Driving Chicago-->W. Virginia; What's Worth a Detour?

I'll be driving from Chicago to White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia for a symposium next month, and I'm excited about all the culinary possibilities that might await me along the way.

Google tells me the quickest route is through Indiana and southern Ohio, but I'd be willing to detour south into Kentucky if something seems worth the extra effort/time.

Any suggestions?

I'd be curious what route Google told you to take. I used to drive from the Chicago area to West Virginia quite a bit, and the fastest way was always I-65 to Louisville KY, then I-64 through Kentucky into West Virginia. An alternate route would be I-74 from Indianapolis to Cincinnati, then I-75 to Lexington KY, and pick up I-64 in Lexington.

I'd most certainly not miss Moonlight BBQ in Owensboro KY. It's about a 45min detour due south from I-64, which is where you'll be. Owensboro bbq is a world of its own.

I-64 will also take you through Louisville. There's a thread or two which give recommendations for this great town, look especially for stuff on Bardstown Rd.

Geo

Ooops, sorry, I should have looked at the map first--you'll not go anywhere near Owensboro. I always drove past there from KC.
Duh.

Still, have a great time in Louisville!

Geo

Are the kids going with you? I'd say to make a stop in Indianapolis just for the children's museum if so - they even have things for babies to enjoy, it's well worth the (somewhat outrageous) admission price.

Nope, no kids. This is a solo trip. I'm almost certainly going to stop somewhere on the way back and get a country ham and some bacon.

Other than that, I'm open.

Mark, google's got me going 65S to indy, 70E to Dayton, then US-35/ I 64 into Charleston WV, and then into White Sulphur Springs.

That route doesn't take me into Kentucky at all, which is where I'm thinking the better food options might be. Other than Cincinnati chili, i'm not sure southern Ohio has much to offer....

Adding Louisville to the google mapper only adds a half hour to the travel time, so I'll most likely head down that far south before turning east.

I also prefer to travel on state routes rather than interstates, when possible, just for the appeal of happening upon places.

Yes, sadly, Southern Ohio doesn't have a lot to offer. Particularly Dayton - though there is a strip of Korean markets and restaurants near Wright-Pat AFB that I've been dying to explore (but can't convince my in-laws to try.)

A couple of threads on the Southern Ohio area are here and here. (scroll down in the second link for addresses for Korean - haven't tried them but put them there for reference.) Slightly out of your way in the Cincinnati suburb of Lebanon is the Golden Lamb, a historic Inn where Mark Twain is proported to have said "When the end of the world comes, I want to be in Cincinnati because it's always twenty years behind the times." It's famous, locals are proud of it, you'll have a dinner with porky string beans and buttery rolls - but the food wasn't stellar when we went a couple years back (I remember somewhat disappointing fried chicken.)

I have a feeling you won't be sorry heading to Louisville.

Hi,

I have friends who regularly go to Greenbrier for the writing conference. It is less than 100 people with a lot of interaction amongst the participants. Julia Child was a regular attendee who insisted on being treated just like everyone else. I have considered going, though I don't quite see myself in their circle. Plus I don't want to pay the daily rate of the Greenbrier, I'd rather be at a Motel 8. My friend who attends frequently said I won't get the same experience staying elsewhere.

I haven't been to West Virginia in a few years. I used to have a customer in Roanoke, VA I would visit. The drive there brought me through WV. The first time I travelled there, I kept seeing signage advising. "Tamarack is now X miles, " with no explanation what Tamarack may be. By the time we closed in on the place, I just had to see what I was being teased about. It is a venue for highlighting artisans and craftsmen of West Virginia, but there is also excellent food service within. It is quasi cafeteria style with a menu featuring WV ingredients like brook trout with lots of culinary students learning the trade. I recall ordering a peach cobbler, which had the option of whipped cream. Of course, I had to do my usual investigative effort to divine if was aerated light cream from a can or real whipped cream. I was assured it was whipped fresh daily, then she brought from the refrigerator a pastry bag fitted with a large fluted tip to deposit a substantial quantity of whipped cream on my cobbler. It seemed to be a largely subsidized meal to attract tourists, because for the quality of the ingredients and execution surpassed the cost. Thereafter we made sure to include a stop to Tamarack anytime we were near.

I have no idea if you will be passing Tamarack or if the quality we witnessed has been maintained. If you do go, I would love to hear your impressions. I miss my visits to Tamarack and hope to get back someday.

Regards,

When traveling, we've had mostly good results with recommendations from Roadfood. http://www.roadfood.com

Along I65 on the way to Indy, check out the Fair Oaks Farm. VERY hucksteresque, but they have some very good cheeses, and offered samples of just about everything to us when we've stopped there. Also ice cream and other fattening desserts. Exit 220, signs from the highway, but visible from the exit. http://www.fofarms.com [Note: even though these folks are in central Indiana, their hours are CHICAGO time]

In Indy, Shapiros Deli is a gem we found years ago from the Roadfood book. Huge corned beef sandwiches and other deli favorites.

Shapiro's Downtown
(south side, near new Colts stadium)
808 S Meridian St
Indianapolis, IN 46225
317.631.4041
6:45am to 8:00pm Everyday
http://www.shapiros.com

And between Dayton and Columbus 5 miles south of I70 on rt 68 (exit 52A), another Roadfood favorite,

Young's Jersey Dairy
6880 Springfield Xenia Rd
Yellow Springs, OH 45387
937-325-0629
http://www.youngsdairy.com

The place to go to for Ice Cream, also serves fast food. They now have a full service restaurant but I've never been there.

thanks, guys.

Cathy, yeah, I'm going for the writing conference. Luckily, I will be there on a scholarship, so I don't have to pay the hefty rate in order to stay at the GB. I'll keep my eyes peeled for Tamarack.

JR, thanks. I actually checked out the road food website shortly after starting this topic, and now have a pretty good list of places that I'm working on.

I managed to find two country ham makers close to the route: Browning's Country Ham's in Paris, Ky, and Johnson's Country Hams in Union, KY. Anyone ever hear of either?

I also found a listing for the Estill County Ham Association, in Irvine, KY, but can't find much else about them on the web....

elakin wrote:Google tells me the quickest route is through Indiana and southern Ohio, but I'd be willing to detour south into Kentucky if something seems worth the extra effort/time.

Not having to drive through Indiana and Ohio?

Sorry, Indianans and Ohioans out there ... it's just that I've nearly fallen asleep driving through those states many a time. I would swear driving across Ohio is a week-long trip. A brother of mine who used to work in Pennsylvania liked to say that the state motto of Ohio was "Bring something to read." Doesn't work while driving, however.

Seriously, though, I've tried many a time to find worthwhile dining detours off the Interstates in Indiana and Ohio without much success. The Sterns' Road Food is not much help there. (Nor, come to think of it ... but that's for another thread.)

Katie wrote:Not having to drive through Indiana and Ohio?

Well, for me the worst part of getting any place east of here is getting around CHICAGO so that I can get to Indiana or Ohio. I've wasted way too much time parked on I294, I90, I80, around the south end of Chicago and on into Indiana while making my escape East, or returning via those routes. I can't recall EVER getting through there and back without running into some sort of traffic disaster in one or both directions.

Back when I used to go to Ft Wayne a couple times a year, the trip was 2 hours or more to get around the city, then 2 hours through Indiana to Ft Wayne. Trips to Muncie seem to break down pretty close to that.

Then there was that nightmare drip on the Ohio Turnpike. We were actually stopped in one place in traffic for THREE HOURS. We actually shut off the car in the middle of the traffic lanes and got out and walked around with everyone else.

I've never encountered anything like this heading North to Wisconsin, or West towards Iowa.

"It's the 21st century, where is my rocket pack?"

Driving through Ohio, hungry, is worse than doing same in Kansas. Trust me on this...

Geo

Katie wrote:

elakin wrote:Google tells me the quickest route is through Indiana and southern Ohio, but I'd be willing to detour south into Kentucky if something seems worth the extra effort/time.

Not having to drive through Indiana and Ohio?

Sorry, Indianans and Ohioans out there ... it's just that I've nearly fallen asleep driving through those states many a time. I would swear driving across Ohio is a week-long trip. A brother of mine who used to work in Pennsylvania liked to say that the state motto of Ohio was "Bring something to read." Doesn't work while driving, however.

Seriously, though, I've tried many a time to find worthwhile dining detours off the Interstates in Indiana and Ohio without much success. The Sterns' Road Food is not much help there. (Nor, come to think of it ... but that's for another thread.)

Y'aint kidding, Katie - BTW, as of last weekend there was almost non-advertisedroad construction between Lowell and DeMotte (State Roads 2 and 10) on 65 that closed all but one lane and added an extra hour and a half to our trip to Indianapolis. Worth a detour just to avoid, and you never know, you might find something in one of those little towns.

One word. Audiobooks.

I agree there are few known dining options in southern Ohio. I'm sure there are many hidden gems, but it was never worth my time to locate them.

I suppose of one were to go through Ohio to get to WV, I would suggest taking I-70 to Columbus, then US33/US50 to Parkersburg WV, then I-77 to I-64 in Charleston. You could make a 10-minute detour north of Parkersburg to Fenton Art Glass, and if you have time, cross the Ohio River and explore the quaint city of Marietta OH, which also happens to be the oldest city in Ohio.

Having said this, taking I-65 to Louisville and then I-64 east, is a much better route both food-wise and scenery-wise. Since going this route will take you through downtown Indianapolis, you can also make a quick stop at Shapiro's.

I've been working on my route and I can't believe no one pointed this out to me, but I'll be heading right through bourbon distillery territory. I'll be passing right near Jim Beam, Maker's Mark, Buffalo Trace, and Woodford Reserve distilleries and all of them offer drop-in tours. I'm making a mental note also to stop at some random liquor stores to check the selection of bourbons not normally available up in this neck of the woods.

Trip is shaping up nicely. My plan is to tour a farm that's doing country ham and a distillery. I'll probably eat at least one, maybe two meals in Louisville, before pressing on into WV.

When you stop at neat places to eat along Bardstown Rd. in Louisville, you're already on your way to bourbon delights. So you can kill several birds with one stone.



Geo

I've eaten here and it was very good, a real surprise after being in the woods for a week. Not too far from where you are going to be....
http://www.cafeciminocountryinn.com/cafecimino/index.html
Be sure to pick up a bag of pepperoni rolls, West Virginians love these simple, salty treats and you can buy them everywhere. (Dinner rolls baked w/roni inside.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pepperoni_roll

If you go through Beckley, WV (which I think will be on your way to the Greenbrier), check out King Tut Drive Inn.....been there since the 20s, and looks it....but has perhaps one of the best examples of West Virginia cuisine....the Slaw Dog...hot dog with extremely fine chopped slaw and onions, atop a thin (but flavorful) chili sauce. Bun is a sort of grilled, soft toast......two of these, plus a bowl of bean and country ham soup, and you're set....

great suggestions, thanks! most of my noted stops are in indiana or kentucky, so those WV suggestions are welcome.

It has been years, but I used to really enjoy this pizza...http://www.dicarlospizza.com/
They've got a bunch of locations, they use provalone and put it on after the za has cooked. Cold-cheesed I guess ya could call it....

Not sure if you left on your trip already, but if you're looking for a pretty detour, as you head east of Louisville heading towards Lexington, you should hop on the Old Frankfort Pike scenic byway. It'll take you along a quiet country lane past the horse farms and old country homes, down tree lined roads like out of the movies. To eat, stop at Wallace Station, mostly a lunch spot, but they do dinners as well. Last time I was there, they were doing a Friday night fish fry. The sandwiches are all fantastic, fresh meats and cheese, homemade ice cream and desserts, like bourbon balls. I'll try to scrounge up a menu and list some of the items, but I figured I'd post the rec now in case you were leaving on your trip real real soon. They haven't yet established an online site, though you can get some info off the Holly Hill Inn website, which I'm recommending for a fancy dinner if you're around there later in the evening. Holly Hill in is a short detour off Old Frankfort Pike, down more pretty country roads and into the tiny town of Midway. Here's a link to their site, and like I said, some info on Wallace Station as well. Wallace Station prices, for lunch, are a steal for the quality and amount of food you get. Holly Hill Inn prices are a bit steeper, but you're getting your money's worth, so it's only a question if your budget can handle the cost, not if your nervous system can handle the buyer's remorse.

http://www.hollyhillinn.com/index.shtml

My wife and I, who enjoy getting the hell off the interstate for a pretty drive and surprising hidden-away joints to eat, happened upon Wallace Station. We've been back there a couple times, and now that we've moved from Chicago to bluegrass country, we're planning more visits back.

First post, by the way. Hi, LTHforum.