Made my first visit to Sun Wah last night as but one member of the rather large LTH party in the back of the room. The space is large. That much is indisputable. I'm not sure I would call it attractive. Let me crib that statement. It's a looker when compared to traditional Chinese restaurants--much more modern--but it's not exactly going to win interior design awards and certainly won't ever be called cozy.
I enjoyed my meal quite a bit, but I think it had the potential to be better. I'll address this more fully later, but I'd call the food on the plate the output of a Good Neighborhood Restaurant, not a Great one. For one, I found temperatures to be slightly problematic. The dishes served hot were soulful, rich, and delicious. Those that had been allowed to cool before serving might've been called tired and or greasy. The chicken was the perfect illustration of how a relatively simple dish, cooked and served properly, can become the highpoint of a meal. I liked the faintly sweet/bitter flavor profile and deep mahogany color. Conversely, the roasted pork--among my favorite foods, period--fell a bit short because the skin hadn't crisped up quite enough in the cooking and seemed to have been chopped, plated, and left out for too long before reaching the table. I fully understand that Chinese roasted meats are often served at room temperature, but in this case, imperfect cooking and imperfect serving augmented each other to ill-effect.
I think a lot of these issues come back to less-than-optimal staffing/organizational decisions. I will say, flat out, the restaurant is criminally understaffed. For the majority of the night it wasn't just inconvenient to flag down a server but outright impossible. This should never ever ever ever be the case. I'm used to surly/indifferent waitstaff at Chinese restaurants, but the staff ought to at least be efficient and simply
has to be available. It should not take 10+ minutes to get a plate of steamed buns. Not only is waiting for the item frustrating, but the wait time allows the food already on the table more time cool and degrade. Requests for water should not have to be made in the first place, much less forgotten after multiple requests. Plates should be bussed and not stacked atop each other and left at the table. These service issues surely roll into and contribute to some of the issues with the food I already mentioned. Don't get me wrong, Kelly seems like a super nice and capable young woman, but there are huge improvements to be made in the service department if Sun Wah wants to be a Serious Restaurant and not just a good spot for Chinese roasted meats.
Among the other food we had, there wasn't really a clunker in the bunch. Perhaps the weakest dish was the soup whose broth was rather flat. Everything else was tasty, just some items could have been better. The salt-pepper baby squid was a cool dish, just a bit light on both salt and pepper to my tastes. Similarly, I wanted more seasoning on the ribs. Yes, they were addictive but could have used just a bit more punch. The duck was delicious, but the carving was a bit haphazard, and the dish was greasier than other Peking duck preparations I've had. Admittedly the majority of my experience with Peking duck has been in fine-dining restaurants, so perhaps comparison here isn't entirely appropriate. Despite some of these minor issues I think this restaurant can also put out food that is unexpectedly good. The relatively simple baby bok choy and duck fried rice dishes were nice laginappes that showed a deft hand at the wok.
The meal was a fun one. Got to try out an LTH mainstay, consume copious amounts of roasted and fried fatty four-legged beast (and even eat some veggies and fish, too), meet some interesting new people, hear more than a couple stories about Chicago hookers. The meal was also quite affordable, $30 including tax and tip. What more could one want in an evening? With that said, I'm not swooning over this place yet. Too many details need to be fixed before I can give my unrequited stamp of approval. I fully intend to go back--am actually thinking of planning a group meal for some co-workers as I think the mix between authentic yet accessible is quite appealing--and want to taste a broader swath of the menu.
Flickr set with iPhone pics here,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10227202@N00/sets/72157622637607139/