“Daddy, daddy, is Hong Kong food bland?”
“Why do you ask, sweetie?”
“Some mean boy at school said it was bland! And he made it sound like a bad thing!”
“Well, Virginia, it’s complicated.”
Indeed. (The estimable Piers Egmont de Hoyden addressed this very issue in
The Evolution of Cuisine, From Cambrian to Recent Times (1961). I discovered de Hoyden in this remarkable
post by Mike G.) As I found and as I like to think de Hoyden would agree, the answer revolves not only around one’s palate and personal preferences but around one’s choice of adjectives and nouns, as well. One person’s perception of a dish might very well be that it is bland while another might describe the identical dish as delicate or subtly flavored. And both may be true to their reactions to the dish. Of course, reactions and palates notwithstanding, different words have different connotations to different people. “Bland”—to pick an adjective out of the proverbial hat—may imply negative associations to some people and not to others. But I digress.
Was our thirteen course dinner at Silver Seafood bland? Yes, some of it was. Was it enjoyable? Very much so. As has been noted, some dishes were less than edifying, for different reasons. In fairness, some of the dishes I would describe as bland, others might describe using other, less freighted, terms. But for some of the courses, I’ll stick to bland. A few I simply found uninteresting, a number, however, were definitely worth repeating. The lesson I learned from this visit was that Hong Kong food is unlikely to ever be my favorite Chinese regional cuisine. And, in fact, Chinese is never likely to be my favorite “foreign” food, either. But, in the immortal words of someone else, tomorrow is another day.
Dry Beef, Pork, Pickle, Jellyfish, CuttlefishWe began with a cold appetizer platter featuring a nice selection of items.
A small selection of the aboveJellyfish, for the uninitiated, looks for all the world like slices of onion, slow cooked over a low heat for a long time. I don’t get a lot of flavor except by what of what it’s cooked in; crunchy without being crispy. The cuttlefish looked like small planks of squid but had the perfect bite, just enough resistance (as opposed to the salt and pepper squid, see below). Smokey, delicate, flavor. Delicious. The dried beef and pork looked like slices from a terrine or a chopped sausage. Again, relatively subtle flavor, but quite delicious. I remember commenting that the beef was very beefy. I took another bite and couldn’t find a better way to describe it. I still can’t. Something (help!) made the beef taste very earthy, beefy, in a very pleasing way. I didn’t pick up the flavor of something else and truly have no idea what it was that accented it that way (or perhaps, more likely, it was the cut of beef involved...)
Dry scallops seafood soupUnreservedly wonderful. Perhaps because I didn’t find it particularly delicate or bland or lightly seasoned. I know others would disagree with my characterization but however defined, the soup was wonderful. A sour tang to it without making it a sour soup, nice depth of flavor, and a great introduction to the meal ahead. The mesh-like slices, I am reliably informed, are fish maw. They lacked much flavor or texture and the dried scallops didn't seem to be in evidence (having, presumably, disintegrated). However it’s done, it’s great. (I have a different name than Stagger based on my reading of the menu, but I might be in error; kuhdo is the expert here.)
Crispy skin chicken (with shrimp chips)Fried, hacked, juicy, and delicious. Accompanied by small dishes filled with finely ground mixed salt and pepper, it would be hard to dislike this (unless, I suppose, you simply don’t like chicken). The crispy skin, the juicy meat… Not a terribly complex dish nor a dish of many layered flavors, but a perfect example of “less is more.”
Clams with black bean sauceUnlike Stagger, I (and at least several others sitting near me), found this unexceptional. The dish—a beautiful presentation, by the way—simply didn’t excite or impress me. Perfectly acceptable but no more than that. I wouldn’t refuse it if it were on the table but I wouldn’t order it and wouldn’t recommend it, either. Perhaps it’s a delicate/bland issue, but I don’t think so. Instead, what I disliked about it was that I found the sauce uninteresting. Neither subtle nor presenting a depth of flavors, the sauce simply lacked interest or character and so. Those of us who didn’t actively dislike it agreed, I think, that it was simply nothing special.
Lobster in lobster sauceThere was lobster in them thar shells, you just had to do your own cracking to get at it. The lobster was cooked, hacked into serving size pieces (sort of) and sauced. Enjoyable but for the effort. (I couldn’t find this on the menu though I may have missed it. Encountering the dish for us was the fortuitous result of kuhdo doing the ordering and having a server who knew him!)
Pea shoots with garlicExcellent and extremely popular dish. Neither especially delicate nor especially strongly flavored, this just married the lovely fresh flavor of the pea shoots with the perfect sauce. If not the first, it was one of the very first dishes to disappear.
Steamed whole fish (bass)I do not have a strong memory of this dish other than that it was pleasant (I think that’s called damning with faint praise). The fish was cooked well, the sauce/broth pleasant but not something that stuck in my mind, either positively or negatively. I enjoyed it, I believe, but wouldn’t note it as something to be sure to order in the future.
a brief pause to introduce some of our companions: leek, Stagger, kuhdo[picture not taken]
Ong choy with fermented beancurdNot as popular overall with the table but a hit with me. I found the
ong choy, also known as water spinach, to be a bit more effort to chew but I greatly enjoyed the sauce. It is one thing to read “fermented beancurd” and go, “eeeeeww” but, like fish sauce, it’s an ingredient whose name belies a depth and deliciousness that’s hard to beat.
Chinese sausage (Lap Cheong) fried riceI liked this just fine but it was also completely ordinary. I have had the same dish elsewhere many times, usually made and tasting about the same. A few places have nailed it but this was pretty much unexceptional. (For what it’s worth, it is listed on the Chinese menu only—not the Chinese-American menu, as is the case with a number of items that we ordered.)
Pigeon with green onionIt’s hard to disagree with Stagger’s description above. It certainly wasn’t a bad dish; there just wasn’t anything to like about it. It was overdone in every way and, if you were lucky enough to find a real bite of meat, you would have been more fortunate than I was. I’d probably agree to give it another shot, though largely out of curiosity. Eminently skip-able in our rendition.
[picture not taken]
Fish two waysThe steamed filet was very good and, I suspect, exemplary of what kuhdo and others refer to when they speak about Hong Kong food being delicately or lightly seasoned. This was precisely that. The fish was steamed perfectly and held together just enough to get to your mouth before dissolving in a nicely complementary sauce. No overpowering flavors, more accents, if you will. The battered, deep-fried bones were, um, uh…. Well, they were, uh… Not to my taste. As instructed, we sucked the little meat that was there (the bones were so delicate than any other approach would have resulted in a mouthful of bones), but all I ended up with was a mouth full of smaller bones, gelatinous bone-holding-together stuff, and skin. Someone’s delicacy perhaps, but not mine. (Another dish I am unable to identify on the menu; the English names are not always sufficient to be certain, but my suspicion is that a description of the dish would enable anyone to order it.)
Deep-fried duck with taroAs I said to kuhdo, Chinese
kishke. The outside could have been crisper (and no, I don't know where most of it was; this pic was snapped as it was placed on our table)—which would have added—though my pieces were crispy enough to enjoy the aim of the dish. The duck was just ducky (sorry, couldn’t resist)—which is to say not at all dry (somehow juicy is never a word I associate with duck) and very toothsome. The taro “coating” reminded me, as has been noted, of nothing so much as mashed potatoes but, for something that sounds unappetizing, it was one of my favorites of the evening. The dish was again, lightly seasoned, but it worked entirely. Perhaps this is a dish that is more about texture than flavor. I find, as I experiment with restaurants, cuisines, approaches to cooking, and so forth, that too often we focus on flavor to the exclusion (or at least the relegation) of anything else. Sometimes—as with this taro duck—the tremendous variety of textures within a single dish are a delightful surprise. I can see how even crispier skin would have added to the effect, but I liked it fine the way I had it.
Salt and pepper squidThere is, I find, no matter the cuisine, a range of acceptable for the freshness of squid. Ideally, it is what I would call, for lack of a more accurate descriptor,
al dente, a slight resistance to the tooth, a texture that is at once appealing in its firmness and delectable for its nearly immediate acquiescence. The normal range encompasses a lot of presentations and earns anywhere from a B to an A+. I found that this squid was farther down the normal range, about a B+. Not chewy and yet not quite as “acquiescent” as I would have hoped. That said, it was clear that this dish came from the deep fryer only moments before. It, too, fell into the delicately seasoned category. I liked it well enough, but this dish exemplified why Hong Kong cuisine will never be my favorite. A nice counterpoint in an otherwise spicier, more assertive meal, perhaps, but coming at the end of a meal which was largely somewhere in my delicate-to-bland universe, it was sort of the squid that broke the camel’s back. I found myself wanting more: more flavor, more spice, more…something! I could enjoy it on its own terms. I can even see others relishing it with enthusiasm (albeit with even fresher squid). But when following what preceded, it was just a little too little, instead of a little too much.
Two hours later...Clearly, going to Silver Seafood (or any restaurant) with a large group enables you to taste from a fairly wide sampling of dishes. The Lovely Dining Companion and I overordered and were still quite limited in the number of things we could have. The group’s ordering power allowed us to sample thirteen dishes, a respectable number under any circumstances. And it would have been surprising to me if all nine of us at the table enjoyed all thirteen dishes without exception. We didn’t. Some of us liked things that others wouldn’t touch. And vice versa. But I learned a thing or two about Hong Kong cuisine—and that was my aim. For those who are only now joining this thread, kuhdo’s advice
upthread is an excellent, very well-conceived, short paragraph of ordering advice. Keeping his advice in mind, I looked at the back of the menu for the large group pre-set menus and found many of the dishes we ordered there. For this advice alone I am greatly indebted to kuhdo. For his explanations, teaching, and irreplaceable assistance on Saturday night, I am greatly in his debt. We won’t be agreeing on Hong Kong cuisine any time soon—but then, I’ll be more careful about my word choice in the future, too. Although there are dishes that fully (and richly) deserve the epithet “bland”—even at Hong Kong restaurants—the word can mislead and my lesson is to consider what I write more carefully.
I should note that service was bumpy. We were served our cold appetizer fairly quickly. Then, after a slight delay, soup bowls were presented. Between the bowls and the soup, however, was a very, very long wait. Then, as feared and imagined, nine dishes all followed very quickly. Needless to say, a more even spacing would have been easier for everyone (servers included); I have noticed on both visits to Silver Seafood that a very few servers cover a large, busy room. I’m not familiar enough with the restaurant to speculate, but I can and will say that way in which we were served didn’t help. However, we were enjoying the meal and the company enough that the delay was a bump, albeit not entirely minor. Then, as we were winding down from the onslaught, we realized that two dishes were still missing; either the server or the kitchen (or both) had forgotten them. The duck gave every indication of having been made and then allowed to sit in the kitchen, forgotten. The squid came out so hot from the fryer that its delayed appearance can only have resulted from inattention on someone’s part. Still, service was (usually) with a smile and the glitches did not truly detract from a fun time.
Plates of almond cookies, fortune cookies, and sliced oranges completed the meal. Except, sadly, for one diner. Nicole’s fortune cookie:

Thanks to all those who came; it was fun and delicious and I’d even do it again!
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)