A mutedly good experience here last night. A reservation was easy to be had for a Friday night, but service issues abounded right there. While friendly, the woman taking the reservation asked, "do you know where we're located?" Sure, I thought, I know where 190 S. LaSalle Street is. "Sure," I replied. What she neglected to tell us is that the restaurant is actually located around the corner
on Adams, next to the W hotel. When you're crunched for time making a few turns around LaSalle in confusion is annoying. They also do not have valet parking, so you have to use the garage down the street, which charges $14 "evening rate." (We were told by the host that we could try to use the W's valet but that they get a little persnickety with that.)
When I walked in, this was not at all what I was expecting. Two huge flat-screen televisions in the host area (behind the bar), playing nothing in particular to no one at all. Off to the right of the entrance looks like a casual cafe (which was empty) with refrigerator cases (also empty). Where else have I seen that? Oh yeah, Aigre Doux. I had a hard time orienting myself (where was the host?), when the bartender greeted me and pointed me in the right direction (thank goodness the bar wasn't crowded, I could see this being an issue).
After finally making it to the host stand well into the restaurant, we were finally seated. The decor of this restaurant is Epcot Center meets fine dining. The sound system was louder than what is typical for fine restaurants, and for most of the evening, played uplifting space-agey music, like the kind you hear in the holding rooms at Epcot (at least when I last visited there many years ago). The stark white walls and slinky-like installation protruding from the ceiling all added to the Epcot feel. Or maybe it's Epcot Tokyo. Between the hardwood floors, the hardwood tables (no tablecloths) and the modern cafeteria-style chairs (which looked uncomfortable), the strange music, and brighter than usual lighting, nothing about this room said fine dining, comfort or relaxation. It felt more like a trendy, casual sushi bar. Luckily, they have booths. I glanced over at the middle-aged couple who was unfortunately placed on display in one of the tables in the middle of the room. They looked like tourists from the nearby hotel and seemed like they wanted the floor to swallow them up. This was over their head.
The food was well-portioned for the price but overall, lacking balance or punch in flavor. Perhaps it was an issue with execution. Everything was very tame. The Korean-style short rib spring roll was generous for $5 but could have highlighted the spicing on the short rib more - the accompanying sriracha glaze was too sparely doled out to get a taste of it but the bites where the sauce fought its way through deliciously complemented the meat. The overwhelming flavor was lettuce. The scallop maki with salmon and an Alaskan king crab talon really showcased Shikami's talents. The king crab was butter-poached and served with a red curry viniagrette; the silkiness of the scallop and the high-quality salmon in the maki was beautifully complemented by a spicy mayonnaise. Perfectly balanced flavors.
A filet of beef came with two large slices of perfectly medium-rare filet, buttery in texture, over carmelized celery root with mushrooms. I defy you to find better filet at a steakhouse. Unfortunately, the slice of "carmelized" celery root wasn't apparently carmelized, and tasted like nothing more than a slightly above-raw piece of celery root. This wasn't a pleasant combination with the very earthy mushrooms served with the dish. It needing something to balance everything but some bites were more pleasant than others. The opaa was described by the server as "sweet and sour," but was more sweet, although the sweet fish was high-quality and perfectly grilled medium-rare. The accompaniments all were too sweet, and no sour to be detected. Again, the flavors weren't as balanced as they could be.
Something that bears repeating is that the dishes are very reasonably priced. The korean short rib spring rolls were the "taste" portion at $5. The maki was $12, and came with three pieces and a piece of king crab. The fish was average priced, but the filet gave you two large pieces for less than $30.
Service needed improvement. Two servers were working this half-filled room, one more successfully than the other. In addition to being harried, they could be more polished. As the courses were being brought, there was a plate build-up (clearly the kitchen was faster than FOH), and water glasses went embarrassingly unfilled. After being offered a cocktail from the "full bar," I ordered a negroni, but then was later told they couldn't find the campari. Drinks were quaffed and all ice but nobody offered a replenishment. The entrees came out too quickly after the starters, and then the server was MIA, so there was nobody to take my order for a glass of wine to go with it. Luckily, the other server (who was backing up the less efficient server) caught my eye and helped me before my entree went cold. I appreciated that these two were doing the best they can; but with the room at half-full, I can't imagine if they were slammed with walk-ins.
On the one hand, Shikago has been open only a month and a half, but on the other hand, it feels like they've been opened two weeks.
Some suggestions:
1) Soften the decor. It's too stark, too youthful. I can't imagine the Loop suits in here during lunch. This is (Chi)cago after all; trendiness is not maintream.
2) Hire more servers. Smooth out the edges.
3) If you're not hiring more servers, have the kitchen keep pace with the servers. More importantly, I get the sense that the kitchen is not adeptly executing the subletly in some of the flavors of the dishes.
4) Hone dinner service. It's too loud, too bustling, too casual.
I wouldn't mind trying this again but I'm not likely to rush back. However, if this was solely a Loop lunch destination, I'd be ecstatic.