To Salt or not To Salt

As a professional chef and culinary instructor I have been asked many times what I think is the most important thing to learn when it comes to cooking. My answer is always the same - how to "properly" season food. This is a lesson that was drilled into my head as a student way back in culinary school and one I have attempted to teach to many students myself since. The bottom line to me is that salt is the most important ingredient in the kitchen because it is the main ingredient that has the amazing ability to make food taste more like itself. To illustrate this I always use the example of a homemade chicken broth. A long simmered chicken stock is a beautiful thing but no matter how well prepared does not have much flavor until it is seasoned. Taste a homemade chicken broth before adding any salt and it may seem OK. Add a little salt and it starts to taste good, more like chicken..... add a little more and it starts to taste great... add a little more and it starts to taste like salt. Knowing just how much to add before you cross the line from full-blown chicken flavor to salty, to me, is one of the signs of a good chef.

If I see a customer taste food I have prepared and then reach for the salt shaker, I consider that a failure. On the flip side, it's just as bad of a feeling when a customer complains about something being too salty. I have been having this discussion quite a bit lately with a colleague I respect who does not share my philosophy and I thought this group might be able to provide some interesting feedback.

So my question to you is this. From a consumer perspective, what is your preference or expectation when it comes to how food you order in a restaurant should be seasoned? Should it be served the way the chef thinks is appropriate, or should the chef intentionally hold back on the seasoning to perhaps avoid the "too salty" complaints from those who may have a low tolerance for salt in their food since you can always reach for the salt shaker yourself if desired? I'm talking about "flavor" here, not dietary restrictions which is a completely different subject.

I look forward to hearing your perspectives.

I stand with you on this one....salt it. Some people may like or not like salt more than others but good food is good food. As a line cook I salt each dish to the point that I think is perfect, if someone feels like it should need some more salt by all means add some more...if there's too much...well, you don't know good flavor. (I'm joking...there's times when a dish may go out too salty, not everyone is perfect and not every dish is tasted unfortunately before it leaves my station). Bottom line is that I make each dish to the best of my ability and I'm not about to cater to the folks that don't like salt, if they have a preference for less salt speak up...our waiters will gladly accept your request and write in a note to me saying "easy salt".

angrychefmike wrote:Should it be served the way the chef thinks is appropriate

Yes, always.

There is a breakfast-lunch restaurant near my house serving food with minimum salt, eggs cooked in vegetable oil and many other low fat/low sodium foods served as standard fare. I have stopped going because everything comes to the table needs doctoring. I can do that at home.

I cannot believe the food is really as the chef intended. I have a sense it is a management decision. In my community we have an abundance of assertive people who insist their desires is what the community demands. He may well have felt beaten down. I think saltless food is easily managed for those who want it, why press this onto everyone?

Earlier this year, we had a topic that parallels this topic: The Blessing or Seasoning Food Before Tasting. Another post on a restaurant who salts with abandon causing the customer to comment Salt - a four letter word.

Regards,

angrychefmike wrote:Taste a homemade chicken broth before adding any salt and it may seem OK. Add a little salt and it starts to taste good, more like chicken..... add a little more and it starts to taste great... add a little more and it starts to taste like salt. Knowing just how much to add before you cross the line from full-blown chicken flavor to salty, to me, is one of the signs of a good chef...

So my question to you is this. From a consumer perspective, what is your preference or expectation when it comes to how food you order in a restaurant should be seasoned? Should it be served the way the chef thinks is appropriate, or should the chef intentionally hold back on the seasoning to perhaps avoid the "too salty" complaints from those who may have a low tolerance for salt in their food since you can always reach for the salt shaker yourself if desired? I'm talking about "flavor" here, not dietary restrictions which is a completely different subject.

I look forward to hearing your perspectives.

First, I want to thank you for relieving me of a layer of guilt. I have always felt salt makes food taste more like itself, as you say, but there is so much "publicity" about how bad salt is for you that, while not refraining from reaching for the salt shaker when I think the food needs it, I have defined myself negatively as "Well, apparently I'm a guy who prefers the taste of salt to the taste of food," rather than, "I'm a guy who likes food to taste like itself," which is really what salt is all about. The salt naysayers don't just tell you to avoid salt for health reasons; they make it an aesthetic issue, telling you that with salt you are adulterating the "real" taste of the food, removing it from its "pure," Edenic flavor-state which you would find amazing if only you could retrain your taste buds to appreciate it. Thank you for putting the whole kibosh on that notion.

Second, my perspective on your question is that I am always surprised when food arrives at the table needing no further salting or peppering, and needing none "taken away." I commented on the Lula thread how pleased I was there last Saturday that I wasn't tempted to reach for the salt shaker once. There is such a thing as food that is too salty for me, but more often I reach for the salt shaker on the table. I don't have a big problem with the kitchen making me do that, except when food arrives tasting like nothing, so that the salt on the table becomes a rescue plan rather than an enhancement. On those extremely rare occasions when the food arrives at the table needing not one grain more salt nor one grain less, I always note it to myself as an impressive achievement by the chef and the kitchen. So keep it up.

It's interesting to me that with all the research out there, there doesn't seem to be much on this subject. I, for one, prefer things to be seasoned. It's an understandable source of frustration for chefs that we're leaving them to decide something that appears to be so subjective. I wonder what the actual scientific range is from bland to seasoned to too salty, and how this varies from person to person.

One area that I gripe about on the board a lot is pasta: it seems most restaurants don't salt the pasta water. This, to me, ruins the whole dish - you can't get the pasta to absorb salt anywhere else in the process, and salting after it comes to the table means you have bland pasta in a too-salty sauce.

Please, please, salt it as you see appropriate. I'm sick of dishes coming out of restaurant kitchens that were salted for the lowest common denominator. I'm sick of carrying around a little snuff box full of Maldon. I'm especially sick of how bland almost every soup I get in a restaurant is.

So please, salt it the way you know it should be salted.

I agree with most of the other posters, season it up as you see fit. I am also tired of dishes being toned down spice, and seasoning wise for the masses taste buds.

My beef is that the food is seasoned already, and then they sprinkle big hunks of kosher salt over everything. By the time it comes out, those crystals have melted, so it's very over salted. For example a salad - if there's already salt in the dressing, why sprinkle more hunks over?

Go ahead and season correctly.
It's extremely rare for me to add salt to anything on the table -- buffet scrambled eggs is one of the eggs-ceptions, and last night I had a salad that was so lacking in flavor in the dressing that salt was needed (I'd have preferred some acid instead).

But please don't be annoyed by my use of pepper. I haven't seen a soup or salad that couldn't use a little more black pepper.

Please salt! I have also always been mystified by the statement that too much salt is unhealthy. If you have high blood pressure, lowering your salt intake is surely advisble. But if your blood pressure is normal, I've never seen anything that says salt in any amount is harmful. I'm not aware of any cumulative effect, in the sense that if you eat a lot of salt, it will cause you to have high blood pressure. Thus, I don't understand the many generic statements that everyone should limit their salt intake.

Personally, you should ease up on the salt, ecpecially in gravies and soups. There are any number of other spices and seasonings that can be added to give flavor to soups. Personally, I have reviewed studies on both sides of the hypertension issue, some espousing lower sodium. My take is that it is almost impossible NOT to get adequate sodium. Salt can be added at the time of service should the patron want it.

Firmly in the "please, please season as you see fit" camp. Your patrons don't control the amount of any of the other ingredients that go into their dish... why should salt be any different?

jlawrence01 wrote:Personally, you should ease up on the salt, ecpecially in gravies and soups. ... Salt can be added at the time of service should the patron want it.

I get annoyed when soups are low on salt. My arm gets tired shaking more salt on, and it often takes what seems to me an inordinately large amount of it to get it flavored right. And is it my imagination but does it seem like salt added at the table is less effectiive at bringing out the flavor of the food, than does salting before or while cooking? And with some dishes that can't be stirred one has to keep adding salt as the dish is consumed and exposing saltless regions. And then in many restaurants there's the salt shakers that are clogged up and one has to resort to removing the top to get a decent amount out. And how about the pepper shakers with the little tiny holes and they're filled with pepper flakes, instead of ground pepper and you can't get any pepper without also unscrewing the top.

Salt before!

I'm probably not the best person to answer this, because I love salty foods. So I say season to your tastes.

But please ... don't think that means you don't have to put salt and pepper on the table for people who want more of either. I'll probably want more salt than you do. Sometimes I like added salt just for its texture.

I will reach for the salt shaker before sampling two foods: eggs cooked whole (fried, boiled, etc.) and fried or baked potatoes.

LAZ wrote:But please ... don't think that means you don't have to put salt and pepper on the table for people who want more of either.

Paradoxically, I agree. Paradoxically, because I said upthread that I love it when food arrives in no need of salt or pepper. But as much as I love that, that's how much I hate sitting at a table with no salt and pepper on it. Even if I don't feel tempted to pick either of them up, I need to see them there. I get anxious without my security seasonings.

Plus, it's pretentious not to have them on the table. It can meaning nothing other than, "We think our food is so perfect, only a churl would wish to alter it." And who needs that attitude? Plus, it shows a lack of trust, as if to say, "If we put salt and pepper on the table, you will use them, you idiot. Therefore, we must take these dangerous toys away from you."

15 years ago, when I lived in Atlanta, a restaurant chef there shocked the foodie community by refusing to offer seasonings or condiments of any kind. I, in turn, refused to eat there on general principles (of course, I couldn't afford to eat there if I'd wanted to )

Gleam, clearly I need to find a snuffbox.

HI,

Last winter, I was at an Italian restaurant where All the food came from the kitchen underseasoned. When we asked for salt and pepper, they were surprised because they didn't believe it needed seasoning. They provided tiny crystal salt and pepper shakers to seemingly emphasize the rarity of needing anything.

Regards,

Mhays wrote:15 years ago, when I lived in Atlanta, a restaurant chef there shocked the foodie community by refusing to offer seasonings or condiments of any kind. I, in turn, refused to eat there on general principles.

I encountered the same at a place north of Boulder this summer. After reading the menu and "chef's rules", I decided to go elsewhere.

I believe that absent a specific request from a diner, the food should be seasoned as the chef deems appropriate. If someone is sensitive to salt, he needs to speak up. But I don't believe a chef should be insulted by a diner requesting salt or pepper because every person's taste buds are different (and even change as we age), and some people need the addition of a little more salt/pepper to achieve the desired taste.

Mhays wrote:15 years ago, when I lived in Atlanta, a restaurant chef there shocked the foodie community by refusing to offer seasonings or condiments of any kind.

IIRC, Sushi Mike (at Tanoshii) does not offer shoyu with the sushi on the theory that it doesn't need it and shouldn't have it. I thought there had been a thread discussing the subject but cannot seem to find it at the moment. I did, however, find this: "The waitress emphasizes that Mike's rolls are designed to be eaten without the embellishment of soy sauce or wasabi" from this thread. While I understand, appreciate, and respect the chef's decision, I do not support it. I am firmly in the "season it as you see fit" category; I believe that the food is the chef's and he or she must prepare it as he or she sees fit. Period. That said, I am also in the "I'm-paying-for-it, so-if-I-wanna-add [salt/soy sauce/ketchup], that's-my-decision." Foolish, maybe. Indicative of a lack of sophisticated taste. Maybe that, too. But it's my order and I'm eatin' it.

I had a chef instructor in culinary school who would always say "there's no accounting for taste," meaning everyone's palate is different.

My opinion is that the chef should season as they see fit, but to understand that there will always be people who want to add more seasoning or who may complain their dish is overseasoned. You can't please everyone all the time.

I just moved to Chicago from north of the border, and I must say, I have found that most restaurants in this city over-salt the food. This sentiment is shared by s.o. who usually accompanies me to dine (and we have visited quite a wide spectrum of restaurants already, thanks to the LTH search engine).
Seasoning is a personal preference, and I agree with other posters that yes, as a chef you should season as your professional instinct and experience guide you.

My quam is this. If a piece of fine protein (ribeye, seabass, etc) were to be accompanied by some specialty sauce, then please have a lighter hand on the salt. Last week, s.o. was appalled when we visited an upscale Italian restaurant and his NY strip came with a salty garlic and sage sauce, drizzled with a saltybutter sauce, and garnished more salty shallots. The restaurant replaced the dish but was not apologetic about their salting conduct. Oh well.

Overly salty food is really a nuisance. One can always add more, but can't take it back.
So, please don't a-salt the food, be gentle!

Cathy2 wrote:Last winter, I was at an Italian restaurant where All the food came from the kitchen underseasoned. When we asked for salt and pepper, they were surprised because they didn't believe it needed seasoning. They provided tiny crystal salt and pepper shakers to seemingly emphasize the rarity of needing anything.

What I particularly hate about the restaurants with the no-seasonings-on-the-table practice is the usual way things happen.

Server brings food and sets it on the table. Goes away before you sample it.

You taste, decide it needs salt. Reach for shaker and discover there isn't any. You peer around at other tables to see whether this is just a table-setting error. Maybe you can just grab some from an adjoining table. But no.

Having figured out that the missing seasonings result from chefly arrogance, you look around for your server, who is nowhere to be seen. After fruitlessly trying to attract the server by mental power, you flag a busboy and ask for salt and pepper. The busboy shakes his head and goes away.

After a pause, the server appears. You ask for salt and pepper. Even if he or she doesn't give you attitude, there's another wait before the salt finally arrives.

Meanwhile, you have either been eating underseasoned food or your food has grown cold. I have similar beefs about restaurants that don't automatically provide common condiments, like mustard, for items that most people put them on, but the salt and pepper thing really bugs me.

I'm also annoyed -- though not so much -- by the deal where the waiter brings the giant pepper mill to the table and hovers it over your salad or whatever before you have tasted it. I usually make him wait while I sample the dish, and sample again after it's sprinkled, but it irritates me. Aside from the disturbing connotations of this guy standing over you with a huge phallic object squirting stuff onto your food, what if you want more pepper later?

I hate it when they ask me how I want my steak done. If I say medium-rare, and they bring it that way - what if I get half way through the steak and want the rest medium? Why do they have to be so arrogant as to cook the steak themselves in the kitchen? Can't they just bring me the raw meat and a propane-powered grill? And why do they serve wine that's already been bottled? Maybe I want red, maybe I want white. Maybe dry, maybe sweet. Stop being so cocky and bring me the damn grapes and a few empty barrels!

Kennyz wrote:I hate it when they ask me how I want my steak done. If I say medium-rare, and they bring it that way - what if I get half way through the steak and want the rest medium? Why do they have to be so arrogant as to cook the steak themselves in the kitchen? Can't they just bring me the raw meat and a propane-powered grill? And why do they serve wine that's already been bottled? Maybe I want red, maybe I want white. Maybe dry, maybe sweet. Stop being so cocky and bring me the damn grapes and a few empty barrels!

Gosh, Kenny, I'm just irritated by a few restaurants that don't provide salt and pepper. With so many issues, perhaps you should just eat at home.

To me this is something that can be solved quite easily. It's up to the customer. It is your job as a chef to prepare the dishes in the best way that you know how; however, we all know that does not mean that everyone will love your food. Example: how many times has someone sent back a steak to you that they ordered medium but actually wanted medium-well. There are two simple rules that I learned growing up in restaurants:

1. The customer is always right, despite how wrong he/she may be.
2. There is no accounting for people's taste.

It is the responsibility of the patron to request before hand how they would like their food prepared. If you are salt sensitive then simply request that your dish be prepared with less salt or no salt. As a result you will have to stay away from dishes that are not prepared to order like soup and most sauces. (by the way, if you find that most places you eat at over-season then you are salt sensitive) If you prefer a lot of seasoning, then you should ask for salt and pepper in advance or let your server know that you like a heavy hand on seasoning, but please at least taste the food before you reach for the salt shaker.

Additionally, it is the responsibility of the chef and cooks to prepare the food IAW the customer's request.

gtomaras wrote:It is the responsibility of the patron to request before hand how they would like their food prepared.

...

Additionally, it is the responsibility of the chef and cooks to prepare the food IAW the customer's request.

I often have a hell of a time ordering a hamburger rare to medium rare. I have now begun inquiring from the get go, "If I order my hamburger medium rare, will it be made to my specification or to yours?" There is a trend toward restaurants agreeing to make a hamburger rare to medium rare, then presenting a medium burger to the table. I'm very upfront advising if it arrives cooked more than I request, I will not be happy. If this indeed may be the outcome, then save us both some trouble by your honesty and I will order something else.

When my hamburger has arrived cooked beyond my order, I have gotten shrugs to complimentary burgers. All I really want is a burger cooked to my order.

Regards,

We once went to a fancy catered party at a lakefront park. There were no salt or pepper shakers on the buffet table or the individual tables. My husband went to the person who seemed to be in charge of the catering event and nicely requested salt and pepper. He was told that the food had been masterfully seasoned and did not need any more seasoning so they had no reason to bring any. To presume any chef can salt and pepper for an entire group's palate is simply preposterous. He went on a bit of a rant, nothing rude or unexpected from a person addicted to pepper.
The funny part was when I went up to get us a second glass of wine, they asked me if I was with the pepper nut over there, when I said yes, they told me he was cut off. We had ONE glass of wine up to this point, mind you! Cut off from salt, pepper and wine, three strikes you are out, we ditched that arrogant party.

So my request is season as you see fit, but please allow us the option of salt and pepper at the table to adjust as needed. We do lose taste buds as we age, and this is one of the manners in which we can compensate. Also, studies show that about 50% of the population taste fairly well, 25% taste very poorly and 25% are super tasters. That means in a group of four you have at least three different levels of tasting.

Cinnamon Girl wrote:My husband went to the person who seemed to be in charge of the catering event and nicely requested salt and pepper. He was told that the food had been masterfully seasoned and did not need any more seasoning so they had no reason to bring any.

I think we need a new World Class Asses thread.