Mike G wrote: I started making the New York Times sweet potato-orange ginger gratin linked above, then I got cold feet about how plain it was (one problem was that I could tell the ginger I'd bought was not very flavorful). So I tarted it up with some curry powder and brown sugar. It was all right, but I kind of just came away thinking that gratins are not the thing to do with sweet potatoes; either sliced or pureed is a better texture.
leek wrote:I agree that the sweet potato gratin wasn't quite right. In my case, I think it had too much butter and cream (I was worried it would be too dry). I liked the orange and ginger, so I may try something similar next year, maybe sliced and layered with ginger and orange and using orange juice instead of cream.
I made the same sweet potato gratin and I thought it came out fantastic. I followed the recipe exactly, except that I added toasted pecans instead of hazelnuts. I let the finished, pre-baked gratin sit at room temp for a bit before putting it in the oven and occasionally pressed down the sweet potato with a fork to make sure it was submerged in the cream, which it was by the time it went into the oven. First, I loved the prominent orange flavor. Second, I loved that the “minimalist” nature of this dish showcased how naturally sweet sweet potatoes are. I’m not a fan of adding brown sugar to any sweet potato dish, and I thought this proved it wasn’t needed. Finally, I loved the texture. Mashed or sliced sweet potatoes tend to be stringy or overly dense/weighty on the tongue. The grated sweet potato in this dish had a really light texture. A winner for me, but I guess I’m the only one!
Some of my notes echo those above:
1)
ronnie_suburban wrote:I didn't brine the birds but salted them (a departure) and even though I made my gravy from unsalted necks and giblets (and previously made turkey stock), I did add some of the drippings from the oven-cooked turkey to the gravy -- after tasting them -- and the salt level was perfectly fine.
I didn’t brine either but salted the turkey, adapted from the Zuni Café method. (My roasting method was a hybrid of Zuni Café and Cook’s Illustrated.) I also stuffed a compound butter with rosemary, garlic and orange under the skin. I was very happy with the result, which was a moist, but crispy-skinned turkey. I didn’t add water to the pan (per Cook’s Illustrated) as I was afraid that it would create too much steam in the oven and inhibit the crisping of the skin.
My gravy was a wing-job. I didn’t get more than 1/4 c. drippings after skimming, so I deglazed the roasting pan with Riesling to add sweetness, and then strained the reduction into the drippings. I started with a 2T. butter/2T. flour roux in a saucepan, added the drippings/reduction and about 1 1/2 c. rich turkey stock, and finished it with pink peppercorns. While it didn’t thicken as much as I’d like, taste-wise, it was the best gravy I’ve ever made. (I also took it off the stove as soon as it was thickened somewhat so it probably could have used a few more minutes and maybe one more tablespoon of flour.) Like ronnie_suburban, the pre-salting of the turkey meant that I didn’t need to season the gravy any further, and I agree that the salt level was perfectly fine, not too salty.
2) For the “stuffing” portion, I made a
choucroute bread pudding from Food and Wine magazine at the request of someone who loves this dish. I’ve made it before, with good results, and while it sounds like one of those gimmicky, let’s-take-a-dish-and-turn-it-into-some-other-dish, type-dish, it actually is quite delicious. It has a plethora of pork products for starters (ham, bacon and andouille sausage -- not a traditional component of choucroute, I know), is moistened mostly by a ham stock made from the ham hock and has a noticeable a tang from sourdough and sauerkraut that lifts the taste from herb-heavy savory stuffing doom. Thanks for the recommendation,
LTH, for the Thibodeaux andouille sausage product from Treasure Island-- a really excellent product. (A note on Treasure Island below.) This recipe also gave me the opportunity to use
my own lacto-fermented sauerkraut.3) I generally try to round out any heavy meal with an honest-to-goodness composed salad to balance out the meat and cream-heavy dishes. This year, I made a composed pear salad from last year’s Cook’s Illustrated with watercress, butter lettuce, caramelized pear and toasted pecans (I forgot to add the shaved parmiggiano-reggiano):

Not the prettiest salad, but it struck a balance between feeling not-indulgent-enough and being too indulgent. A note on the pear: I used an Asian pear, which I caramelized in the pan with a teensy bit of sugar. The result was a supremely fragrant, concentrated, even boozy-tasting fruit, even though I didn’t add any liquor to the pan. I’ve caramelized pears before for dessert, but I don’t recall tasting such a transformation from raw to cooked. I don’t know if it was that my pear was better -- purchased from Green Grocer from local Oriana's Orchards, but I think I will try to incorporate caramelized pears more into savory dishes as the boozier flavor profile is a unexpected bonus.
4) I made a cooked, jellied
cranberry-grappa sauce from Gourmet. (
Eat your heart out, Kennyz! :) ) This is the second year I’ve made it with great results. I love the interplay of the sweet grappa with the tart cranberry. A good dish.
5) For dessert, I went with a
Pumpkin Cheesecake with Bourbon-Sour Cream topping from Gourmet, again:

Again not the prettiest dessert, but it wasn't too sweet or too spicy, two things that generally turn me off of pumpkin-style desserts. I was really happy with the creamy texture, which I attribute to using Philadelphia cream cheese. It was noticeably pumpkin-y (as opposed to being spicy with a hint of pumpkin) and I attribute that to using an entire can of pumpkin and knocking down the cinnamon by 1/2 t. (to account for the cinnamon in the graham-cracker crust). Also, I noticed that the quantity of spices in the recipe were fairly conservative already, so except for the downgrade in the cinnamon, I just followed the recipe. I loved the hit of Bourbon in the cheesecake and the topping. In retrospect, whole toasted pecans would have been a prettier garnish, but I had to toast chopped pecans for two other dishes, so I just short-cutted this step.
6) Mashed potatoes were the Buttermilk mashed potatoes from Zuni Café. My favorite recipe, hands down, and there’s no replacing the silky texture that results from first ricing/food-milling your potatoes and then whipping them.
7) I tried to use local and organic ingredients where possible. I used sweet potatoes from Genesis Growers, local potatoes from Angelic organics, bought local produce items from Green Grocer, such as pears, shallots and onions. I used Libby pumpkin, which is local! Beyond that, I tried to use organic items. Some of the wine was biodynamic.
8) A note on shopping: I waited until late Wednesday afternoon to do all my shopping (with the exception of the turkey, which I bought on Sunday). Good things come to those who wait because the stores at that time were relatively dead. No problems with lines or crowds even at the Trader Joe’s on Clybourn, which you normally can’t pull your car into on the weekends. The real jewel, however, was Treasure Island, a place I almost never go to, but on Wednesday perfectly played the role of hybrid gourmet food store and chain grocer. Needing to go there for good andouille sausage, which they had, I found that they also had the same or better holiday sales as Dominick’s/Jewel on common items such as cream cheese (and on the Philadelphia brand, too), heavy cream, pumpkin etc. and carried odd items such as plain gelatin that would normally require a special trip to the Jewel. Because TI had all those things, I needn’t set foot in a Dominick’s; yet shopping at TI was calm, civilized, clean, organized, and the staff was helpful and friendly. Overall, it made me wonder why I hadn’t gone there before for holiday shopping.
Anyway, now that my notes from this year are written for posterity (mostly mine), I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!
Last edited by
aschie30 on November 29th, 2008, 4:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.