Bamako eateries with bits of Tombouctou, Mali

If you are ever in Bamako, Mali I have a few suggestions for lunch or dinner. First, it is notable that Mali was a long time French colony and while that in itself has its painful repercussions there are lingering culinary legacies as an enjoyable consequence. Amandine (Avenue de O.U.A., Badalabougou) is run by an 80 lbs. chain smoking Lebanese sprite who is energetic and inviting. As advertised, her pastries are made with President butter and rival patisserie fare anywhere. There is a convivial outdoor cafe area with European videos playing and a view of busy Bamako street life. Reasonable prices, quality product and definitely local. For a little more relaxed and complete meals I suggest San Toro and Le Patio. San Toro (Missira II route de Koulikoro, Bamako. tel 223 20 21 30 82) was between lunch and dinner when we arrived and yet the chef happily reopened his kitchen and served us a fine repast of Capitaine (Niger fish) skewers and frites. The rest of the menu looked inviting but as we were being offered such graciousness we kept it simple. The highlight in this shady high walled oasis though was fresh squeezed ice cold Baobob and Tamarind juices. There was an indoor/outdoor feel as San Toro had multiple seating areas, all surrounded by sculpture and ponds. Le Patio de Centre Culturel Francais De Bamako aka Le Patio aka Chez Momo (patioccf@yahoo.fr tel. 223 76 19 23 92) is hidden behind high walls on a busy street and attached to the French Cultural Center. Airy and open sky lit the staff was warm and the food good. The millet was not quite our favorite but the plaintains were fantastic. Le Patio and San Toro both boasted live music at night but we were there with the sun.
Tombouctou is a much smaller town and walking the streets it was a stretch to think we would be having anything beyond the Clif bars we packed. We were brought however to Caravanserie Auberge/Restaurant that was unfortunately much better looking than the food ended up to be. We stepped over weary travelers lying on the floor by a small indoor fountain Inside was a raised area with half a dozen tables which was surrounded by more tables, a beautiful large rustic bar and unlit stage dance floor. The bar was inviting, the music fantastic and the communal cous cous took 3 hours to arrive and hard to muscle down. Final advice-check it out for cocktails only. The place to seek out in Tombouctou is a tiny hotel and restaurant Le Maison. They had no room for us but definitely looked good for a next visit.

I remember eating quite a few brochettes de capitaine while in Mali. In general, brochettes were about the easiest thing to find. As far as street food went, we stuck with the little fried donut-like things. They were generally good, if you bought them fresh.

Were you in Tombouctou for the Festival in the Desert?

Yes I went to the festival and felt compelled to submit my first LTH post having gotten solid restaurant tips from expats in Bamako. Gastronomically it is worth mentioning that the fresh produce being sold throughout the Bamako streets looked fresh and spectacular.

I'm getting ready to make a trip to Bamako and was planning on posting a question about good places to eat. Once again, LTH is way ahead of me. Thanks so much O'rdirv for your suggestions. I'll make a point to follow up with my impressions.

I'm afraid I didn't try any of the places suggested by O'rdirv. I found bouncing around Bamako to pretty taxing between the air pollution and just the general chaos. Most meals ended up being much more about subsistence and less about searching out unique flavors.
I will give a shout out to a new friend Ana Dolo and his hotel the Hotel Guiruyam out in Sangha in the Dogon Region. He made some really wonderful meals during my stay and was an incredible guide.

If you happen to find yourself in the middle of Mali, stop in and say hello to Ana.