do for a living?" "oh, I'm a cocktologist.")

I like to shake the hell out of my drinks so I get those little ice particles on the top of my drink. Is that considered "uncouth?"

Are you using a hawthorn strainer?

http://www.drinkboy.com/BarTools/Strainer.html

That will take care of most of that.

no, I use a cobbler shaker, the only reason being it's the one i have at home. just to be clear, i LIKE the little ice pieces. I was just wondering if that was considered a poorly made cocktail.

germuska wrote:

MLS wrote:Interestingly the photo from the Reader shows rye, not bourbon. A truely accurate Manhattan should use rye-does Matchbox?

I have had a rye manhattan at Matchbox. I believe they expect you to call for the rye, however; otherwise they'll use bourbon. It's been a while.

Yes, you have to ask for the rye at Matchbox.

it contains both sweet and dry vermouth

I'm not sure what you guys are reading.