Had a great time dining with LTHers at Charcoal Oven last night. Now that Phil, who bought the place in 1949, has pretty much turned over the operation to his daughter Maria and her husband, Rich, a lot is changing. (Although, Maria noted that her father, 86, still calls in "every 15 minutes" to make sure the place is still running correctly.)
Maria and Rich are making a lot of the changes, doing some of the work themselves, but they're still firmly committed to the retro atmosphere which is what makes Charcoal Oven so special. Among the shocking changes: a new roof, tuckpointing the building, and replacing the fuse box that ran neon on the landmark sign with a circuit breaker box. They were concerned that replacing the fuse box would eliminate the slight flicker of the lights in the dining room, which some have said is evidence of ghosts in the basement. They didn’t need to be concerned – the lights still flicker and apparently the ghosts are still partying down there.
The first, most obvious change is the new paint job on the exterior. Coming from the west, there will be a large mural on the side of the building. It’ll look like you’re seeing through the brick wall into the main dining room, including balloon-style quotes actually overheard from patrons. Rich is doing the painting himself. He said it should be done by Friday.
As of Wednesday night, outlines of the mural were visible.There’s also an element of playfulness in the parking lot.
Note the fork in the hand on the handicapped parking symbol.But inside, while the interior has been brightened a bit, it could still be straight out of one of Chicago's finer-dining establishments in the 1950s.
Note Phil’s frugality. The banner over the front alcove was originally put up for the 50th anniversary of Phil’s purchase of the place. They just pasted over the “50” with a “60” for the 60th anniversary, earlier this year.Prices are reasonable, considering the large portions and all the extras that come along – most entrées in the high teens or low 20s.
Everyone was started with a well-prepared lentil soup, prepared from scratch in-house (as is almost everything at Charcoal Oven).
Lentil Soup is never particularly photogenic. (Warning – many servings are far more delicious than they appear.)
The salads are a basic blend of house-grown tomatoes and romaine. But the salads are really a showcase for the house-made dressings, which Sonja has been making for the restaurant for decades. I tried the Creamy Garlic dressing – light, ethereal, but packing a definite garlic wallop.

But
my favorite is the chunky, Creamy Blue Cheese dressing. Tarte Tatin visibly swooned over her Blue Cheese salad dressing.
I didn’t get a picture of the house rolls – so rich they don’t need butter. But I did get a photo of the house-made potato chips.
It’s probably a disservice to call these potato chips. They’re slightly thick, have a great crunch, and not at all greasy.The vegetable of the night was simply prepared, perfectly done, flavorful asparagus.
The serving was much more generous than this looks. My dining companions attacked the asparagus before I could get the dish in front of my camera.My favorite entrée, when available, is the skate. Sauteed, with herbs, and with a breadcrumb coating, it was a bit of crunch followed by pure seafood succulence.
And it was quite a large serving.Everyone else had lamb chops. Again, simply prepared with Greek herbs, a very tasty dish.
With lamb chops this good, who can blame the others for all ordering the same thing?One small criticism of Charcoal Oven in the past is that meats tend to be cooked slightly past the degree of doneness requested. Tarte Tatin asked for her lamb to be still baah-ing.
She got it.Stuffed, we all still agreed to try Charcoal Oven’s not-too-sweet, cinnamon-y rice pudding.
Ten minutes after this picture was taken, the dish was scraped completely empty.One of Charcoal Oven’s signature touches is giving diners something to take home – usually tomatoes, sometimes a freshly-baked loaf of bread.
It’s been a tough summer for growing tomatoes. We only got one each. It’s going on the pizza I’m making tomorrow night.Tarte Tatin was even luckier. Maria heard her praise for the Blue Cheese dressing.
Tarte Tatin went home with a generous helping.Charcoal Oven is a small place, under the same family ownership for over 60 years. Weeknights, it’s basically a two-person operation. They run out of things from time to time. The retro quirkiness may not be appreciated by everyone. But the retro atmosphere, friendly owners (at least when they’re not too busy), and unique touches (e.g. tomatoes as a going-away present) are only some of the reasons I nominated Charcoal Oven for a GNR.
Last edited by
nr706 on September 4th, 2009, 12:48 am, edited 2 times in total.