I lived in Rome last summer for a study abroad program. Good times.

By FAR the best gelato I've ever had in my entire life is at "Old Bridge" Gelateria. It's right near the entrance of the Vatican Museum. Yes, many tourists are there. But aren't you a tourist too? At night there is still a long line of locals. It's amazing. My classmates and I walked there everynight. I recommend the pistachio ice cream.

Also - Piazza Navona is a big time tourist trap. Go - but don't eat there. OFF the piazza, however, on Via del Governo Vecchio is Pizzeria da Baffeto. It's really good, traditional. paper-thin, Roman pizza. Cash only, of course.

Gusto is also a good time.

Campo di Fiore is a popular hangout at night as is Trastevere.

Buon viaggio!

I'm heading to Rome next month and if you've been there recently and have some suggestions on where to eat and drink, I'd love to hear from you! Thanks!

You might consider using the "Search" feature and focusing on the "Beyond Chicagoland" board. It will turn up a number of previous threads, including mine as well as eatchicago's.

Check out this article on Rome's tratorria from the New York Times:
http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/03/22/tr ... ref=dining

Thanks, guys. Yes, I saw the NY Times article yesterday, which was great. Also discovered these two resources in case anyone else finds them helpful...

http://idisk.mac.com/mbfant-Public?view=web (download her PDF)
http://missexpatria.wordpress.com/2007/ ... t-in-rome/

Krista

Full disclosure - the actual write-ups on these came from a friend, but I personally vouch for all of them (and have eaten at each at LEAST 3 times, or in the case of the gelato places, 10!)

Dar Poeta, Vicolo del Bologna, 45 - Located in the Trastevere neighborhood (across the Tiber); admittedly hard to find, this pizzeria serves some of the best pizza in Rome. Great calzone deserts, too -- the nutella/ricotta one is worth the trip to Rome. Not at all fancy, just delicious. No English menu, no reservations and no seats after 8p, so get there by 7:45p or you will be waiting in line. (Despite a recent write-up in Bon Appetit, it still attracts a largely Roman clientele.)

Da Luigi, Piazza Sforza Cesarini, 24, off the CVE2 on the left just after you pass the Chiesa Nuova – has a large outdoor seating area. Closed Mondays.

Matricianella, Via del Leone, 4. Great trattoria - make sure to try any of the fritti as an appetizer. Closed Sundays.

Giolitti, Via Uffici del Vicario, 40 - probably the most famous gelateria in Rome. Go crazy here and make sure to top off your cone with panna or whipped cream.

Gelato di San Crispino, near the Trevi Fountain at Via della Panetteria, 42 - generally regarded now as having surpassed Giolitti as Rome’s best. No cones, only cups.

Tazza D’Oro, Via degli Orfani, 84 - right by the Pantheon. The name means “cup of gold.” Even if you don’t like coffee, stop by in the afternoon and get a granita di caffe to go (per portare via). Almost like having a coffee milkshake. You’ll like it.

You know, since I'm in Rome right now, these incredible posts (and the unbelievably terrific linked ones from eatchicago and gypsyboy) shouldn't fill me with despair, but my awareness that even in three more days I can't possibly hit even the high points makes me very sad. I am also sorry I have no easy access to a printer to print some of these suggestions out.

On the other hand, I am happy to say that I found both Old Bridge gelato and Blue Ice on my own. Here's a photo from the latter, provocatively posed on a trash can!

I am so JEALOUS! Enjoy your time; I have no doubt that with all your research and great instincts, you'll have a wonderful time, no matter where you choose to go.

Just a few belated notes from my wonderful week in Rome at the beginning of May.

1. Pizzarium is actually very easy to find. It's just around the corner from the Cipro stop on the Red Line, which is the stop you'll use if you're going to the Vatican Museum. . I was there too early in the morning for any variety, but people shouldn't be dissuaded from seeking it out.



2. Markets. I know this is hardly original, but it may help to know that every district has them. Mine (I was at a conference just outside the Vatican) was Mercata Della Piazza Unica. Strawberries were in season.

3. Ann's grand theory of eating in Rome. Become a regular. Obviously you can't really do that, but the smartest thing I did the whole week was to go back to a neighborhood place where I'd had a perfectly fine meal, but knew, looking around, that I was missing a lot.

The first time, we ordered a bottle of wine. Not expensive, but not cheap, either. The second time I knew to ask for the house wine, even though it wasn't mentioned anywhere on the menu and to ask for the appetizer buffet, even though it was hidden off in what looked like a former closet behind the third dining room.


Altogether an entirely different experience and somehow more satisfying than going across town to some more-acclaimed spot.

4. Finally, just repeating what others have said: the places right on the piazza with the multi-lingual menus are likely to be expensive and disappointing, but if you just go a block or two away, you're likely to be the only American in the room, and even though there may be a language barrier, you'll be welcomed and well-fed. I certainly was.

Pizzaria Pizzarium
Via della Meloria, 43

Piacere Molise
Via Candia 60 (also very close to the Cipro stop) (Closed Thursdays).

Collected food photos from the trip in this flickr set

Ann's grand theory of eating in Rome. Become a regular. Obviously you can't really do that, but the smartest thing I did the whole week was to go back to a neighborhood place where I'd had a perfectly fine meal

This, by the way, is an excellent m.o. for dining in most European countries. It often transforms the "tourist" into "old acquaintance" and frequently results in both memorable meals and memorable experiences.

FoodieTours wrote:
OFF the piazza, however, on Via del Governo Vecchio is Pizzeria da Baffeto. It's really good, traditional. paper-thin, Roman pizza. Cash only, of course.

I heartily second this recommendation. I had a delicious pizza here (with an egg on top!) when I was in Rome in October.

I found a bit (small amount) of Naples info from Katie Parla's website, it appears that she
primarily writes about Rome & Istanbul.

Might be of use to some folks.

Sweet Willie wrote:I found a bit (small amount) of Naples info from Katie Parla's website, it appears that she
primarily writes about Rome & Istanbul.

Sweet Willie, your post reminded me that I've been meaning to post some pictures from a Rome trip earlier this year. Thanks to turkob's shoutout in another Rome thread, we indulged at several of the restaurants/cafes/gelaterie recommended by Katie Parla.

We had lunch at Pizzarium which I thought was very solid, but didn't blow my mind. In all fairness, this is not my favorite style of pizza (I'm a thin crust/Napolitano gal). The ingredients on the pizza were excellent and I was surprised by how good their suppli' were (given their reputation is all about pizza)

Pizzarium






Asparagus suppli' at Pizzarium



One of our favorite meals was at Flavio de Velavevodetto in Testaccio.
Interestingly, Parla noted on her website that they seemed to have slid a bit since opening a second location. Our meal there was excellent--their pastas, in particular were tremendous (the best version of cacio e pepe I've ever had). Unfortunately, my camera battery died about 5 minutes after we arrived.





We had fun perusing the interesting gelato flavors at Il Laboratorio del Gelato (I can't remember, but in the end, I think I ended up with some fairly pedestrian flavors like chocolate and pistachio)

Il Laboratorio del Gelato


Interesting flavors at LdG (e.g. Wasabi, Gorgonzola, Bell Pepper, Celery, Green Tea et al)




I didn't take pics but Roscioli was another great Parla suggestion (we had sandwiches at their bakery in Prati the day after eating at the restaurant). They had an amazing caponata and I could not get their carbonara out of mind.

We were traveling with friends who spend a lot of time in Rome. After seeing Gypsy Boy's post about Buca di Ripetta, I suggested we try it for dinner. Turns out, it's one of our friends' favorite spots in Rome. We had a great meal there. We tried several preparations with fresh porcinis--the best was a simple roasted porcini antipasto. Their bucatini d'Amatriciana and carbonara were exceptional.

Buca di Ripetta
Fresh porcinis


Cacio e pepe


Amatriciana

Stumbled across this oldie and thought just for the heck, toss in my two cents...after all I failed to do so at the Trevi.

I'll add my kudos to the Pizzeria da Baffeto on Via del Governo Vecchio. Simply the best pizza I have ever enjoyed, and I own a pizzeria! And for simple, and quite local grub we whole-heartedly recommend the Taverna Anitoquia ( or how ever it's really spelled ). Simple plates, wonderful pastas, great house wines...and fun sitting in the crowd not having a clue the conversation you're surrounded in, and not caring. Would LOVE to go back soon if anyone feels like funding the trip!