The French Laundry - Yountville, CA

I've been wanting to visit the French Laundry for a long, long time. Somewhere on the order of 8-9 years, I believe. But I remember exactly when it became a must. Alain Ducasse, with whom I'm sure you're all familiar, did an interview for Le Monde. At this point, I'd had the opportunity to dine at Ducasse's Louis XV in both Paris and Monaco, and it was plainly evident to me that while he was an egotistical rabble rouser with a penchant for obscene decadence and the occasional bold failure (read: Spoon), when it came to traditional and slightly modernized French cuisine, the man knew what he was doing. And while it could certainly be argued that he was simply trying to get a rise out of French traditionalists, he made a rather controversial statement that made me want to book a flight and go straight to Napa. I don't remember the exact wording, but the essence was this:

"The best French cuisine in the world is no longer being made in France. It is being made in Napa Valley by Thomas Keller of the French Laundry."

Of course, this statement set off the kind of editorial free-for-all that is mystifying to those who are neither French nor culinarians. But the point was made. Something very, very special was going on in Yountville, California. When my sweetheart and I went to Napa last summer to scout locations for our wedding, it was all I could do to stay away. But owing to my sweetheart's restrictive work schedule, we had to do a one and a half day surgical strike. It was either skip the French Laundry or skip one of our three potential wedding destnations. So we resolved instead to make the French Laundry our first fine dining stop as a married couple. We were married this past Saturday, and are now off to a fantastically delicious start.

The French Laundry is, as its name suggests, housed in an old stone laundry building in Yountville, about ten minutes north of Napa. It's an unassuming little place from the outside... beautiful, but nothing that would grab your attention were you not searching for it. The first thing to bring an enormous smile to my lips was the fact that there was a beautifully tended vegetable garden just across the street. In reading up on Keller, I'd learned that while his dishes are often exceptionally creative modern twists on French cuisine, when it comes to sourcing ingredients, he's decidedly old-school. In fact, standing in sharp defiance of the current slow death of the art, he recently decided to open a butcher shop near his restaurant. But that will be another story for another trip. Walking the length of the building led us into a serene, walled courtyard with a view of the kitchen, partially obstructed by trimmed hedges. The kitchen was, unsurprisingly, impressive to watch. It was one of the kitchens you only see at this level... a flowing display of skill, precision, grace and economy of motion. There was none of the madness of most establishments, with shouted orders and flying pots and pans. It was Thomas Keller's art, reproduced again and again with calm efficiency in a pristine, white environment. The Man wasn't present, but his minions worked tirelessly in his absence. The restaurant itself was rather subdued... dark wood, blue upholstered chairs... as clean and minimal as classic French decor can be. The food, however, was on the opposite end of the spectrum.

There were three tasting menus to choose from... the vegetarian, the nine course, and the seven course. While the full nine course was exceedingly tempting, there were a few items on the seven course that grabbed us, so we decided to go in that direction. And everything, from start to finish, was absolutely spectacular. Much like Jean-Georges (my hero and, thus far, my gold standard for fine dining), Keller creates bold, simple dishes that are still monumentally creative. It isn't the Bobby Flay school of cooking, where you take every flavor under the sun and figure out how to pack it into a dish. Rather, through perfect ingredient sourcing and spotless execution, he creates dishes that are simultaneously minimal and powerful. Each and every dish blows you away, and upon finishing it you wish that you had just a few more bites... until the next dish arrives and blows you away yet again.

The dishes we tasted were, in order:

Gougères
Sadly, I don't have photos of the amuse bouche. I wasn't quite feeling brave enough to break out the camera. But when a woman at the next table started brazenly walking circles around her table, snapping everybody's plate with flash and laser autofocus, I started to feel significantly less concerned about subtly taking a quick snap with my tiny, silent ultracompact. At any rate, our first amuse was simple, traditional gougères. Oddly enough, I'd never actually had them before. But these were little bite-sized crisp pastries, filled with a creamy, warm, melted gruyère. A simple, tasty opener.

Salmon Tartare
Here, things started to get interesting. The salmon tartare amuse was still a very traditional dish, but presented in a very playful and enjoyable manner. Tiny scoops of the tartare, about the size of a melon ball, were served atop tiny, narrow crispy tuille cones, which were filled with what I believe was crème fraîche. Delicious.


Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Water Chestnuts,
Pea Shoots and Black Truffle "Coulis"
This is where the supreme domination of awesomeness began. Sadly, this is the worst photo of the bunch. I can assure you that it was far more appetizing in person. While I adore sea urchin, I understand why it's intimidating to a lot of people. That said, if everybody could have it like this, I suspect there would be a multitude of converts. The urchin roe itself was fantastic, with a delicate and smooth quality. It embodied the sweetness of the sea without being overly briny. And the black truffle pairing was both completely unexpected and spectacular. A few tiny bits of minced water chestnut added some welcome crunch, and every once in a while a bit of coarse salt gave it some punch.


Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Poêlé", Belgian Endive "en Ravigote",
Royal Blenheim Apricot "Purée", Yountville Mustard Blossoms
and "Sauce à la Moutarde en Grains"
Well, Keller's use of quotes in his dish titles may be a little overdone, but his foie gras is not. Though it may appear burnt to a crisp in the photo, this was only on the outer edge. The inside was perfectly cooked, creamy and rich. Mustard and a fruit puree were, of course, fairly traditional, but I thought the use of the braised endive was very interesting. It was an unusually mellow foil for foie gras that I thought worked exceedingly well in concert with the other more aggressive flavors.


"Sautéed" Fillet of Japanese "Kanpachi",
Grilled Abalone Mushrooms, Glazed Baby Bok Choy,
Sweet Carrot-Scallion "Emincée" and Yuzu Emulsion
Here, Keller almost wandered into Jean-Georges territory, and not in unwelcome fashion. What with the hamachi jr., bok choy and yuzu, this was clearly the Asian-influenced dish. While I don't see Keller unseating Jean-Georges as the master of this particular marriage anytime soon, this was, nonetheless, a spectacular dish. Two things made it for me. The yuzu-butter emulsion was wonderful, to be sure, but that's no stroke of genius. First, the consistency of the fish was absolutely divine. The presentation side was very heavily seared, resulting in a crispy crust that was as delicious as it was texturally pleasing, but the underside was still perfectly moist and flaky and everything else that you expect from an expertly prepared piece of fish. The second item that grabbed me was the mushroom. As our server explained, it had been poached in milk and then grilled. The result was a mild and delicious mushroom steak of sorts, the flavor of which had been beautifully coaxed out by the light grilling. It was an understated work of art on its own, and was a perfect complement to the fish.


Pan-Roasted "Calotte" of Nature-Fed Veal,
Roasted Hearts of Romaine Lettuce, Slow Poached French Prune,
Applewood Smoked Bacon and "Sauce Colbert"
I am, admittedly, predisposed to enjoy any dish that utilizes bacon. But this really, truly was a wonderful use of our porcine friend. All of the other components, even when expertly assembled like this, wouldn't exactly seem inventive. And even in its complete form, it's no revolutionary dish. But taking a very traditional veal preparation and adding not just bacon but thick cut batons of excellent salty, smoky, porky bacon just elevated the dish to something special. It was not the most interesting dish of the night, but it may have been the most delicious.


"Persille de Beaujolais", Braised Celery Hearts,
"Espelette Vinaigrette" and Celery Seed "Melba"
This dish, however, was both delicious and fascinating. This was the one that cemented Keller's place in my mind as one of the true greats, to sit alongside my idol. It would have been so, so easy for Keller to simply offer a traditional cheese course, perhaps with a fun marmelade or two, and nobody would have thought any less of him. But instead, he took a delicious cheese that was absolutely delicious enough to stand on its own, and built a work of art around it. The cheese was a cow's milk bleu, pungent, dense and creamy with very few veins. Then he provided both hot and cool counterpoints. The celery hearts were soft, moist and comforting, while the vinaigrette was... much to my surprise... spicy. It had been spiked with a healthy dose of ground chile pepper. And the only thing more surprising than the approach was that it worked so well. The celery tamed the cheese's pungency on the front end while the vinaigrette's faint burn enhanced it on the back end. Beautifully calculated and expertly executed.


Jacobsen's Farm Meyer Lemon Sorbet, Yogurt "Mousse", Almond "Nougatine" and "Frascati" Biscuit
When you're dealing with an ingredient like the Meyer lemon, especially when it's in season, you don't have to do much to make it awesome other than condense the flavor. This sorbet was very straightforward, but carefully dressed, and it was a great follow-up to the cheese.


Field Rhubarb "Torte", Jamaican Gingerbread,
Tahitian Vanilla "Mascarpone" and Green Cardamom Syrup
I've always felt that a tendency to work with rhubarb is a good sign when getting to know a chef. There's something about the vegetal sweet and sour quality that lends rhubarb a captivating quality for those who care to look. This dish was a rhubarb bonanza, as it were. The crisp on top was rhuarb, the sorbet was rhubarb, the side walls of the torte were rhubarb, and the sauce was rhubarb. So with all of the sweet and sour going on, a little cream and spice was all it took to round out the dish. Awesome.



"Mignardises"
Since they weren't the most visually stunning of the night, I've shown only one of the many treats that were brought out to complete the meal. My sweetheart received the vanilla creme brulée (pictured), while I was given a cinnamon panna cotta in a small ceramic pot. Of course, we switched midway through and both were delicious. We were also given a few wafer thin tuille cookies, toasted macadamia nuts that had been baked into some kind of chocolate pastry shell, and a small bag of shortbread to take home with us.

For the past eight or so years, my mantra when it comes to fine dining has been this:

While we've had the opportunity to experience a multitude of wonderful restaurants, Jean-Georges in New York is operating on a plane of its own, head and shoulders above the rest. We've been to places like Charlie Trotter's, and felt that, while delicious, they didn't live up to the hype. We've been to places like Moto and felt that they overreached and got too cute for their own good. We've been to places like Tru and felt that while they occasionally achieve amazing heights, they don't have the incredible consistency from dish to dish. It has always seemed to me that Jean-Georges stands in a class of its own.

But in the end, I am beyond thrilled to report that Jean-George finally has some company in my mind. With the heavier Asian influence and a penchant for purer, bolder flavors, Jean-Georges simply pushes all of my culinary buttons, and as such the man isn't in any danger of being unseated as my hero. But based on last night's meal, I could not for a moment say that he is a more capable, interesting or accomplished chef than Keller. In many ways, I think they're very similar. They both seem to have an obsession with detail that governs their creations. Keller would call it finesse, for which he has posted the dictionary definition in huge letters over the doorway of his kitchen. They both try to avoid palate fatigue by shocking your tastebuds with bold, simple flavors and then giving you just enough to leave them wanting. And they are both masters of consistency, turning out spectacular dish after spectacular dish without the slightest lull, lest they leave you with the impression that they might just be mortal.

They most certainly are not.

Sensational post and descriptions of this culinary treasure. I had the great fortune of being treated to the French Laundry a number of years ago and, to this day, I always consider it a standout experience as you so beautifully state. I remember thinking how Keller's amazing attention to detail and extreme thoughtfulness in regard to combinations of ingredients separated him from virtually everybody else. Where often times, I feel as though high end chefs are using their subjects as guinea pigs, Keller’s dishes are consistently harmonious and truly work.

Thanks.

Oh man - thanks for the incredible review.
I'm saving my pennies now.
By the way, how many pennies will I need to save?

I admired your post so much I fixed the bolding and italics tags for you. (This site uses the brackets, [ and ], not the pointy things < and >.) Really gorgeous pictures. That veal dish is fantastic looking.

Hey, Johnny...

For the night we were there (I don't know if it varies at all), all three menus were $210, which included an 18% gratuity. Although, for the foie gras courses, you had the choice of foie gras or another dish, and there was a $30 supplement to go with the foie gras, so this particular menu as we had it was actually $240. This only reinforced my notion that Jean-Georges, at $130 or so (memory may be failing me) is a relative bargain... with the emphasis on relative

Thanks, Mike!

I'm still getting used to the tagging. I should read up some more before I continue posting. Can we do image links? I'm a fan of posting 300x225 photos and letting people click through to the larger ones... it's easier on the folks with slow connections. As for the photos, I just got a camera specifically for the purpose of subtle food photography, and it's working great. I should probably start a thread on the subject, as I'm sure a lot of people have great info to share. I used the Fuji Finepix F11, which is small enough to palm, has a very good macro focus and takes incredibly good low-light photos, even at ISO 1600... so it's pretty much perfect for stealth photography at fine restaurants. All of these images needed a lot of Photoshop sweetening, especially when it came to color balance, but because the noise levels are so low with this camera you can do a lot of tweaking without pushing it too far. There's an updated version called the F30 slated to be released in June, I believe, that will supposedly give you clean images up to ISO 3200. Fuji pretty much owns low-light at the non-professional level, it seems.

Yessir you can.

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bbcode is basically just html with [ instead of <. There are a few changes, like the img syntax above. Here's the bbcode guide.

Thanks, Gleam!

I have a few more questions, but I'm going to relocate before I totally derail the thread.

Dmnkly,

I first read your report shortly after you had posted it and enjoyed it thoroughly. Sufficiently so that I just had the urge to go back and reread it, as well as re-examine the great photos. Many thanks.

Antonius

Great post...excellent descriptions of everything!

One of the extraordinary treats at the French Laundry (and Per Se) is the cheese made by Soyoung Scanlan, who is perhaps the most talented cheesemaker in the US. She is a solo operation, and for years has been selling certain cheeses she makes (not pictured on her website) exclusively to the French Laundry. One of them is not produced during winter months, so I suspect there was none on the menu this time.

Her website describes her cheeses, which she markets only within the SF bay area. She will no longer sell outside of California (except to Per Se), which is unfortunate for us in Chicago. She does sell on Saturdays at Ferry Plaza. I've worked her booth for her on a couple occasions, and she routinely sells out before the end of the market. She has also developed a cult following. Hal McGee dedicated the updated edition of On Food and Cooking to her, and her fans sometimes deliver flowers to her on market days. If there is a cheesemaking rockstar, Soyoung is it.

quick Q: does anyone if the "weekend" lunches utilize the exact same menu? (i could just CALL the restaurant, but that'd mean i'd have to talk to real people... )

French Laundry Recap -- September 24, 2009
It was with enthusiasm that I accepted the invitation . . . (just kidding).

I had the good luck to dine at French Laundry recently.

MY IMPRESSIONS: I feel like I need to begin by saying that although I’m not a regular high-end diner, I’ve been fortunate enough to dine at Tru, Alinea and Charlie Trotter’s over the past 7 years or so. Therefore, it was inevitable (for me) to mentally compare my French Laundry dining experience with those prior ones. On its face, Alinea seems like it would be the most distinct and different from French Laundry, but really, in some ways, it was the most similar. Dining here after Alinea seemed like a backwards progression to revisit Grant Achatz’s roots. I’m not sure how much he admits to his French Laundry training as a major influence, but at least for me, that was the most apt comparison. (As for Tru, which I enjoyed the least, I felt like its forced formality and attempt to fuse divergent flavors didn’t always work, and Charlie Trotter’s, which I liked better than Tru only because the food tasted better, but again, Charlie’s perfectionist personality and the restaurant’s formality resulted in perfectly executed but soulless dishes that only tampered my excitement.)

Anyhow, it occurred to me that, if you remove Alinea’s modern flourishes and experimentation, at base, its food is similar to French Laundry. If anything, that underscores to me how good Alinea is and perhaps is the reason why Achatz's food actually tastes good and is not its own victim of experimentation. Relatedly, there is more than a little bit of interest at French Laundry in Achatz as apprentice, as more than one server approached us and asked us with enthusiasm, “I hear you’re from Chicago. Have you eaten at Alinea? How was it?” Some were even knowledgeable about certain Achatz signature dishes, as the one-potato, two-potato.

That’s about all the philosophizing I’ll do about my French Laundry dinner, except to observe how it stayed within the bounds of classic French food and without seeming dated, boring or routine (as I sometimes hear about Everest). Also, the integration of local California or otherwise American ingredients seemed natural and was done seamlessly, and didn’t all undermine the very French theme of the cooking. The dinner progressed bit by bit, each dish subtly and gradually building on the last, such that your palate is soothed, massaged and sated, but never shocked or overwhelmed. In this regard, French Laundry departs from Alinea (or Alinea departs from French Laundry) as sometimes, during my meal at Alinea, each course differed so much that, by the end, I was ready to call “uncle;“ I couldn’t take any more.

WINE: If you can order the wine pairings at French Laundry, I encourage you to do so. In my opinion, it’s always good to put yourself at the mercy of a talented sommelier, if only because you don’t have to agonize over pairing one or two bottles of wine to go with 9+ courses. But also, pairings allow you to dip deeper into the restaurant’s wine cellar than you necessarily would if you ordered off the wine menu.

ATMOSPHERE: From the outside, French Laundry is easy to miss. A very unassuming but charming brick building, you walk along the long side of it into a courtyard to the front door, which is also easy to miss. If you can have a glass of sparkling wine and linger in the courtyard before your meal, as we did, you should -- you can Peeping Tom into the windows of the kitchen (as I did), which peer out onto the courtyard. As with these types of restaurants, the chefs in the kitchen are not screaming at each other, pans clanging. They are quiet, seamless, graceful and focused in their tasks. As for the restaurant, the upstairs-downstairs format and décor remind of Trotter’s, but it is way less formal. Although people are dressed nicely, a cocktail dress would be too formal, and most men wore sport coats, no tie. There is no hushed din to the room, the tables are conversing and laughing openly; in fact, it’s kind of loud in there.


The only sign that you’re at The French Laundry


Entrance


Kitchen adjacent to courtyard outside entrance




Kitchen at work


They’re actually laughing while they work!

SERVICE: Service is polished, but informal, California-casual. They don’t hover, but they don’t act as if they’re not there either. They’re not afraid to interact with you, ask if you liked certain dishes, and get feedback.

First Amuse: Cave Aged Gruyère Gougères

I forgot to take a picture of this, but the buttery gougère + strong gruyère awoke your palate immediately, as it should.

Second Amuse: Salmon Roe and Beet “Caviar” cones with crème fraîche.



This amuse built off the last - the strong earthy beet and mildly fishy roe + tangy crème fraîche primed your palate some more and readied you for the first course.

First Course:

Diner 1 had “Oysters and Pearls” -- “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar



Surprisingly, this was a warm dish. It was a fun duet of sorts between the tapioca balls and the caviar balls. One bite resulted in a burst of sweetness (surprise!), another bite in a burst of salty fishiness (surprise again!). A great start to the coursed meal portion.

Diner 2 had an off-menu truffle custard with chive-potato chip:



The flavors of this, believe it or not, reminded me of Alinea’s one-potato, two-potato, almost to a T! However, this decadent version highlighted the French skill with eggs, the custard was creamy and ethereally light with a black truffle emulsion over it; it was served in a hollowed out eggshell. I could have downed 6 of these, being the truffle and custard fanatic I am. Another great start to the coursed meal portion.

Pairing: Pierre Gimonnet, Premier Cru, “Cuis” Champagne, 2005

Bread Service: Pain Levain from Bouchon Bakery (down the street), unsalted goat butter from California, Vermont butter salted in-house



Second Course:

Diner 1 had Moulard Duck “Foie Gras” Au Torchon (cold preparation), Honey Wine Gelée, Marcona Almonds, Frisée and Golden Delicious Apples ($30.00 supplement)



This was a favorite dish of the evening. The duck foie gras was light but rich. It was served with three different types of salt to accompany the foie gras, including a grey sea salt, a pink salt from a Montana copper mine and a smoked sea salt, each salt interacting with and enhancing each taste differently:



Pairing: Huet “La Mont” Vouvray, 2005

Diner 2 had Salad of Roasted Hearts of Palm, Navel Orange, Red Radish, Mizuna and Ginger Crème Fraîche.



Obviously, the kitchen is not showing off its cooking chops with a salad, but rather, executing a beautiful study in flavors and texture of a classic composed salad: peppery radish, citrus orange and gingery, tangy crème Fraîche played off the star, the roasted heart of palm.

Pairing: La Cana Albariño, Rias Biaxas, 2008

Third Course:

Diner 1 had a Sashimi of Island Creek Scallop, Belgian Endive, Pomegranate, Pine Nuts, Red Ribbon Sorrel and Truffle Vinaigrette



This was pronounced as the best scallop preparation ever. This is an example of where the kitchen infuses modern sensibilities by serving a “sashimi-style” scallop but stays South of France with such Mediterranean-style flavors inherent in the pomegranate, sorrel and pine nuts. The scallop had a nice clean astrigent taste that was complemented by the earthiness of the truffles and the nuttiness of the pine nuts.

Pairing: Lopez de Heredia, “Vina Gravonia” Rioja, 1999 (We were excited about this wine -- an aged Rioja white! It was soft, smooth and lush.)

Diner 2 had “Beets and Leeks:” Maine Lobster Tail “Pochée au Beurre Doux” with King Richard Leeks, “Pommes Maxim’s” and Red Beet Essence



This was the most daring combination of flavors all night. (In fact, I tweeted this dish during the dinner and someone commented back something to the tune of “lobster and beets? Blech.”) At first, this didn’t work for me only because the leeks (which were akin to a gremalata) were so oniony and overwhelmed everything. I soon figured out that, in order to make this work, you needed a piece of the potato chip, a piece of lobster, and a smidgen of leeks dipped in the beet essence, and pow! There it was. The sweetness of the beet essence (any earthiness was downplayed in the preparation) highlighted the sweetness in the lobster, the potato adding a slight earthiness and saltiness and the leek rounding it all out. A deconstructed version of a heavier French dish. One complaint was that the lobster was tough - I don’t know if this is a seasonal issue as Maine lobster tail I recently had at a dinner at Perennial was similarly tough.

Pairing: Ramey “Hyde” Chardonnay, Carneros 2006 (The predictable Chardonnay to pair with a butter-poached lobster. I appreciated, though, that the sommelier sourced locally from Napa, although that would be the natural choice with Chardonnay. An excellent example of Chardonnay.)

Fourth Course:

Diner 1 had “Beets and Leeks.”

Pairing: Ramey “Hyde” Chardonnay, Carneros 2006

Diner 2 had Salmon Creek Farms Pork Belly., Fennel Bulb, Jacobsen’s Farm Figs, Watercress and Aged Balsamic Vinegar

Funny - I had a somewhat similar dish recently at Boka and although I loved it, though the one thing that brought it down was an overly acidic balsamic vinegar. This was that dish, perfected. Nothing earth-shattering, but a study in how well certain flavors go together such as pork + fennel and pork + fruit (figs) and pork + sweetness (aged balsamic), and the spicy watercress to balance all that sweetness out. It also interplayed the distinct flavors and feel of hot and cold foods in one dish - the cold fennel (which I think was poached, then cooled), raw, textural figs and room-temperature, syrupy balsamic versus the hot pork belly. But it is evident how the prominent sweetness of this dish amplified the more mellow sweetness of the prior lobster dish.



Pairing: Mascarello, “Monprivato” Barolo 2003

Fifth Course:

Marcho Farms “Ris de Veau,” Mustard Bread Pudding, Peach , Little Gem Lettuce and Dijon Mustard



Pairing: Neyers “Cuvée D’Honeaur” Syrah, Napa Valley, 2005

This was the only course where the pairing was off. The Neyers is a “full grape” fermented wine (meaning, stems and all), and consequently, had a lot of structure and tannins. The tender sweetbread was quite sweet, and glazed in an almost Chinese food way, and the mustard piquancy was really subdued, so the wine didn’t work. But both the wine and the dish on their own were quite good. Just a misstep, and the only one the whole dinner.

Sixth Course:

Snake River Farms “Calotte de Bœuf Grillée,” Sunchokes, Sweet Carrots, Sugar Snap Peas and Paloise Mousseline

This was the one dish in which we were given somewhat of a “spiel” about the purveyor, which was that the beef was sourced the first and finest “Wagyu/Angus” beef producer in the United States. Needless to say, this was an incredible piece of beef, and the preparation felt decadent, but not overwhelming in a Ruth Chris way where the beef is doused with butter, then served with potatoes and creamed spinach and buttered rolls. The beef was the star and treated simply.



Pairing: Chateau Simard, St. Emilion 1998. WOW! This Bordeaux was incredible and felt really special. Gentle, graceful and complex, this wine did not smell -- let alone -- taste, like any wine I’ve had before. Mucho terroir.



Seventh Course:

“Berthaut Epoisses,” Swiss Chard, “Vol-au-Vent,” Chanterelle Mushrooms, Sour Cherries and Port Wine Reduction

A bit of tableside prep here. The oozy epoisses, luscious, creamy and stinky, was spooned into quenelles onto the awaiting vol-au-vent. The result was not so much a typical cheese course with cheese and fruit or jellies and nuts to transition you into dessert. Rather, by including savory (mushrooms and cheese) and sweet (the swiss chard, buttery vol-au-vent) and tart sweet (sour cherries), the transition was smoother and less predictable than a boring cheese course. In all, it was a gentle bridge from the mineral- and salt-iness of the beef in the prior course to the sweetness of dessert.






Finished “Epoisses Berthaut”

Pairing: Dubruil-Fontain, Savigny-Les-Beaune, 2005



Eighth Course:

Moon Glow Pear Sorbet with Chai Tea Sablé and Roasted Jacobsen’s Farm Pears



This was the palate cleanser. Its assertive floral tones and fresh icy consistency discharged that duty admirably.

Ninth Course:

“Gâteau Saint Nizier au Manjari,” Mango-Chili Relish, Mast Brothers Cocoa Nibs, Lime Foam and Coconut Milk Sorbet



Pairing: Királyudvar “Cuvée Ilona” Tokaji 2002



This dessert tasted more routine than it read on paper. It was still good but not mind-blowing.

Much more successful was the Lemon Verbena “Vacherin,” Tellicherry Pepper, “Panna Cotta,” Lemon Verbena Sorbet and Chilled Silverado Trail Strawberry Consommé.



Pairing: [Same as above]

The meringue was crunchy outside, spongy inside and did not shy away from showcasing the somewhat spicy, aromatic and herby lemon verbena. The sweetened acidic strawberry sauce rounded everything off. I love fruity desserts, so I could have eaten three of these.

Mignardises:


Some hazelnut chocolate thingeys

A bunch of treats that came in a jewel box with hinges:









And chocolates:







A fitting end to the meal. By serving us playful mignardises (the red-wrappered caramel seemed like a fancy Milk Maid), it was as if French Laundry was making sure we'd go home in a happy, light and uncontemplative mood. Needless to say, everything was delicious, and if those chocolates were sold by the box, I'd pay a good amount for them; they were that good.

I went back the next day to take some daytime pictures:




French Laundry corridor/approach to restaurant


Courtyard adjacent to entrance

Great report and pictures. "Oysters and Pearls" is probably one of my favorite dishes from any restaurant anywhere. Just such a wonderful combination of flavors and textures.

Called French Laundry to make a reservation this morning (Mum's birthday is next month) but they're booked all the way till Late November!! I didn't realize how popular this restaurant was, the food must be out of this world.

They accept reservations 2 months in advance, to the date. If you don't get in on that day, you can pretty much kiss your chances goodbye.

That being said, if you make lodging reservations at (for example) the Yountville Inn, they can sometimes get you a table.

alwayshungry wrote:Called French Laundry to make a reservation this morning (Mum's birthday is next month) but they're booked all the way till Late November!! I didn't realize how popular this restaurant was, the food must be out of this world.

French Laundry is considered by many to be the best restaurant in the United States.

I ate their a few years ago and my friend made the reservation on Open Table at exactly a second past midnight, two months ahead of our visit. Not sure if this trick still works, but it is worth a try. (This was a little easier for him than it would be for me because he lived in California. In Chicago, I'd have to wait until 2am local time.)

Our meal was wonderful, with one exception: the wine service. I generally agree with Aschie's idea to go with wine pairings. But there were four of us dining together, so we could easily order a selection of bottles and try a few things that were a little more expensive than what would be on the wine pairing menu. One of the wines that the sommelier recommended was 2001 Remírez de Ganuza, a Rioja. I now consider this bottle to be one of the best I've ever had. But it was not very good that night at French Laundry. The wine was harsh and not enjoyable. I happen to see this wine at a store not long after my visit to French Laundry. The store owner said that it is a great wine, but it has to breathe for at least three hours before drinking. Well, I tried it and, lo and behold, it was one of the best bottles I've ever had. We were disappointed with the wine at French Laundry (if the sommelier had asked how we liked the wine, we would have told him. But he didn't ask and we didn't feel compelled to seek him out). I was even more disappointed to find out that the wine really was very good, but wasn't an appropriate wine to serve at this meal.

Thanks for calling. I could've driven over and sat on the end of your table!

RevrendAndy wrote:Thanks for calling. I could've driven over and sat on the end of your table!

The next time I'll be eating at FL, I'll give you 3 hours notice to get over there, OK?

Puppy wrote:They accept reservations 2 months in advance, to the date. If you don't get in on that day, you can pretty much kiss your chances goodbye.

That being said, if you make lodging reservations at (for example) the Yountville Inn, they can sometimes get you a table.

I'm on the waitlist for Oct. 16....not holding my breath. But I'm going to try to ask the hotel...hadn't thought of that! Thanks for the tip!

When we got in (at the top of the thread) it was through the concierge at our hotel. Of course, this was the same hotel that was hosting our wedding reception, so I imagine they were especially inclined to call in any favors they might have had. I have no idea if it's usually that easy for them.

Dmnkly wrote:When we got in (at the top of the thread) it was through the concierge at our hotel. Of course, this was the same hotel that was hosting our wedding reception, so I imagine they were especially inclined to call in any favors they might have had. I have no idea if it's usually that easy for them.

Thanks for the added data point Dom. I'm definitely making a call to the concierge.

Nice article in the Times about Thomas Keller, his father, latest cookbook, etc:
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/28/dining/28keller.html

I would happily go. Given the chance. But for now, I had to enjoy it vicariously through a neighbor who had the good fortune to have a business lunch there. Cost him not a dime. (Lunch, fwiw, is $240, service included). For the others who, like us, are curious, herewith his lunch options: the chef's tasting and the vegetarian.

OK - I have never been to the French Laundry, but DID cook a seven course meal out of the cook book. I have pics so I figure I might as well post here since I am lurking..

First Course - Salad of Petite Summer Tomatoes and Vine-Ripe Tomato Granita


Home grown Cherry tomatoes dressed with Sonoma, CA Olive Oil and sea salt on Challah crouton. Black Prince Tomatoe Coulis with Basil Oil. Served with a yellow taxi tomato and chili granita.

Second Course - Carpaccio of Tuna 'Nicoise'

Big Eye Tuna served raw and pounded thin. Oven roasted egg with paprika. Served with an Olive tapenade, crouton and simple herb salad of tarragon, marjoram, chives, mint, parsley, thyme, red pepper, yellow pepper, fennel and sunflower sprouts.

Third Course - Heirloom Tomato Tart with Nicoise Olive Tapenade, Baby Greens, and Basil Vinaigrette

Sungold tomatoes were served two ways, roasted and marinated, on a fresh pastry topped with an olive tapenade, baby butter lettuce and a basil vinagrette.

Fourth Course - Spotted Skate Wing with Braised Red Cabbage and Mustard Sauce

Spotted Skate wing sauteed and served with a wine braised red cabbage and mustard beurre blanc with chives.

Fifth Course - Rib Lamb Chops with 'Cassoulet' of Summer Beans and Rosemary

Lamb Rack from Mint Creek Farms in Illinois roasted medium rare. Cassoulet includes fresh cranberry, wax, green and soy beans. Sauce is a demi glace d' agneau.

Sixth Course - Ashed Chevre with Slow-Roasted Yellow and Red Beets and Red Beet Vinaigrette

Ashed chevre atop roasted yellow and red beets. Brasied Beet greens and a beet glaze garnish.

Seventh Course - Cream of Blueberry Soup with Goat Milk Ice cream

Blueberry soup was created by mixing a tellicherry pepper syrup (made of black berries, plums, vanilla, wine and tellicherry pepper corns simmered for 2 hours) with stewed blueberries and a vanilla creme angalaise. The soup surrounds a scoop of goat milk ice cream with a dacquoise (meringue cookie with almonds) as a garnish

I'm impressed, and not just because that food looks good enough to frame. A few years back a friend and I attended a dinner party that required each guest to cook a recipe out of the French Laundry cookbook. My friend and I both like to cook, so we made two dishes, and just those took us the better part of a day at the store and in the kitchen. I can only imagine the time and attention your feast required. Well done!

Luckyguy wrote:I'm impressed, and not just because that food looks good enough to frame.

I'm impressed as well, Jessewolfe1's meal looks terrific and I can only imagine the amount of work it took to produce.

A friend and I partnered on the endeavor and served a party of four (my wife, his girlfriend) We started shopping at the Green City Market, Spice House and Dirks at 7AM and started cooking at about 10AM. Dinner was served at midnight..

Jessewolfe1- a very impressive feat!
did you eat as you cooked, or wait until the end and eat all at once?
Beautiful, beautiful food, and beautiful pictures, too!

We served all seven courses in succession - which was a feat of time management and planning in and of itself

Jessewolfe1 wrote:Dinner was served at midnight..

When was dinner completed?

I would say two or three? We had paired grand cru champagne and burgundy throughout the dinner and after that long day I 'enjoyed' the wine so by the time we were at desert I wasnt fully aware of the time.