In good company last night, we visited Big Jones. Since it’s walking distance for the Lovely Dining Companion and me, we’ve been a number of times; it was new to the others. What follows is my quick take on our evening.
We opened with three house cocktails: Ma Louisiane (Kopper Kettle Virginia Whiskey, Benedictine, Sweet Vermouth, Peychaud Bitters), an Agave Julep (Zapopan Reposado Tequila, Agave Nectar, Mint, Club Soda, Crushed Ice), and The Death of St. Germaine (Death's Door Gin, St.-Germain, Curacao, Lemon). I found the first to be assertive (as was observed at the table, a little Benedictine goes a long way), the second to be a bit too sweet but amazingly smooth, and the third to be quite attractive...flowery even. A very nice round of openers.
To give us something to start, the kitchen sent a tray of good-sized cornbread cakes. The LDC was not a fan but I was: I found them moist, flavorful, and a nicely considered appetite-whetter (or would that be
vorspeis?) This seemed to be in the nature of an amuse (though we’ve received an amuse before, it seems to change regularly—which won’t engender any complaints from this quarter).
We ordered five appetizers:
Crab cakes: LDC agreed with me that, although quite crab-by and delicious, the cakes seemed to be a new recipe. These are made from lump blue crab and were served with a sweet corn relish. The old ones were unequivocally excellent; these were “merely” very, very good. Hard to say that very, very good is a step down but I wish they had kept the old recipe. Whatever the change, it’s not major but we both, independently, had the same impression. The remoulade was excellent; quite spicy and a very nice accompaniment and that we really enjoyed.
Frogs’ legs with creole meuniere and mushrooms: I’ve never had frogs’ legs before and so have nothing to compare them to. I found, that to me at least, they taste like everyone always jokes—chicken. Nicely breaded and presented. Didn’t blow me away but I didn’t find anything about them to incline me to try them again.
Vegetable terrine: a revelation. This is something I would never object to but would not likely choose on my own. Every component of this dish (sweet potato chips, I think, a bean puree, and a chunky pepper relish?) added to the experience. If there was a surprise hit at the table, this was it. Perfectly conceived, executed, and presented. Highly recommended and we’ll get it again.
Cheddar-herb croquettes. Served with green goddess sauce/dressing, fried sage, and frisee. Not especially to my taste. Nothing objectionable but nothing exciting either. I may well be in the minority in my reaction to these; I know LDC and some of the others quite enjoyed them. They just seemed like hush puppies with a Ph.D. to me.
House-made head cheese: as our server noted, this was more like a (Gunthorp Farms) pork terrine than an authentic head cheese but who cares? It was very good, though I found it just a trifle less...flavorful...than I expected. A generous serving with toasts, Creole mustard, and piccalilli. Highly enjoyable. (And this is a place that, for once, serves enough toasts. Why do some places offer a reasonable serving of pate and then give you two or three tiny toast points?)
The house generously sent out an order of fried green tomatoes as well. I’ve never been particularly impressed with these in the past and, sorry to say, last night was no exception. The recipe seems to have changed a bit: the breading is different (or seemed so) but the dish came through as too bland. I don’t know if it’s the tomatoes themselves or the rest of the plating, but it was uninteresting; a disappointment to me as a fan of the dish.
This is probably the moment to say that we had a very early reservation: 5:30. There was a table of six that arrived about the same time. Only a few diners came in during the first 30-60 minutes we were there. And so we were unable to understand why everything took so long. The apps were quite a while in coming and the entrees seemed to take forever. In fairness, when Chef visited, he explained that they were experimenting with turducken for the holiday and it was about to come out of the oven. Fine. But given the almost empty house, what took so long? A couple people commented; an explanation would have been welcome. It was nothing terrible but it was noticeable.
Perhaps as a recognition of this (perhaps not), during our wait for our entrees to arrive we received a gift from the kitchen and boy, do I mean gift: perfectly cooked venison with a blueberry reduction. There were other elements but, I’m very sorry to say, I didn’t take notes and should have. I hope Chef will chime in and tell us more about the dish. It was really exceptional. The blueberries complemented the venison perfectly and even LDC, who is not even remotely a fan of venison, cleaned her plate. For those who prefer their venison gamy, this is not the dish. It was pretty much devoid of gaminess. But that meat was luscious and the dish just beautifully conceived.
Entrees: we only had one overlap and shared so that everyone got a taste of everything.
Shrimp and grits: finely ground grits cooked to a very smooth and creamy texture. Shrimp that seemed unevenly cooked: some perfect, some not quite cooked, some overcooked and mushy. A shame because the shrimp were quite tasty (Laughing Bird Caribbean white shrimp the menu tells me). A tasso sauce with chunks of sausage in it: unqualifiedly top-notch. Curiously, although it made for an eye-catching presentation, I didn’t understand the cherry tomatoes. They were beautiful, sweet, and delicious. But they didn’t add anything to the dish and I was confused by their presence.
Fried chicken: wow! Crispy, juicy, meaty, and excellent. And a large portion to boot. Served with excellent mashed potatoes (I’d love to know what was in them.) It’s a Tuesday special and was good enough to make me seriously consider eating out on Tuesday nights more often.
Reezy peezy: a dish with heritage red peas and Carolina gold rice. The red peas were revelation. These little buggers looked like a cross between peas and red beans. They had an astonishing smoky flavor (a characteristic of the peas, not added) and they went quite well with the rice. I’ve never heard of the dish but it’s very easy to see this as the old classic it apparently is (the menu notes that the recipe is circa 1730!). Served with house-pickled veggies (this is a good place to note that their pickles—which appear in a variety of dishes—are excellent), greens, and a rice cake. The greens were vinegary and one bite was all I could manage. Way off. The rice cake, on the other hand, was a wonderfully unexpected pleasure and complement.
Quail: sarsaparilla-lacquered with stuffing, sage-baked apples, and squash. I had a small taste but found it very enjoyable. I suspect the sarsaparilla gloss may have been too sweet for some, but I enjoyed it and would happily order this myself.
This is probably a good place to single out our server, David. He did a great job: timely, observant, warm, and best of all, knowledgeable. He never pushed, simply offered his recommendations, and fielded every question with a helpful, well-informed answer.
Lest you think we had enough by this point, I hasten to correct you: the house offered slices of the turducken. We were all quite curious and eager to taste it but our stomachs were in no condition to appreciate the generous servings offered, complete with stuffing. I will say only that the three meats were cooked pretty much as well as one could expect given their different requirements. Chef explained his procedure when he visited the table earlier in the evening and the presentation was really impressive.
Needless to say, no desserts.
As we walked home, LDC and I agreed that (besides the fact that we ate way, way, way too much food) there were both hits and misses. We found several of the dishes unqualifiedly excellent (such as the vegetable terrine and the fried chicken) and some unexpectedly uninteresting (such as the croquettes and the fried green tomatoes). That said, we have always enjoyed our visits—the staff is always welcoming and we’ve always had very good servers. Having been enough times, we know pretty well what to choose and what to avoid and are happy to have it as a part of our rotation.
We consider ourselves exceptionally fortunate to live in walking distance of multiple GNRs and a number of other excellent places and, I think, in the end, the level of competition in this area ensures that any place that takes its food as seriously as Big Jones will always be on their toes. Best of all, Chef visited the table a couple times and stayed for a long enough visit to see first-hand his passion for what he does and his genuine interest in having us enjoy his food. It was a pleasure to see that.
(My pictures unexpectedly bombed; I am hoping for illustration from a companion....)
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)