Branch 27 (Chicago & Noble Aves.)

It was opening night last night at Branch 27. According to its website, Branch 27 is an American bistro owned by Cary Michael (formerly of Rockit Bar and Grill and Lettuce Entertain You) and Howard Natinsky (of Five Star, Fat Cat, and Empire Liquors). As it was opening night, I'll assume in commenting that the restaurant is working out its kinks, especially with respect to service, which was less than stellar. I stopped in after an appetizer at West Town Tavern, which is just two blocks east on Chicago Ave., and specializes in contemporary comfort food. It was interesting, then, to compare the two side by side based upon my contiguous visits.

The decor at Branch 27 is similar to WTT in that there is a lot of exposed brick. Branch 27, I think, veers more onto the gastropub side, with a decor that aims to be a modern interpretation of the Ye Olde Pub look: heavy, dark booths, wooden bar stools, sturdy tables, and darker hues. Unlike WTT, it seems to veer more onto the "bar side" given its two large screen LCD TVs, which were turned on last night without sound. The room is divided into two; the bar-side on one and the restaurant on the other. Very cool round pendant lights hanging from ceiling. Overall, an attractive space.

Upon opening the door of Branch 27, my hair was blown back by the sound of music. It was LOUD. People say WTT is loud, but having been there just a few minutes before, WTT was library-quiet by comparison. Loud, rockin' music meant that you had to shout over the music in order to be heard. Maybe I'm getting old.

It was packed last night. After awhile we were given a menu, which seemed to be heavy on twists of bar food -- not too terribly unlike the Paramount Room. Whereas the PR has steak tartare, Branch 27 has tuna tartar. There are chicken wings, roast chicken, a pasta dish or two, a flat iron steak (priced at a reasonable $22), etc. Overall, I thought the prices were reasonable.

I didn't really peruse the beer list; I give the wine list a "C." While the by the glass options were reasonably priced, they could use to offer many more. They don't have anything on WTT in that regard. I wish I could discuss the cocktail list with you, but as it was left blank, I think I was supposed to contemplate it, John Cage-style.

Because I wasn't too hungry, I ordered a few apps to share. The highlight was the mac n' cheese, which was a textural hit, a broiled top yielded to al dente pasta and a creamy sauce with the tang of aged cheddar. Mozzarella egg rolls were ordered more for the kitsch factor -- clearly an homage to the bar staple, fried mozzarella sticks. These were weird. Again, I'll assume that the kitchen is working out their kinks and any feedback they may get here may help in that regard, so I'll say the following. These were undercooked - the middle was slightly warm, the "eggroll" wrapper was blond when it seemed like it should have been a golden brown and the basil tasted aggressively metallic.

Even more avoidably tragic, in my book, were the fries. The fries were advertised as "hand-cut." Fine, but they were clearly handcut to look like McDonald's fries. I don't particularly value McD's fries, so I hate it when I see restaurants aim to make fries look and taste like McDonald's fries. But the worst part is how they were served. They were served in a metal, handled cup (like the type that Charlie Chaplin would use to panhandle in an old movie). Well, you can guess what happened next as we all know that metal retains heat, so . . . yes, all the fries below the lip of the metal can were soggy. I hope they remedy the way these are served. Also, the fries were served with a ramekin of ketchup. So boring. Can we do an aioli or some type of dipping sauce?

Anyhow, I plan to go back to try to get a feel for more of the menu. And like all restaurants, they have to hit their stride, and while I didn't detect any major hiccups opening night, I don't get the sense that they've hit their stride yet either.

Another note: if this place really intends to be a neighborhood place and not just a restaurant, I think they should open earlier than 5:00 pm, especially on the weekends.

Branch 27
1371 W. Chicago Avenue
Chicago IL 60622
(312) 850-2700

Should we combine this thread with this one?