Random notes on fun places in Illinois (and nearby) -
First off, Food Nut, I agree that Shawnee is amazing. The cliffs, the forests, and the swamps are not at all what one thinks of as Illinois. As are the (almost abandoned) old river towns near the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, a bit further east, and the various towns up the river. Dickson (no relation) and Cahokia Mounds are also quite impressive, though Dickson lost a lot of its interest when they closed up the previously open grave site, out of respect. Yes, it was the right thing to do, but it did detract from the interest. Now there is just some goofy multimedia show.
Cahokia, on the other hand is impressive in a sort of zen way - this giant city represented by mounds and bumps with a local highway running through the middle and surrounded by junkyards (I exaggerate very slightly). All this leaves one with the impression that not only was Illinois not a forsaken wilderness "discovered" by the Europeans, it was a major center of a very old, quite advanced culture back when the Celts were worshiping trees (no disrespect meant, just suggesting that the Europeans did not bring civilization to our fair state).
When the kids were maybe 10 & 12 we took a three week drive around Illinois, and it was great fun. I recommend this to one and all. The Bride acquired a guidebook of weird sites in Illinois (not sure of the name, and she is unavailable at the moment) places we visited included:
- Two story outhouse. Really. The top was slightly offset to give a straight drop.
- Elephant grave. Some circus elephant died in a little town in southwest Illinois and was buried, along with a statue
- Comic book heros: both Popeye and Superman hail from Illinois, don't they? At least their authors lived here, and the towns include statues of these heros of my youth.
- Kaskaskia - okay really not Kaskaskia, our first state capitol, because the Mississippi consumed that a long time ago, before the Army Corps set about taming the river (with limited success, but boundless energy). But there is a reproduction of Pierre Menard's home in a little grove on some bottomland behind a levee.
- A short drive, a ferry ride, and another drive across the Mississippi lies Ste. Genevieve, an amazingly preserved French Trapper town, also from the dawn of time. Flooded repeatedly over the years, it keeps coming back. And it is good to see more original versions of the Menard home, for comparison.
- If you like old river towns like Joliet (which I do) Alton, Grafton, And Quincy are sort of cool. Basically early industrial towns. Hannibal, Mo has its issues, being a tourist trap and all, but it is not that bad.
- Calhoun County, where the Illinois meets the Mississippi, offers wonderful peaches and turtle soup. Aim to visit around the beginning of August, but do a web search for the Peach festival to be sure of dates.
My favorite place, though, is actually in Indiana near the Wabash River (which is a beautiful river on its own) - New Harmony. It started life as a Utopian community in the early 19th century. Grew very quickly and became successful because everyone worked - men, women and children. And they found by discouraging any mixing of the sexes, people were even more productive. Only problem with the system was that no one reproduced, and they were not able to bring in enough converts to keep going - so they sold the town, moved to Pennsylvania and quietly disappeared after building another impressive town.
This left a lovely brick town which was purchased by a Scot, Robert Owen (you may have heard of him) whose utopian ideal was a lot more socialist - create a town where education and life of the mind is paramount. Give people their homes and take care of them. Everyone works and learns together for the good of all. The problem here is that most of the people who came were more interested in the living free part, than the working for the good of all.
But the Owens did quite well, starting the Smithsonian Institution, the USGS, and making their mark in lots of other ways. And they seem to have made more than enough money to keep operating their pretty little historic town, as well as commissioning some major architects to build incidental buildings (visitors center, church, outdoor church, and more). So today you have this great historical village, inn, two good restaurants and some impressive modern architecture.
Which makes a very good way to spend a weekend, though it is a long drive from here. For more info, try
http://www.ulib.iupui.edu/kade/newharmony/home.html or just do a search on New Harmony. I will deifinitely be going back to Calhoun County for peach season, and New Harmony for a weekend sometime soon.
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Feeling (south) loopy