Mama Desta's Red Sea
3216 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60657
(773) 935-7561
Mama Desta's was the first Ethiopian restaurant I'd eaten at. It was about fifteen or so years ago, with a bunch of friends, and a lot of jokes about getting expecting to be served one pea and one grain of rice. It was novel back then, and I've had Ethiopian food a few times since, notably
Ras Dashen and
Addis Abeba in the Chicago area, and at least once elsewhere, I think.
We were in the Belmont/Clark neighborhood last night for Joe Jackson at the Vic, and with Ethiopia relatively fresh in our minds from the
"Lucy" exhibit in Houston, it sounded like a good idea.
The biggest issue, I think, is atmosphere. How can a place painted inside in primary colors look drab? I don't know, but it does. There are few tables, and it looks empty and dull. Didn't help set the mood. There were only two other tables occupied while we were there (only one other for most of the time).
The menu is much more limited than, say, Addis Abeba, missing items such as fresh cheese which was a favorite of ours at other places. There are fewer explanations of the items, and the "Dinners for Two" have several dishes not listed elsewhere on the menu.
We had the Dinner for Two #2 ($35.95). It featured a lamb and a chicken dish (I think one was a Tibs the other a Wat), cabbage, lentils and spinach. It came with soup (a tasty, though salty veggie soup), and choice of appetizer. Our Sambusas were OK -- a little charred on the exterior and perhaps overly bready, but I don't know what's standard for this dish.
The meat dishes were tasty and spicy but dry: perhaps excusable at the end of the evening, but not at 6PM. The veggies were the better items: the spinach full of garlic, the lentils nicely spiced, and the cabbage crunchy and flavorful. The injera (the big spongy flatbread for those not in the know) is among the best I've had: soft, smooth and nicely sour. Dessert was some kind of "custard" that tasted kind of cheesecakey, with straw- and raspberries, very good.
This neighborhood isn't known for great chow, and unfortunately, Mama Desta's can't do much to improve that status. I'd go to the other locations listed above first... but we could use other suggestions for the neighborhood of The Alley, The Vic, Blue Man, etc. There's a row of restos on Belmont of Ann Sather's, Standard India Restaurant, a falafel place... any of those worthwhile?
[edit -- blessed be the moderators who merged my thread. I
did search for "Desta" and the board failed me]
What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang