I've seen a few reviews/mentions of this place in print, but no posts so far. So...here it is.
First, apologies for still not being savvy enough to post pictures. The few we took with the camera phone were so grainy and small, it would be a disservice to post them. One dish was so good, the only shot is of the oil-and-crumb streaked memory it left on the plate.
Four for dinner, and we all walked out happily stuffed and hopeful.
Happily stuffed with: Seafood cocteles topped with slim wedges of avocado and filled with tender, not chewy, octopus; springy, fat shrimp; what looked like slivers of salmon; and little chunks of cucumber and tomato in a very mild citrus “broth.” I say ‘broth’ because it wasn’t the usual, slightly sweet tomato juice that appears in many cocteles I’ve had here (a la El Barco). It was clearish, flecked with cilantro and had a very light citrus/seafood broth flavor.
Hopeful that: The tostadas they serve, sparingly, will not be stale the next time we go back. They offered plenty of saltines, which were also slightly stale, but even at their crisp-est, wouldn’t be good enough for the cocteles.
Happily stuffed with: Ceviche mixto, which appeared to be the very same seafood/fish concoction featured in the cocteles, sans broth, served on lettuce leaves. It was lacking some of the vital, citrus kick, so we asked for extra limes and doctored it up with hot sauce.
Hopeful that: They add some spicy, citrus-y punch to both the ceviche and the cocteles, and again, find a better, saltier, crunchier tostada to serve—and 86 the saltines.
Happily stuffed with: Bruchetta mixta, three discs of bread—big enough for all four of us to get a bite--one topped with a sweeter, raisin-spiked eggplant caponata, one with sautéed shallots and mushroom, and one with zucchini-ricotta mixture. All were excellent.
Hopeful that: They won’t take it off the menu.
Happily stuffed with: Costilla de puerco en tamarindo—three perfectly tender, but not at all Meat Jello-ish--spare ribs with an ancho and tamarind glaze. By all accounts, the best of the four entrees we had.
Hopeful that: the black beans in the corn/bean relish under the spare ribs will not be undercooked the next time we go back. And we WILL go back.
Happily stuffed with: The dressed tilapia stuffed with chorizo, a tender, flaky fish served in foil with a raw radish/sprout/carrot julienne.
Hopeful that: I get better at eating fish with so many bones.
Happily stuffed with: Snapper in mole with plaintains and rice—the 2nd place entrée of the evening. Simultaneously crispy/sweet (plantains) and juicy/salty (snapper). Served with warm, fresh tortillas--the kind I'd like to roll in and eat my way out of.
Hopeful that: I eat more of this very soon.
Happily stuffed with: a very light (some might say bland) shrimp with garlic and veggies over rice.
Hopeful that: They keep the fresh, quality ingredients but develop a heavier hand with the seasonings.
In addition to being unbelievably priced—the spare ribs were $11, and I don’t think I saw another entrée over $14—they’re also BYOB. They make their own sangria, so we brought two bottles of dry, pink Spanish wine with high hopes. The sangria was not great--a bit watered down, though it
was one of those scorching-hot, ice vanishes in three seconds kind of days, so not too surprising. The wine we chose didn’t help matters, either.
Service was fair--she was quick with a bucket of melting ice for the wine, and seemed to know a few of the stars on the menu--but we had to keep asking for extra limes and tostadas. We ordered two rounds of the cocteles and one of the ceviche, so a big ol' basket of tostadas and a pile of limes should be a given. But it's hard to fault such little service slips at a new place, particularly when it was so mind-numbingly hot outside, and kinda muggy inside the restaurant.
A fantastic addition to the neighborhood, but with a few easy kinks to work out. I hope this place makes it to next year’s GNR nominations!
Mundial Cocina Mestiza
1640 W. 18th Street
312-491-9908