Finally made it to Mado and am wowed. Pretty full on a Wednesday, thanks to the NYT article, and I am not sure if the crowd always looks as intellectual as they did last night, though I can say for sure that the guys at the next table were there due to the NYT, and this is the first time I have discussed Libertarian economics versus environmentalism, if briefly, with a waitress. Brainy looking crowd.
And the food.
Cured smelts, delectable. Preparation reminded me more of white sardines with exquisite olive oil than smelts (and does Lake Erie count as local?), but grand in any case.
Head cheese was an interesting and much more enjoyable variation. More finely ground and subtly flavored than what I have tasted and not liked so much in the past. Had some crunch in there, too.
Corned beef tongue on toast with mustard and a tiny sprinkle of salt crystals was the smoothest and most luxurious corned beef I have ever experienced. Repeatedly recommended by the waitress and we were glad we finally submitted.
Arugula salad with slivers of this and that crispy vegetable was good.
Grilled asparagus with the largest darned duck egg I have ever seen suffered only in comparison to a similar dish I had last week at Vie - sort of like deciding which incredibly beautiful woman is preferable, if you know what I mean.
Wood grilled sweetbreads were probably the high point. Nice rub, great hickory flavor, slight crust and tender and sweet inside.
The only thing that came close to a disappointment was the mixed grill - pork heart and sausage with judeon beans and mustard greens. It looked very pretty and probably would have been great earlier, but after two hours of grazing, and a whole lot of wonderful wine, the stakes were high, and I found the heart underseasoned and unexciting, the sausage very tasty but a wee bit dry and the greens and beans fine, but nothing special. A fine dish really, but it paled in comparison to what came before.
Finished with the Migas Bark, in part for the amusement of my dining companion, who was up from Austin.
Excellent ingredients, simple but very well executed preparations, and a good palate behind it all, at least for what I ordered that night. Nicely seasoned and interestingly composed dishes, confident, but not showy.
Comparisons with Bonsoiree above are interesting as I had considered going there or S&S first, before settling on Mado. Having only experienced each one once, I had a much better, and less expensive, meal at Mado. I do plan to go to both Mado & Bonsoiree again sometime, though most likely Mado much sooner, so I can get a second experience. I think that what is being done at Mado is much more interesting, but only if one likes offal, I suppose.
We ate and drank and I found the final bill, $36 each, a true bargain for all the handcrafted delights. No shortcuts there. Probably will stick with the antipasti and charcuterie/salumi next time, and try an older riesling as an accompaniment.
d
Feeling (south) loopy