Among many other culinary revelations at the time, I tasted my first Gran Marnier souffle at Jovan in 1971.
In 1973, I moved to 100 E. Walton, next door to Le Perroquet, and soon became a regular there. I can still taste a favorite appetizer: a crisp, intricately woven pastry basket filled with wild mushroom ragout.
Jovan was a quite a character. Knowing I was a musician, he always begged me to give him piano lessons. I agreed on the condition he would teach me to cook. Sadly, neither ever happened.