Inaugural Road Trip: Pittsburgh & DC

I have exhaustively searched all the existing DC threads as well as the Pittsburgh index (both excellent resources) and I think I've put together a tenative dining plan for the few days we'll be out of town.

Also: We're going to be cruising past Cleveland and if anyone has any suggestions for a Saturday afternoon late lunch, please advise: I wanted to stop at the Velvet Tango Room but they don't open until 6p. We'll probably be there at around 4ish, so it's a no-go.

So: Pittsburgh dinner will be either Tessaros, Fatheads or the Piper Pub. (Wife/BIL are both of Scottish descent so I like to check out pubs like that when possible.)

Morning probably won't find time for breakfast at Deluca's. Any on-the-road stops between Pittsburgh and DC would be appreciated.

DC dining will probably include Full Kee if I can do so, Ben's Chili Bowl, and since I take my wife to Bistro Campagne every year on her birthday (which will be the day before the inaugural) I'd like to find some kind of bistro French around there but as yet have had little success. I'm looking at Brasserie Beck but it's not really exciting me.

Thoughts?

I'd go with Fatheads in Pittsburgh. It just a great bar with great bar food. It's the only place I visit almost every time I'm in Pittsburgh (we'll be there the weekend of 1/16-1/19 if you'd like to get a bite). If you're beer drinkers and like either buffalo wings or amazing fun sandwiches, it's a must. Ooh, and the homemade hot potato chips with spicy bbq sauce! If you're not beer drinkers and love burgers, Tessaro's is the way to go (entrees other than burgers haven't been particularly successful). Fatheads expanded and now has a bit of an Friday's feel to it (it makes up for it in so many ways). Tessaro's is dark, and feels like it hasn't been remodeled since the 70's. I haven't been to Piper Pub.

Where are you staying in Pittsburgh? I might be able to suggest a quick early breakfast option. Because . . .

D.C.-Pittsburgh is a fairly pretty, but unexciting drive foodwise. Having done it at least a dozen times, I can say that I never had a good meal along the way. Breezewood is a logical midway point to stop and stretch your legs, but good food is scarce. At least, there's a decent Starbucks for refueling. Perhaps someone has done some research and can recommend good options. I usually just drove straight through, as the drive really isn't that long (3.5 hours with little traffic). The options get better as you approach D.C. (i.e. Frederick, MD), but at that point you might as well get to D.C. and eat there.

I think Full Kee is good, but not better than Sun Wah and Chicago's best Chinatown options. In fact, if you're a fan of the best Chinese in Chicago, there's a risk that Full Kee will disappoint. I ate there because I lived nearby. Consider Burmese (Silver Springs, MD), Vietnamese (Falls Church, VA), or Ethiopian (9th Street, NW, DC) for ethnic options that are better there than here. We have no Burmese food here. Ethiopian is far superior there than here. And, Vietnamese, while good here, is arguably at least a bit better there (I'd say a lot better, but have only been to a handful of Vietnamese spots here, so it wouldn't be fair).

Ben's Chili Bowl is fine. The atmosphere is fun, but the food is only okay. Another historic spot that is close by but doesn't get nearly the same amount of press is the Florida Avenue Grill. The wall are covered with signed photos of famous folks. Pretty good fried chicken. And, you can always grab a chili dog at Ben's and then go no more than a few blocks to stellar Ethiopian spots (I didn't think I liked Ethiopian food until I ate it on 9th Street).

As for a French bistro, I haven't been to Beck. In case you're considering other spots . . . I've been many times to Bistrot du Coin - - extremely loud, crowded, above average but not stellar food. Three times to Bistro Bis in the Hotel George - - fairly upscale, but can be inconsistent; memorable onion soup. Once to Marcel's, a French-Belgian spot - - upscale and pricey, but memorable and good. In my opinion, though, none of these spots are at all similar to Bistro Campagne, which I find to be wonderfully personal and cozy and with a lighter style of French food (not everything is covered in a cream sauce). I'm a huge fan of Bistro Campagne and, given the option, would go there before any of the spots I've listed.

I've said it before and I'll say it again - - If you can only do one nice dinner in D.C., Komi in Dupont Circle is the way to go. I know others on the board have been there and enjoyed it. It's Mediterranean/Greek, not French, but should be quite memorable. Another restaurant to consider is Palena in Cleveland Park, a cozy romantic spot.

And, this may be obvious, but considering the crowds that will be in D.C. for the inauguration, you'll need to make reservations ASAP. The ethnic restaurants outside of the immediate downtown area may end up being good bets as you may not have to wait as long for tables.

Safe driving!

REB wrote:I've said it before and I'll say it again - - If you can only do one nice dinner in D.C., Komi in Dupont Circle is the way to go. I know others on the board have been there and enjoyed it. It's Mediterranean/Greek, not French, but should be quite memorable.

A HUGE second on this. In fact, I'm kicking myself right now for leaving the pork belly gyro I had at Komi off of my top 10 list for 2008 (not to mention an absolutely phenomenal fried soft shell crab).

As for a French bistro, I haven't been to Beck. In case you're considering other spots . . . I've been many times to Bistrot du Coin - - extremely loud, crowded, above average but not stellar food. Three times to Bistro Bis in the Hotel George - - fairly upscale, but can be inconsistent; memorable onion soup. Once to Marcel's, a French-Belgian spot - - upscale and pricey, but memorable and good. In my opinion, though, none of these spots are at all similar to Bistro Campagne, which I find to be wonderfully personal and cozy and with a lighter style of French food (not everything is covered in a cream sauce). I'm a huge fan of Bistro Campagne and, given the option, would go there before any of the spots I've listed.

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of...in my research the only thing that I was really looking to try was the DC outpost of Les Halles if only for a shot at Bourdain's menu, but they're shuttered. Alas.

As for near-hotel breakfast options, we're staying at the City Center Mariott.

Ethiopian certainly sounds worth exploring as well. Thanks for the heads up.

whiskeybent wrote:Yeah, that's what I was afraid of...in my research the only thing that I was really looking to try was the DC outpost of Les Halles if only for a shot at Bourdain's menu, but they're shuttered. Alas.

Les Halles D.C. isn't half the restaurant Bistro Campagne is. While the steak tartare and French dip are okay, it feels like an outpost. It's there to placate the tourists and the locals who want a sub-$20 downtown lunch. The menu looks good, but the food doesn't deliver. Don't get me started on my disappointment with the cassoulet . . .

You aren't missing anything.

whiskeybent wrote:As for near-hotel breakfast options, we're staying at the City Center Mariott.

Given your location, I'd be tempted to go to Deluca's. Another great option in the Strip District is Jo Jo's, a great greasy spoon.

If I were you, and didn't want to spend a long time eating, I'd check Deluca's and Jo Jo's to see if there's a wait. If there isn't a wait, great. If there is, you could always grab some coffee and amazing biscotti and nibble on the way. There are also a few good bakeries in the Strip District.

And, no matter what anyone tells you, skip Pamela's, a local incredibly-mediocre breakfast-focused chain.

I'm unfortunately not familiar with many spots in the business district.

I'm going to respectfully disagree with REB on the Tessaro's/Fat Head's recommendation. Although he (she?) is absolutely right on the limited nature of Tessaro's menu, the burger in question is so good, it outpaces anything served at Fat Head's. The atmosphere at Tessaro's, as stated, is dark and comforting; a real throw back in time. Fat Head's by comparison is a raucous noise machine with an unstoppable kinetic energy.

If huge juicy burgers, freshly handmade, and cooked to perfection aren't your thing then Fat Head's is definietely the way to go. Stick with the "Headwiches" portion of the menu. These are odd and oddly intriguing sandwich concoctions created by the employees themselves. We tried the Southside Slopes Headwich, a kielbasa grilled and split to fit a standard hamburger bun, topped with fried pierogis, American cheese, grilled onions, and horseradish sauce.

We also liked the looks of the Sweet MB, again a grilled kielbasa, topped with Italian salami, melted provolone cheese, sauerkraut, tomato, and dark mustard. In the end we decided that two kielbasa based sandwiches might be too much. So, in an effort to show our commitment to healthier eating, we opted instead for one of their grilled chicken sandwiches. Big mistake. We should have bit the bullet and gone for good flavor instead of clear arteries.

Anyway, it boils down to this: Tessaro's outstanding burgers (some of the best you will ever eat in your life) in a classic old fashioned, darkly lit bar in a great old time neighborhood, or Fat Head's wild "Headwich" creations in a noisy, youth oriented sports bar in a hyper trendy part of town where parking is near impossible.

Seriously, although it might seem otherwise, I'm not really trying to steer you one way or the other. We've visited both places and loved them both. I hope to revisit both of them sometime soon. They each have their pluses and minuses; it's just a matter of your personal priorities and tastes.

Can't help you on Piper's Pub, never been.

As for late lunch in Cleveland, there are numerous options:

Sokolowski's University Inn (after 4pm) for a fantastic Polish cafeteria steeped in local history.

Phnom Penh for excellent Vietnamese/Cambodian/Thai food.

Flat Iron Grill for excellent deep fried Lake Erie perch, wonderful clam chowder, all served in Cleveland's oldest Irish Pub.

Mt. Pleasant BBQ for brilliant urban 'Que-try the Beef PB Deluxe, an all Beef kielbasa, deep fried, smothered in pulled pork, covered with cole slaw and fantastic twice fried French fries, all slathered in the house made sauce. Near impossible to eat, but well worth the effort.

Or, you could just head over to the West Side Market and roam the aisles hunting down the dozens of ready to eat noshes. Everything from smoked meats to grilled sausages to Middle Eastern to a full service creperie (sweets and savories) to some of the fattest cupcakes you will ever see, all under one roof.

Have a great trip,

Buddy

P.S. I'm suddenly in a hurry to get off this computer. I'll post addresses for the above mentioned places, soon.

B.

BuddyRoadhouse wrote:I'm going to respectfully disagree with REB on the Tessaro's/Fat Head's recommendation.

The respect is much appreciated. And, given that I think they're both great restaurants, I can easily respect the difference in opinion.

BuddyRoadhouse wrote:Although he (she?) is absolutely right on the limited nature of Tessaro's menu, the burger in question is so good, it outpaces anything served at Fat Head's. The atmosphere at Tessaro's, as stated, is dark and comforting; a real throw back in time. Fat Head's by comparison is a raucous noise machine with an unstoppable kinetic energy.

While Tessaro's burger is good, it's still just a burger. Fat Heads sandwich combinations are unique, and the space is plenty fun. And, Fat Heads has my favorite non-homemade buffalo wings. Plus, a ridiculously good draft beer list, focusing on domestic microbrews, and always including one cask option. They're currently offering drafts (these a just a few examples) from Dogfish Head, Anderson Valley, Troegs, Bear Republic, and Bell's - - some of my favorite breweries. And, they're happy to give you tastes of a few beers if you're unsure of what to order.

I really, really enjoy both restaurants. But, I've been to Fat Heads more than a dozen times, and Tessaro's only two or three times. If I could only go to one, it'd be Fatheads.

BuddyRoadhouse wrote:If huge juicy burgers, freshly handmade, and cooked to perfection aren't your thing then Fat Head's is definietely the way to go.

This is fair. If you want a burger, go to Tessaro's. If you appreciate an outstanding beer list and solid interesting bar food, go to Fat Heads.

BuddyRoadhouse wrote:Anyway, it boils down to this: Tessaro's outstanding burgers (some of the best you will ever eat in your life) in a classic old fashioned, darkly lit bar in a great old time neighborhood, or Fat Head's wild "Headwich" creations in a noisy, youth oriented sports bar in a hyper trendy part of town where parking is near impossible.

Tessaro's definitely has more atmosphere. This last bit, however, shouldn't steer you away, unless you arrive at Fat Heads past 8pm on a Friday or Saturday. Then it may take you 5-10 minutes to find a spot. In all my visits to Fat Heads, only once or twice did I park more than one block from the restaurant. Usually, I park within 30 feet of the front door. Granted, I generally go during non-peak hours because it's such a popular restaurant that there is almost always a wait.

South Side hyper-trendy?!! I guess it's trying to be, but this ain't Lincoln Park or Bucktown. No Cynthia Rowley or Marc Jacobs stores in sight. Instead, the main drag is filled with local restaurants, bars, and shops. It's a popular place for young grads to live. I suppose this isn't really relevant, but if you're hoping to do some strolling pre/post-dinner, I guess this information would be good to know.

Just an additional note of caution - - both Tessaro's and Fat Heads can involve hour-plus waits.

Ronna

REB wrote:

whiskeybent wrote:Yeah, that's what I was afraid of...in my research the only thing that I was really looking to try was the DC outpost of Les Halles if only for a shot at Bourdain's menu, but they're shuttered. Alas.

Les Halles D.C. isn't half the restaurant Bistro Campagne is. While the steak tartare and French dip are okay, it feels like an outpost. It's there to placate the tourists and the locals who want a sub-$20 downtown lunch. The menu looks good, but the food doesn't deliver. Don't get me started on my disappointment with the cassoulet . . .

You aren't missing anything.

Les Halles is closed- evicted for not paying bills.

jpschust wrote:

REB wrote:

whiskeybent wrote:Yeah, that's what I was afraid of...in my research the only thing that I was really looking to try was the DC outpost of Les Halles if only for a shot at Bourdain's menu, but they're shuttered. Alas.

Les Halles D.C. isn't half the restaurant Bistro Campagne is. While the steak tartare and French dip are okay, it feels like an outpost. It's there to placate the tourists and the locals who want a sub-$20 downtown lunch. The menu looks good, but the food doesn't deliver. Don't get me started on my disappointment with the cassoulet . . .

You aren't missing anything.

Les Halles is closed- evicted for not paying bills.

Ah, closed for good. Thanks for the clarification. I figured "shuttered" meant closed for inauguration week or something as the restaurant is about two blocks from the White House. It isn't surprising - - during even their busiest rush, you never had to wait long for a table. And, dinner was dead unless something big was happening close by.

REB wrote:South Side hyper-trendy?!! I guess it's trying to be, but this ain't Lincoln Park or Bucktown. No Cynthia Rowley or Marc Jacobs stores in sight. Instead, the main drag is filled with local restaurants, bars, and shops. It's a popular place for young grads to live. I suppose this isn't really relevant, but if you're hoping to do some strolling pre/post-dinner, I guess this information would be good to know.

Just an additional note of caution - - both Tessaro's and Fat Heads can involve hour-plus waits.

Ronna

No argument on anything you've said about either Tessaro's or Fat Head's. My use of the word "trendy", as you point out was incorrect. I think what I meant to say was that the extended strip of Carson Street that Fat Head's is situated on is extremely busy and very popular for the very reasons you have stated. Nothing wrong with that unless that is not your scene. I merely wanted to point out the differences between the two establishments aside from the food.

Again, we loved both places and would revisit either of them in a heartbeat.

Buddy

Buddy -

Thanks for the Cleveland rec's. Exactly what I was looking for - I'm mapping the distance to Mt. Pleasant BBQ as we speak (type?). *

I have the growing feeling that the Tessaro's/Fatheads argument is going to be solved with a cointoss when we arrive.

*Edited to add: It only adds about 20 minutes to the drive!

whiskeybent wrote:I have the growing feeling that the Tessaro's/Fatheads argument is going to be solved with a cointoss when we arrive.

Better yet, call and find out where the wait is likely to be the shortest!

whiskeybent wrote:I have the growing feeling that the Tessaro's/Fatheads argument is going to be solved with a cointoss when we arrive.

There's not much I can add here, but as the Burgh native, I thought I should chime in.

It really is simple:
Tesarro's = Amazing burgers, ground in-house, simply topped, perfectly cooked, with unchanged-for-decades Italian/Polish neighborhood bar charm. Do not order anything else.
Fathead's = Best all around pub grub I've ever had. Humongous portions, creative sandwiches, very very good wings, terrific draft list, (and at the risk of contradicting SWMBO) in a trendy, bar crawly, type neighborhood. I'll add a few favorites to the list. Appetizers: Shrooms, Pedro's Nachos. Headwiches: South Side Slopes, Big Beefy BBQ, Beauty and the Beastie, and the Beefed Up.

Go ahead. Flip a coin. You can't lose. These are two of the best that Pgh has to offer.

Since I'm beginning to reach Olde Farte status, Tessaro's gets more and more comforting. Which is in addition to the superbness of their burger. Take another day, do both Tessaro's AND Fathead's.

d'accord on the starvation diet between Pgh and D.C. (altho', I must admit that, last week when I made the drive again, there were some interesting billboards advertising some apparently interesting places).

When in D.C., and looking for ol' fashioned bistro French, we always go here. Delightful country-inn, auberge-y atmosphere, family staff, excellent traditional fare. And the wine list is affordable. But let me stress "ol' fashioned"—this is NOT a trendy place.

But that's the way I like it.

You've got some nice eating ahead of you!

Geo