I'm not sure exactly how it came about, but somehow or another laikom, msmre, and I decided to order three country hams + bacon and divvy them up. I ordered a
Kite's Ham (Commonwealth of Virginia, represent!), Matt/laikom ordered a 2-year old Berkshire ham from
Benton's in Tennessee, and Mark/msmre ordered a 2-year old
Scott's Ham from Kentucky.
While I've normally cooked country hams in the past, we all decided we wanted to dig in to them raw, resorting to cooking only if the raw product wasn't appealing. As it turns out... raw country ham is awesome. I'm sure I'll fry some slices up (as we did today), but I can't see myself ever cooking a whole ham again.
The gnarly end of the Kite's Ham - a sure sign of funky pork inside!
My cat, Oliver, was rather enamored with the ham
Today was the day to break in to the salty pork beasts, and we made a group trip down to
Butcher and Larder where Rob kindly offered to slice the hams on his bandsaw.
Rob - making quick work of the hams
Cross-section of Kite's ham
Kite's was the youngest of the bunch, at roughly a year old. It was also the leanest. We're not sure if it's because it's unsmoked, and so the flavors really came through, or there's something about the aging process, but this ham brought the deepest, funkiest flavors of the bunch.
Cross-section of Benton's Ham
At the other end of the spectrum, this 2-year aged Berkshire beauty from Benton's ham had
heavy smoke and a lot of fat. It was also the most assertively salty. Awesome, awesome stuff. Unfortunately, I thought the texture was the weakest of the group - a bit grainy.
Ham sections on display
Frankenham
As we were divvying up the hams, we assembled our very own magical frankenhams. Mmm... ham.
And then... we ate
Back at my house, we stood around the kitchen, slicing up the various hams, trying them in different configurations, with different condiments, etc. Straight off my deli slicer, on biscuits, wrapped around 3 kinds of musk mellon, fried with red eye gravy, with REB & RAB's tomato jam, on slices of fresh tomato. You name it, we tried it.
My summary? Ham is good.

There was no clear winner in the bunch, each was great in it's own way, and is destined for different fates. The Scott's ham was well-balanced, with a bit of smoke, bit of funk, and great texture. Kite's was funky and delicious. Benton's is a smoky, salty beast.
The bacon from the three ham houses was equally different. Kite's sells an unsmoked, dry-cured bacon. While it's pretty good fried up, it's awesome sliced thin and eaten raw. It's kind of like a country lardo, with a deep, salty funk. The Scott's bacon, much like their ham, was well-balanced and fried up well. Benton's? Crazy smoky and salty - I love it dearly, and treasure its rendered fat.
-Dan