Taboun Grill, with only a few passing mentions, certainly qualifies as
a place that does not get LTH love. I think it rises above simple inclusion into that thread and deserves a thread of it's own, more LTHForum attention, and some serious consideration as a destination restaurant.
Taboun Grill is an Israeli restaurant (with some Moroccan dishes as well). It is on of the few
CRC-certified kosher restaurants in Chicago.
Last night, after an attempt to eat at
Hashalom (where I dine regularly, but can't seem to remember that they're closed Tuesdays), Cookie suggested Taboun. "Same kind of food (Israeli/Moroccan)". We were both surprised that we've never been there, but Hashalom pulls me in with little effort.
I have very little negative to say about the food at Taboun (and I'm upset that I didn't carry my camera last night). The spit of roasting chicken shwarema dared me to try not to order it--it was as beautiful as any al pastor cone I've seen (we were having an early dinner, so I'm sure I was one of the first portions sliced off the spit that night). It was juicy and spicy with crispy edges that made the meal. It was distinctively flavored to the point that I'd have no problem picking it out of a lineup. I can think of few, if any, chicken shwarema's that I've enjoyed this much.
Cookie's kefta, prepared in little football shapes, were good but rather aggressively seasoned for her taste. I liked them, but Taboun clearly has a heavy hand with spices that might not be to other tastes.
The meat isn't the only thing that I enjoyed.
--The pita is fresh, hot and unique in it's "puffiness". I was perfectly comfortable eating it dry, without any of our baba ganouj.
--The pickles and beets brought to every table are delicious. Sour pickles and sweet beets make a nice combo--I ate the whole plate.
--I loved the grilled onions (unsliced half onions, cooked until soft on the grill) and grilled tomatoes.
I really found myself wanting to come back as soon as possible. (Next time, I'll have my camera).
Taboun is also interesting because it's a restaurant that truly serves its community. It's located in Chicago's most concentrated Jewish neighborhood (both Cookie and I grew up here and know it well) and it is clearly a focal point for the community of all types of Jews in the area (from Orthodox to Reform to Secular), even including ex-pat Israelis. It's one of those restaurants that give you an immediate view into the heart of a community. I really hope more LTHers check it out, it's a rare, special mix of very good food in a true neighborhood restaurant.
The restaurant is BYOB, closed Saturdays and Fridays 2 hours before sundown, and the cost of meat dishes does reflect the relatively higher cost of kosher meat. There's a small parking lot just to the south of the restaurant.
Best,
Michael
New address, California location closedTaboun Grill
8808 Gross Point Road,
Skokie, IL, 60077,
847-965-1818
http://www.taboungrill.comHashalom, I still love you.