Turkey restaurant recs: Istanbul, Selcuk, Pamukkale

One month from today, my boyfriend and I are leaving on our long-awaited trip to Turkey. Pretty much everything I've read has suggested that it's practically impossible to get a bad meal in Turkey, but any specific recommendations would be great - we are going to Istanbul, Selcuk/Ephesus, and Pamukkale. We are generally hole-in-the-wall restaurant eaters, but are willing to splurge a bit now and again, particularly if it involves seafood, live music, and/or things we aren't going to find at home. (A friend who was in Selcuk last year recommended a place that will serve off-menu Kurdish food if you know to ask, and I think we will have to check that out.)

There are some Istanbul recs in this thread (including links to other threads):

Istanbul

Hey, as far as that goes, any recommendations for avoiding cigarette smoke to whatever extent that can be accomplished? In addition to thinking it is disgusting, especially when I am eating, I am asthmatic, and cigarette smoke is probably my worst (legal) asthma trigger. I suspect there are some outdoor cafes in our future, but any other tips?

Eva Luna wrote:Pretty much everything I've read has suggested that it's practically impossible to get a bad meal in Turkey

Define bad. I'm sure Jazzfood would steer you away from eating doner kabobs on the street.

stevez wrote:

Eva Luna wrote:Pretty much everything I've read has suggested that it's practically impossible to get a bad meal in Turkey

Define bad. I'm sure Jazzfood would steer you away from eating doner kabobs on the street.

Well, having survived a total of 2 semesters of Soviet dorm food, my outlook may be a bit skewed. By "bad," I mean either "likely to give me food poisoning" (which I generally manage to avoid, both in places like Soviet dorm cafeterias and in places like Mexico, where most Americans get sick often), or "likely to make me want to spit it out on the street, regardless of how much I will insult the chef."

Eva Luna wrote:Hey, as far as that goes, any recommendations for avoiding cigarette smoke to whatever extent that can be accomplished?

It's been several years since we've been in Turkey but I don't recall smoke being as pervasive in restaurants as in Italy. I suppose it's tough to haul a hookah into your favorite cafe. But, people do smoke and I never hesitated asking for another table if it was a problem. Sitting outside is a little better although that's not a sure fire escape.

I can't give you any specific restaurant names because:
a. I can't remember what I had for lunch yesterday and
b. We pretty much picked small, interesting places to eat on the fly. Especially if they had the ubiquitous display of fresh fish on ice.

As for semi-street food, I loved the pide from the little storefronts. Also the various nuts and other finger food found in and around the Spice Market in Istanbul.