Paris in August?

I'm hoping that some of the experienced travelers on board will be able be give me some advice. My husband and I have an opportunity to go to Paris for three nights in mid-August. We're excited, but know that many restaurants are closed during that time. I just called one of my favorites - Les Bouquinistes - and indeed they are closed from August 8-24. So, I'm really hoping for some suggestions. We are staying in the St. Germain area. As I mentioned, we love Les Bouquinistes, but have also enjoyed Ze Kitchen Gallerie in the past. We'd like to do one really nice meal while there, but are happy with smaller, more casual meals as well. Would love any and all suggestions!

Thanks!
Tracey

It's not nearby, but I love Bofinger for the spectacle and oysters even if choucroute isn't exactly what you'd think first of eating during August. (I believe it's open even during August.) Then take a walk around the Place des Vosges after dinner.

As mentioned in the Paris thread, I really enjoyed Les Papilles which is probably near where you're staying. Be forewarned, there is only one menu and if you are a picky eater, you'll be stuck with what they give you. Not sure if it's open in August but it's worth looking up.

Thank you both for the suggestions. Tyrus - I love the idea of going with their menu and not making any choices! I'll look into both of these.

We were in Paris last August (stayed in the St. Germain area also) and had a great dinner at Les Relais de l'Entrecôte. We were looking for steak frites and l'Entrecote was recommended by our concierge. They only serve steak frites. You start with a basic salad with vinaigrette, your waitress asks how you like your steak done and they will keep bringing you steak and frites until you ask them to stop. The sauce on the steak is a combo of butter, garlic, mustard and herbs and is the best sauce on a steak I have ever had. My family is still talking about the sauce today! Their wine list is decent and their dessert menu is 2 pages long. We loved the place and it would be one of the first places I would go to on a return trip.

http://www.relaisentrecote.fr/uk/index.html

We also enjoyed Le Procope. It's one of the oldest restaurants in Paris and was about 3 doors down from our hotel. Cool for the history and the food.

http://www.procope.com/

Oh Diane - you read my mind! We don't get into Paris until rather late on our first night, and I was thinking that Relais would be our dinner that evening since it's very near the hotel. Thanks!

TSmitty wrote:Oh Diane - you read my mind! We don't get into Paris until rather late on our first night, and I was thinking that Relais would be our dinner that evening since it's very near the hotel. Thanks!

We stayed in the Best Western on the same street as Le Procope. Not a Best Western like we think of here in the US, but a small reasonably priced boutique hotel!
I'm craving the steak sauce right now, it was that good.

I leave for Paris on September 4 so be sure to let us know everywhere you ate! One of my favorite places is l'Ourcine.

Berthillon on the Ile St. Louis (since 1954) has the finest ice cream and sorbet in Paris. It has always been closed during August (at least when I have been there) but their website says nothing about that. Keep your eyes open-several cafes serve Berthillon ice cream-and their website lists a number of places that you can buy it. Below is the link to that list and the main store location and metro information. If you click around the home page you can also see the list of flavors they offer, which is a beautiful thing.

http://www.berthillon.fr/mag/fr/page-112619.htm

http://www.berthillon.fr/mag/fr/page-112620.htm

Berthillon
29-31 rue St. Louis en l'Ile
Paris
10AM- 8PM

Josephine wrote:Berthillon on the Ile St. Louis (since 1954) has the finest ice cream and sorbet in Paris. It has always been closed during August (at least when I have been there) but their website says nothing about that. Keep your eyes open-several cafes serve Berthillon ice cream-and their website lists a number of places that you can buy it. Below is the link to that list and the main store location and metro information. If you click around the home page you can also see the list of flavors they offer, which is a beautiful thing.

http://www.berthillon.fr/mag/fr/page-112619.htm

http://www.berthillon.fr/mag/fr/page-112620.htm

Berthillon
29-31 rue St. Louis en l'Ile
Paris
10AM- 8PM

Oh honey Berthillon is notoriously closed every summer from mid-July until the beginning of September. You can get their ice cream elsewhere but it's just not the same experience.

Check out my friend David Lebovitz's blog for the definitive list on Paris ice cream/gelato shops.
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2 ... eam_1.html

As a Frenchman who lived in the 6th arrondissement for many years and still goes there on a regular basis, may I make a few suggestions of nice bistros and restaurants that are open in August: But you check the info on their respective sites on the Internet.

Cafe Constant 139 Rue St Dominique and Les Cocottes , on the same sidewalk Rue Saint Dominique in the 7th.
(2 very good bistros)
Chantairelle 17 rue Laplace in the 5th ( very picturesque. very tasty cuisine from Auvergne)
Les Vignes du Pantheon 4 Rue des Fossés St Jaques in the 5th ( they might be closed in early August)
La Bastide Odeon 7 rue Corneille in the 6th ( provencal cuisine)
Le comptoir du Relais 9 carrefour de l'odeon 6th ( modern bistro)
Aux Charpentiers, 10 rue Mabillon 6th ( old traditional Bistro)
La fontaine de Mars 129 Rue Saint Dominique in the 5th (good cassoulet and duck)
Polidor 41 rue Monsieur le Prince in the 5th ( very simple bistro but charming)
La rotisserie d'en face 2 rue Christine in the 6th ( good and open late)

L'Ambassade d'Auvergne 22 rue du Grenier Saint Lazarre in the 3rd ( very goood traditional restaurant with fanatstic cuisne from Auvergne)
And of course 2 old but still good brasseries:
Le Balzar 49 rue des Ecoles in the 5th
La Coupole 102 Boulevard Montparnasse in the 14th but close to the 6th

You can find a few descriptions ( dated 2006) on my blog: French Virtual Cafe

Alain40

Alain - thank you so much for the comprehensive list. I will print it out to take along - most helpful!

We knew that Berthillon would be closed, but as mentioned, at least we can find the ice cream in other shops. I know, not the same, but still fabulous!

Alain-

I don't know if you'll check back in on this thread, but on the outside chance that you do, I just wanted to tell you that your blog is absolutely fantastic! I spent a better part of this morning reading about French wines, bistros, brasseries and some of your favorites. I feel like I've been given some wonderful insider information, and I will be taking many notes before our trip. Thank you for providing the link!

T Smitty

Thanks for the compliment.
I would however advise you to be careful about taking the infos contained in my list of Paris favorite restaurants, because things change often in the restaurant business. And I wrote most of these notes quite a while ago.
If you want to spend some more money go to L'atelier de Joel Robuchon, the famous chef, rue Montalembert, at the intersection of Rue du Bac. It's good and open in August.
Also you may go to Le Petit Lutetia on rue de Sevres in the 7th its a very good old fasioned bistro and is usually open in August.
But, please check on the Internet to make sure that La Fontaine de Mars and Vagenende are open.

Good Luck

Alain

Alain -

I will definitely check on openings for all of your listings. I'm just happy that I have such a great list to start with - that's more than half the battle for me. Finding the times and dates won't be a problem at all!

Thank you again-
Tracey

So Tracey, how was your trip to Paris last August. Any interesting restaurant discoveries?
Let us know when you have a minute
Thanks.

Alain-

Thank you for reminding me to post! I've been meaning to do so and seeing the thread again was the impetus I needed.

Our trip was wonderful - far too short though. We actually looked into and followed many of your suggestions. Our first night we walked to Les Cocottes for a late dinner. It was the perfect place for our first evening - we were tired from traveling and the low key atmosphere and homey food was just right. We were able to sit at the bar immediately and enjoyed having a glass of wine while watching all the food go by. We had starters of salad and foie gras followed by a lamb dish. Too tired for much else at this point, but a wonderful start.

My favorite meal of the trip was the next night. We were celebrating our anniversary and had made reservations at Le Violon d'Ingres. I specifically chose the restaurant because I had read of their excellent cassoulet. It is one of my husband's favorite dishes, and although not the type of thing one would normally order in August, I wanted him to have the opportunity. Our entire meal was wonderful. I had a starter of seared foie gras with grilled peaches and a balsamic and honey drizzle that nearly brought tears to my eyes it was so good! My husband did order the cassoulet (despite the fact that it was one of the warmest days of the summer in Paris!) and thoroughly enjoyed it. The restaurant was refined yet very comfortable and our service was excellent.

On our last full day, we were able to book a table for lunch at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. What an experience! We started by ordering a few small plates, but then asked our server to just bring us some things. We were afraid that we were only ordering things we were familiar with and by asking the server to choose, we thought we would be able to try more new dishes. One of the things I enjoyed most was le pied du cochon -something I may not have ordered on my own, but ended up loving.

In between meals, there were quite a few trips to Laduree for macarons - the macarons I've found in Chicago just don't compare!

So thanks to you and the suggestions from LTH, we found that although there were many restaurants closed for holiday, we were still able to have an absolutely fantastic time and enjoy memorable meals start to finish.

Thanks to all for the help!
Tracey

We also went to Robuchon but for dinner for our trip in September. Quite the experience. It's worth the price of the meal just to watch the kitchen work their magic.

Tracey,
I'm so glad you visited two of the Constant restaurants Rue Saint Dominique. I had suggested the Cafe Constant, the most affordable of the four he owns on the same sidewalk. I did not know that the Violon d'Ingres, his flagship establishment was opened in August. But les Cocottes is one of my favorites. I've never tried the 4th: Les fables de la Fontaine.
L'Atelier de Robuchon is a great address, rue Montalembert, but it is so difficult to get in. Lucky you. I tried without success 2 weeks ago.
I was in Paris 2 weeks ago and focused my attention on small neighborhood brasseries and bistrots, especially those offering specialties from the Auvergne. My best and most flavorful, and very affordable at lunch, was the charming le Minzingue Place Etienne Pernet in the 15th arrondissement at the end of rue du Commerce. It has a beautiful selection of reasonably priced regional wines.
All the best

Alain

Alain,

Again, I want to thank you for all of your suggestions. I've written down your most recent find that you mentioned should we be lucky enough to return to Paris (and will also continue to check your blog). I'm sorry that you weren't able to make it to L'Atelier on your trip - I guess there were some advantages we had due to being there during the slow times in August! We really loved the idea that the seating is designed to encourage conversation amongst the diners. We found ourselves chatting with a couple from Spain that owned a gastronomic restaurant and other diners about our wonderful meal.

In the meantime, I attempted to make cassoulet now that the weather has turned in Chicago. Good lord - I have many things to learn!!!

Regards-
Tracey