mexican everyday, and my guess is that frontera has signed copies available at the restaurant, but you could call and ask.

By the way, I'd be in favor of having existing Xoco, Frontera, and Topolobampo threads merged into one. Anyone else, for or against?

Santander wrote:

Bill wrote:Writer Christoper Borrelli penned an well-written, insightful and lenghthy feature article for yesterday's Sunday Chicago Tribune about Bayless, Xoco and the Frontera empire. The article adds some background to what's been happening with Xoco (and maybe why). Click on the link that follows to read the Borelli feature: http://tinyurl.com/yjcnt4o

To save most LTHers a lot of time, this article is petulant (author didn't get full access he expected), retributive (author projects frustration onto totally normal professional kitchen processes), invasive (broadcasing irrelevant Bayless family details), inaccurate (cookbooks and PBS hosting predated Frontera), misleading (Xoco continues to serve snacks and tortas after caldos come online), laggy (Xoco website definitively states takeout is coming soon), and poorly constructed.

It's also riveting, picaresque, and replete with schadenfreude. Ah, journalism. Seriously, people, don't make me Photoshop a closeup of Rick with a single citrus-scented tear rolling down his sallow vertical cheek.

funny, I was sure from Bill's description that the article would be gushing with Bayless praise

Katie wrote:By the way, I'd be in favor of having existing Xoco, Frontera, and Topolobampo threads merged into one. Anyone else, for or against?

Merged into one per restaurant? That'd be my inclination, if a merge was going to happen. I think putting commentary on Xoco alongside Topolo doesn't make much sense.

I had no idea before reading that article that Skip Bayless was Rick's brother.

Matt wrote:I had no idea before reading that article that Skip Bayless was Rick's brother.

Me neither. I was really disappointed to read that. I am a huge fan of Rick Bayless. Skip...not so much.

Darren72 wrote:

Matt wrote:I had no idea before reading that article that Skip Bayless was Rick's brother.

Me neither. I was really disappointed to read that. I am a huge fan of Rick Bayless. Skip...not so much.

It's the biggest shocker in sibling malfeasance and guilt by association since we found out the beloved weatherman was related to the Enron guy.

Matt wrote:It's the biggest shocker in sibling malfeasance and guilt by association since we found out the beloved weatherman was related to the Enron guy.

Excellent!

I'm not sure which brother I find more annoying. It's pretty much a toss up, although I suppose I've got to hand the acceptability award to Rick, since he can at least cook a good meal (if only he kept his mouth shut).

Finally made it to Xoco for lunch today. I work only a scant three blocks away. I arrived at 11:50. The line was not out-the-door, but approximately 15 people long. I waited about 15 minutes in line before placing my order. The gal who was working the door was pretty impressive. She immediately asked about party-size and told you about how long it would be before you could be seated. In my case, she estimated 15 minutes.

About 15 minutes later, the front door gal handed me a numbered card and told me that I had a seat ready. This happened just as it was my turn to place my order. Timing and organization couldn't have been better.

I ordered the cochinita pibil and an Aztec chocolate. The cashier warned me that the habanero salsa that came with my torta was very hot. I sat down, got my chocolate about 2 minutes later and got my torta delivered to me about 10 minutes later.

Contrary to some on this thread, I did not think that my cochinita pibil portion was skimpy. It was a good size and stuffed with pork and pickled onions. The pork was tender and juicy, the onions piquant and the bread had just the right softness/crust to soak up the pork juice and the habanero salsa. As promised, the habanero salsa was quite hot, but enjoyably so IMHO. My Aztec chocolate was delicious and rich-perfect for the colder weather.

My total was about $16. While this is expensive for a lunch option, I did not feel that I was overpaying for my lunch or being overcharged. The ingredients used at this place are high quality and often local (many familiar GCM purveyors). Such ingredients aren't cheap, but are surely worth the increased price.

I will be back again to try the short-rib torta.

Went here for lunch last week. I had the Woodland Mushroom Torta, which was satisfying, but the goat cheese really stole the show, so much so I didn't get a lot of flavor from the other ingredients. Had a bite of the Cochinita Pibil with the salsa, this was very tasty and if I were to come again I'd get this (along with the pork belly soup). The chocoflan was satisfying for someone like me who can't resist very sweet desserts. As many have mentioned, this was a very expensive lunch, so it's definitely not something I'll be doing again for quite a while.

Bayless has responded to the recent Chicago Tribune feature about him, Xoco and the Frontera businesses in this message to his groupies:

"a little befuddled by Tribune profile of me? Read Dave Cathey's (Daily Oklahoman's food editor) thotful response http://tinyurl.com/herorick
9:28 PM Oct 12th from Twittelator"

The link takes you to a (pre Xoco) August 2009 blog commentary about Rick and his accomplishments.

I was really entertained, too, that the "response" predated the Tribune article by several months. I also liked that the shortened URL was "hero rick"

To the people that found the Trib article to be negative, what in particular did you feel was unfair?

jtobin625 wrote:To the people that found the Trib article to be negative, what in particular did you feel was unfair?

Santander wrote:this article is petulant (author didn't get full access he expected), retributive (author projects frustration onto totally normal professional kitchen processes), invasive (broadcasing irrelevant Bayless family details), inaccurate (cookbooks and PBS hosting predated Frontera), misleading (Xoco continues to serve snacks and tortas after caldos come online), laggy (Xoco website definitively states takeout is coming soon), and poorly constructed.

Rick, I love you. Did you see how I stood up for you on LTHForum.com? To hell with those reporters. Have me over in the kitchen for the day. I'll replace your bitter tears of familial resentment with tears of joy with my impressions of you. We'll eat tortas and sopes together. I'll tell you which boys aren't good enough for Lanie. I'm not in the least creepy. I'm your number one groupie.

I also did not know Skip Bayless was his brother . . . interesting.

Having now read the article, I didn't find that it portrayed Rick negatively at all. It painted him as an honest, thoughtful and hard-working guy who probably has his hands full right now with all of his business ventures. Is that so bad?

And I also did not interpret the author's description of the kitchen processes to be negative - seemed more matter-of-fact to me. I also believe the author conveyed the clear message that Rick is very well respected among his peers.

<sigh> How long have I been trying to warm the hearts across the Great Plains with oooo-stick to your ribs cocina mexicana? Didn't I study, travel, love, and make people smile? I've built a family and a roof garden from papalo, queso fresco, and dreams, mixed together in that great molcajete of gray Chicago stone. Is it worth anything? Why doesn't mom love me?




<kicks feet up on couch made of endangered lynx skin> Great Sooners game, huh, mom? Glad they burned Chicago on that Olympic bid. Wonder if that was something Lil' Ricky cared about. Sure, I'd love to come over for casserole and jello. Y'all save some hugs for me! Praise the Lord.

Santander wrote: I'm your number one groupie.

Santander, we both know that I'm Bayless fan numero uno!

Went there for lunch today and after 40 minutes of waiting in the line outside, then inside, they asked if anyone wanted to do take out. "It's another 40 minutes if you don't do takeout" the guy said, so I raised my hand and put in an order.

I ordered three things, figuring I could sample a range of items and keep leftovers in the fridge. Also got an order of guacamole and chips. When I got home, I was shocked to see a normal serving of chips but two tiny plastic containers (something like 2 tablespoons each worth) of guacamole. First up was the carnitas soup--I enjoyed this. Just the right amount of kick, fresh avocado, onions, and spicy meat. Very good (not outstanding, but definitely very good). Then I tried the cochinita pibil sandwich. The pibil was great, the baguette excellent, but somehow the whole was just "very good." Finally, I sampled the cubano sandwich--Bayless' take on the cuban sandwich. It was ok, but give me a 'real' cuban sandwich any day.

In all, it was fine, though pricey. Glad I tried it; I wouldn't wait again in line for it. If I were in the area, and there were no line, it would be fine and enjoyable. But as others have said, you'll probably get better at the places in Pilsen, for about 1/2 the price.

Mike Sula discusses both Xoco and Mercadito in today's (10/22/09) Chicago Reader: http://tinyurl.com/yzsj8pl

I enjoyed a late lunch at Xoco and color this groupie impressed. Shortly past 2pm, there was no line and no waiting for a seat. I ordered the soup of the day (which appear to be available only until 3pm and are a different entity than the caldos) - butternut squash with smoked chicken - as well as the pepito (Braised Tallgrass shortribs, caramelized onion, artisan Jack cheese, black beans, pickled jalapenos -- though I couldn't taste/discern any black beans, come to think of it). The soup was outstanding, with a really great backbone of spice that was perfect for this dreary day and that just kept building and building. The sandwich came out a few minutes later and it was luscious, beefy, cheesy and pretty much anything you could want out of a hot sandwich. Pickeld jalepenos were a great accent and contrasted nicely with the fatty beef.

As far as price... yeah, I won't be going there every week. Maybe a few times a month, and even then, only after the 'prime time' lunch rush is over. Which isn't to say it wasn't worth it - the soup was $4 (exceptionally fair) and the sandwich was $12. Same leage as the sandwiches at Hopleaf, Goose Island or any other casual eatery. Granted, you get real table service at these places and a proper side dish. Still, the sandwich was so filling I doubt I would have even eaten anything else.

Take out is now an option according to a sign on the door, but only during breakfast hours and after 3pm.

From a 2002 Sun-Times profile of Rick:

"My brother was valedictorian of his class and good at every sport," says Bayless, rolling his eyes, as every younger sibling has at one time or another when discussing his family's first-born.

"He was Mr. Perfect, editor of the school paper ... big scholarship to Vanderbilt. Meanwhile, I was in the bottom third of my class."

"We were so different growing up," he says, "that it was like we were from different families."

And unlike the garden variety sibling rivalries that mellow and become the stuff of dinner table jokes later in life, this one has continued.

"He lived six blocks from my restaurant," Bayless says of his brother, who left Chicago last summer, "and he ate there one time in three years."

So even Rick thinks Skip is a tool.

tem wrote:So even Rick thinks Skip is a tool.

Heck, Skip B even makes Mike Lupica seem charming.

=R=

Went to Xoco yesterday specifically for the caldos, which haven't really been discussed here. I arrived at 3, and no, the line was not out the door, but ran down the length of the wall. Granted, I'm not the most patient person, but this felt like I was stuck in gridlocked traffic. The line inched along the wall for 25 minutes, the worst part being was when I was standing 2 feet from the counter where I'd place my order, only three people ahead of me, and the line ground to a halt for ten minutes -- so close, yet so far away. (Incidentally, Bayless has tweeted numerous times to various folks that the line moves "fast." I wouldn't consider this to be a fast moving line by any stretch.) Maybe a Friday isn't the best time to go, but I thought I'd be safer by going at 3. There was an expediter, who monitored the room and did a great job finding you a seat and making sure that you got your food within a few minutes of seating.

So, I settled on the short rib caldo, and it was so delicious, broth deeply layered with flavor, tender short rib, firm zucchini and roasted potato. It was such a soothing, well-balanced bowl that, in the words of Burt, "like a dumbass,"* I'd wait in that stupid line again for another bowl of soup. As an aside, the overwhelming majority of folks were ordering tortas -- not caldos -- even though they were available. Time permitting, I'm very happy to sample a few more caldos before I move on to tortas.


Short Rib Red Chile Caldo (Braised Tallgrass shortribs, red chile broth, roasted vegetables, epazote, wild arugula, lime)


Azteca Hot Chocolate

The hot chocolate was good, best in the area, but does not hold a candle to Mindy Segal's versions at the aptly named, Hot Chocolate, bean-to-cup schtick notwithstanding at Xoco.

As this was going to be my lunch/dinner, I stopped into Frontera before Xoco for a "snack" and a Topolo (or two). I ordered the flautas de puerca, a skimpy portion for the price (the portion was fine, dish could have been $2-3 cheaper). The pork was good-quality and had a funky porky flavor, but it was barely seasoned, and the accompanying Campeche-style salsa definitely veered toward the bland side and no hints of the habanero or pickled onion mentioned on the menu. Perhaps this is Mexican, blanded down for tourists. But I have a working theory -- yet to be tested -- that you could get a better meal at Xoco than at Frontera.

*From his appearance on "No Reservations: Chicago."

went yesterday, before David Gray:

I really liked XOCO. We tried to get into Frontera Grill at 6PM on a Thursday, and even though they only take limited reservations and there were only two people waiting at the wait area, we were quoted 1 1/2 to 2 hours for 2 PEOPLE. Wow. So, we went to Hub 51 which was good and had tons of seating. Came back to XOCO for dessert. Stood in line maybe 20 minutes - which was fine, we had time to kill before David Gray. Got the Aztec Chocolate and my wife got the Cafe Con Leche, plus we both got orders of 3 churros each for a total of $14 after tax. To me that's a GREAT deal. We couldn't even finish our churros we were so full. I'd definitely recommend this place for dessert. I can't speak for the entrees but they looked awesome.

Be ready to wait. They seat on a basis of tables being open, which makes sense. Since you wouldn't want to get your food and have to stand around with it waiting for a table to open up. That way you're only waiting in line, not waiting holding food. You get a number when you have a space open, then you just go to it after they take your order and they bring it out once ready.

Check it out, Bayless is awesome. Hope to try Frontera soon. Maybe on a Tuesday?



Churros and Aztec Ground Chocolate

We walked into Xoco today at 11:30 with our fingers crossed, and were happy to see we were 6th in line (four people waiting, two already at the registers). Just under 10 minutes later, we were seated at the counter along the north wall, sipping a watermelon lime agua fresca (the agua del dia) and an Azteca hot chocolate - both were excellent. The Azteca has been covered thoroughly in this thread already, so I'll just say that it definitely lives up to the hype. The watermelon lime agua fresca was very refreshing, a nice (but in no way overpowering) fresh lime zing with a subtle watermelon sweetness.

We started by sharing a bowl of the soup of the day - I wish I'd paid better attention, but don't remember exactly what it was. Either way, it was nice. A rich, red broth, some small bits of chicken, some cubed bits of something or other. Nice, but nothing ridiculously amazing. We also split an order of chips & salsa...we were initially brought chips & guacamole, when we pointed out the discrepancy we were given cups of the green & red salsas in addition to the guac and told not to worry about it. I thought the red salsa was a bit too subtle for my tastes, but the green salsa had a very nice fresh cilantro flavor to it. I found the guac to be rather bland, but I like mine with more spice & acidity (I'm spoiled by my wife's top-notch homemade guac).

For our mains, we split a Pepito and a Cochinita Pibil. Again, both have been discussed in this thread already (especially the latter), and I completely agree with the positive reviews. The bread was excellent, appropriately soft, chewy & crusty, the meats perfectly cooked & generously portioned, and the various toppings delivered on flavor. I would encourage Rick Bayless to add the Cochinita Pibil's habanero salsa to his empire of bottled offerings - I would happily keep a bottle in the fridge and add it to just about everything. Its in-your-face acidity and heat are right up my alley.

Our total after tax was $40.14, which isn't too ridiculous...$20/head for a drink, an appetizer & a filling sandwich is right in line with the countless lunchtime offerings in the River North/Loop area, especially considering the quality. $20 is way more than I'd be willing to spend on a daily basis, but I could see popping in once or twice a month for a leisurely splurge of a lunch.

30 min. wait in line starting at about 6:00 tonight. Everything was fantastic, down to the Three Floyds Alpha King in the beer cooler. The cochinita pibil torta was outstanding. I suspect that you can't go wrong on this menu.

That said, our party of four could have used some instruction on how to navigate the restaurant. And we ended up sitting four abreast at a long snack bar in the back of the building. Slight annoyances, but the food took center stage.

Rolled up at around 7ish. Line was rather long, nearly out the door. Thought the place would be relatively quiet for dinner, but that was clearly not the case.

BryanZ wrote:Rolled up at around 7ish. Line was rather long, nearly out the door. Thought the place would be relatively quiet for dinner, but that was clearly not the case.

I walked by the restaurant at approx. 6:30 p.m. Friday night and the line was long, almost out the door - and I would have estimated the wait at 30-45 minutes to order (plus maybe 15 minutes to be served). There looked to be some open seating in the rear, though. To order more quickly at dinner time and to get a seat easily, I think the time block of 4:30 - 5:30 (Weekdays) is when it's best to show up - from what I've been observing.