Years ago on Chowhound, I got into a debate with zim about what I perceived as the relative drabness of the Thanksgiving dinner. As I recall, my position was that Thanksgiving represented paradigmatic American chow: mostly wholesome, very mildly spiced, totally comforting (to an American-born person)… but overall kind of dull. I’m not actually arguing that position anymore, but I’m still not that crazy about the traditional food for this event. I like everything about the symbolism – the thankful recognition of the harvest plenty, the folklore of the Pilgrims and Indians sitting down together, the celebration of food and community.
I’m just not that crazy about the chow.
Turkey is okay, I guess, but there’s probably a reason why many of us eat it only a few times per year, and my guess is that many eat it just once per year (at least as a whole roasted bird). We’ve done the red bourbon, the Ho-Ka, etc., and I have high hopes for turducken; to make this fowl flavorful, well, it takes an effort. I suspect that, like opera, most people don’t really like turkey; they just eat it for reasons of ritual.
Sweet potatoes are fine. Given the choice, however, between these mushy orange tubers and any of the other firmer, flakier varieties, there’s no contest, for me. A baked Idaho, purple Peruvian, or a fingerling or two would be more to my liking, but eating the yam is traditional so I bite the bullet.
Pumpkin pie is more of the same orange mush and gives me no pleasure. This, I can’t eat. I can hardly even look at it.
Cranberries, for me, painful: just sharp, cold goo. For dessert, in a pie crust, with whipped cream and black coffee, that’s cool; with dinner, and especially with a meat as flat as turkey, well, I don’t get it. It’s not that I hate it; I just don’t get it. It overwhelms the meat. Maybe if I were Nordic I’d like jelly on my meat, but I’m not, so I don’t, much.
Still, Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays (more so, certainly, than Xmas or Easter, which are also excellent food days at our house but with a distracting religious overlay). We have loads of friends over, and I’m all for joining in grateful recognition for all the good things our planet offers up for us to eat.
One variation on the usual Thanksgiving spread, and something I do in an effort to make this day more palatable, is to serve a big antipasti table: pepperoni, lots of cheese, some pickled artichokes, half a dozen types of olives, plump shrimp, good bread, and other foods served not only in recognition of the great Italian explorer who brought this continent to the attention of my European forebears, but to so thrill my palate that the relatively neutral flavors that follow will be more acceptable.
Happy thanksgiving one and all.
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins