Putting aside my discomfort over the heavy host-to-guest familiarity factor at Bapi's, I have to say that the food just wasn't very good, IMO. None of it had any 'oomph' to it. Even a salad of asparagus, lentils, beets and blue cheese came off as bland. More on the food in a moment.
This is a spot which appears to be heavily frequented by regulars. The host hugged just about everyone who came into the place and kissed just about everyone as they left. In this sense, it reminded me a lot of being in Italy, where I frequently witnessed this sort of friendly behavior. There was a genuineness to it that I could appreciate but being a first-timer, it was a bit awkward because the space is very small and it was clear that he had to dial it back quite a bit for us.
Starters we tried included the insalata di mare, which was somewhat devoid of flavor, a sub-perfunctory rotolino di melanzane and the calamari fritti, which was hot, crispy and heavy on the tentacles, which was nice. Rounding out our salads were the insalata mista, which was fresh and bouncy, the caesar, which was tasty and topped with an insane amount of parmigiano reggiano, and the fennel and orange salad with shrimp, in which the individual components were, again, somewhat flavorless.
We tried 4 pastas, 3 of which I enjoyed. The Garganelli allo Speck, Zucchine e Mascarpone was tasty and rich, and the individual flavors really came through -- especially the salty speck. I also enjoyed the Rigatoni alla Buttera, which contained some nicely-spiced sausage and a zesty sauce. While I enjoyed the Gnocchi al Gorgonzola, others at the table felt the same way about it that they felt about many of the other dishes -- it lacked flavor and punch. I personally am not a huge fan of blue cheeses, so I actually enjoyed the mild, faint hint of gorgonzola it delivered, while the others were disappointed by its blandness.
I wasn't crazy about the entree offerings, which all seemed very 'safe' to me. Several of them were simply grilled meats with very non-descript sides, like roasted or mashed potatoes. Even my 11-year-old son commented on the "basic preparations" that were being offered.
Portions were generous, though. The rack of lamb, for example, was a full 8 ribs and it was cooked well but covered in brown sauce and served atop some chopped, mixed veggies, it lacked any distinction. The stuffed chicken was typically dry breast meat with a bland filling and the Scalopine di Vitello didn't ring any bells, either. We did, however, enjoy the The Costoletta di Maiale alla Milanese, which was a better-than-average rendition of wienerschnitzel.
For dessert, we all shared a serving of the panna cotta, which was extremely firm and somewhat rubbery. Served with it were some deceptively nice-looking slices of crunchy strawberry.
I can't say I was impressed and with tax and tip, the bill was $60 per person, which didn't make it much of a value either (we did order 2 bottles of wine @ $30/each). If you're seeking Italian in the northern suburbs, I'd head to Francesco's Hole in the Wall or Cafe Lucci, which I believe, are both superior to Bapi.
=R=
Francesco's Hole in the Wall
254 Skokie Blvd
Northbrook, IL 60062
847 272-0155
Cafe Lucci
609 Milwaukee Ave
Glenview, IL 60025
847 729-2268
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